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 Post subject: Distributor problems
PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2005 10:01 am 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2005 11:17 am
Posts: 353
Location: BRISBANE
Hello all...

Looking for advice....


I have had problems of late with my dizzy... I have had the points replaced. But still the car was missing and would not accelerate smoothly. I also had problems sitting on 60ks without it missing every now and again. I took it in to get fixed and had a second-hand but apparently very good distributor hooked up with a vacuum advance..

I did notice a slight drop in performance after this?.. But the car was running smoothly again?.. 3 weeks later and I am having the same problems ?.

I have been told that an electronic dizzy is the way to go? but my mechanic advises me that a genuine one should be fine?.. I have spent $350 trying to fix this problem to no avail?

Has anyone else out there had this problem and if so what did u find to be your solution..

Thanks
DJ

Ps I have a
- GT 40 coil
- 9 mm Custom made spark plug leads with new cap and new spark plugs
- 1430cc with twin 1.5SU?s


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2005 10:33 am 
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1275cc
1275cc
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Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2005 4:02 pm
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Location: Queanbeyan
How old are the leads, depending on what brand they are some of them last very little time and can be suspect even when new, the slight drop in performance will be caused by the vac dizzy not having enough total advance without the vac hooked up. I doubt if it is the dizzy causing the problem unless you have been unlucky enough to get a real dud. Check the leads and cap and also check the fuel bowls on the carbs for crap and the filter if you have one also check the dashpots for oil

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2005 10:41 am 
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1098cc
1098cc

Joined: Wed Nov 24, 2004 10:23 am
Posts: 1488
Location: Armidale, NSW
Make sure you are not fouling the plugs either (ie the carb is running rich) it may not be your dizzy at all. :wink:

This would account for why it went OK for a while and then deteriorated again. maybe... :oops: :? :D
<edit>Opps: no it wouldn't cause you didn't say that you changed plugs :roll: but something to check anyway and if you didn't change your plugs I would as this lets you start from a known base and as said check the leads and check the contacts on the rotor if it didn't get changed as well (a bit of steel wool or something similar to clean it up)

Did you check your timing as well when you changed over the dizzy :?:

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Last edited by fuzzy-hair-man on Thu Dec 01, 2005 10:46 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2005 10:44 am 
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1275cc
1275cc
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Joined: Mon Sep 19, 2005 4:57 pm
Posts: 3635
Location: Gulgong
Also check that the stuff insde the distributoris correctly fitted. That is that the points screw is tight, the condensor is properly earthed and thatthe points are properly insulated.

Then recheck the points gap again when the engine is both cold and then warm. Some times the little plastic but that sits on the cam in the distibutor becomes soft when it gets hot and changes the dynamics of the points.

The distributor was the last thing touched and its more likely to be something related than a whole distributor unit. Dont blindly trust the mechanic or whatever. They get distracted at times the same as anyone else and forget attention to detail. And they buy comsumables on price as well


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2005 5:33 pm 
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the King of Bling
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Joined: Thu Jun 03, 2004 11:11 pm
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Location: Baulkham Hills
Can you check if the the Coil is a GT-40R

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2005 9:46 pm 
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848cc
848cc
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Joined: Sun Aug 07, 2005 4:17 pm
Posts: 372
Location: Melbourne, Australia
go electronic, there is a howto here on N12 Pulsar 1600 dizzys here somwhere, good article, even if it isnt your problem, it will fix the problem you will have later with the lucas junk that is on there now

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2005 9:55 pm 
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ET 13.457 seconds , OH YEAH !!!!
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Just replace your plug leads for the sake of it..what's the deal with the custom ones? Go get some BOSCH leads from supercheap $5.99ea..

Electronic Ign. is the way to go, even if not your problem currently..

Check your plug gaps...

Oil in your carby dashpot?

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 Post subject: Argh!
PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2005 7:50 am 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Thu Jan 06, 2005 10:48 pm
Posts: 141
Location: Canberra ACT
I've got the same problem :( and the problem started when i replaced the air filter from std to K&N
List of things currently checked/replaced:
replaced coil - GT40 (not R)
checked dashpot oil (topped up as well)
adjusted the points
replaced plugs
attempted to tune the carby (not me, mechanic seems to be running better)

soon to be replaced:
points
tuned properly
leads? should I they are about 12 months old if not longer :?:
anything else? i might be getting a carby kit today?

recently replaced and they dont look worn:
dizy cap
rotor button

any ideas, any at all?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2005 9:28 am 
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1275cc
1275cc
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Joined: Mon Jan 24, 2005 4:02 pm
Posts: 3477
Location: Queanbeyan
Try changing back to standard filter and see if the problem still exists, how much clearance do you have around the K&N filter, have you checked you have the right needle for the K&N, I would think that the standard needle may be a little lean for the improvement in breathing with the K&N

Jon

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2005 4:00 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Thu Jan 06, 2005 10:48 pm
Posts: 141
Location: Canberra ACT
nah, i havent changed it back yet.
really? the filter could change it that much?

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 Post subject: Re: Argh!
PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2005 5:41 pm 
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1360cc
1360cc
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Joined: Sun Apr 11, 2004 11:32 am
Posts: 12390
Location: Sthrn HiLoLands, NSW, Australia
quote="KennyKix"

replaced coil - GT40 (not R)...probably not your problem

checked dashpot oil (topped up as well)...hope you left about 3/8inch from the top :?:

adjusted the points...but what did they look like :?: if they are burn't and pitted...well you are sort of wasting your time adjusting them

replaced plugs..got the gaps right first :?:

attempted to tune the carby (not me, mechanic seems to be running better)...fiddling with the carb settings when you probably have another problem id just chasing your tail :roll:

dizy cap...make sure it is fairly new and in good shape, then you know where you stand

rotor button...ditto

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2005 7:33 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2005 11:17 am
Posts: 353
Location: BRISBANE
Hey guys n girls

Thanks for your Ideas..

I have had it looked at and this is where I am now...

There where a few problems,,

I have been told that the timing was way out also the twin carbs needed tuning and the magnets were sticking in the dizzy..... :cry:

But I am still having the problem of not being able to sit at 60km with out a jerk happening in the engine...... I have been told that it is the cam... and that if I change the diff I will get rid of this problem due to the fact that It will bring up the revs and bring the cam in just before 60k so the car is comfortably on the cam while at that speed....or I change the cam all together?????

What should I do?
Let me know what u thing

Cheers
Dan


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2005 7:37 pm 
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ET 13.457 seconds , OH YEAH !!!!
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Joined: Sun Sep 19, 2004 8:35 am
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Location: Somewhere Around Sydney
Provide us with more info if you can?

What size diff you are running, i'm guessing you don't know what cam either..

What RPM does your car do a 100Km..or even 60km/h in 4th, what rpm are you doing?

It would be a pretty radical cam or high diff ratio (combination of the two if that is what it is i would be guessing) to not sit comfortably at 60km/h...

You kind of need to know what you have to know where you should be going..

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2005 10:14 pm 
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848cc
848cc

Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2005 11:17 am
Posts: 353
Location: BRISBANE
Bored and stroked 1430cc
- Omega Pistons
- Cooper S rods
- New RE13 Camshaft with duplex timing belt and lifters
- New oil pump
- Everything is balanced
- 12G940 head with oversized intake and exhaust valves
- Brass valve stem inserts reamed to suit each valve
- Extensive porting and polishing
- Head was fully reconditioned 1000 Km ago
- Reconditioned rocker gear
- Motor was striped, checked and rebuilt 2 months ago when new cam was fitted
- Gearbox is late model 4 speed synchro Rod change box
- Diff is 3.44/1 open
Twin 1.5" SUs on police manifold. Were rebuilt 2 yrs ago
- K&N filters
- LCB extractors with RC40 muffler


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2005 10:26 pm 
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1275cc
1275cc
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Joined: Mon Sep 19, 2005 4:57 pm
Posts: 3635
Location: Gulgong
Gee - with all those modifications there is a number of things that could be causing the problem. Its not the cam shaft, its not a reciprocating part. Could be anyhting from loss of fuel pressure (or volume) to a sticking seat in a carby to a condensor in a dizzy.

Since you are so deep into this motor - put it on a dyno with a competant engine analyst and let them sort the problems. Yeah, i know, easy for me to say coz its not my money but you have a very sophisticated motor and something is not right. None of us are going to correctly guess the problem.

Is it just simply fouling plugs because are the wrong heat range for the dynamics of this motor ???


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