I just had to take a pic of these before the paint goes on, cause they'll never look
this good again! I'll get a pic up when they are painted one day.
I think I'll invest in a bead blasting booth now!

OK, so 4 days later the calipers look like they need another blasting , so I'll buff em up tonight and get a coat of paint on them.
I'll follow the Doc's tip of fitting the seals and pistons before painting, there's just
a couple of things I'd like an answer to, if anyone knows.

1. What torque wrench setting will I need for the bolts that hold together the two
parts of the caliper (there are four)?
2. Should I put brake fluid in the groove where the fluid seal goes, or only on the edge that touches the piston?
3. Should I put brake fluid under the dust seal to help get it in, or is it to stay dry?
4. Is there an order for fitting, eg. fluid seal, then piston, then dust seal, or what?

Thanks.

coat everything in brake fluid.
first fit piston seal.
then slip the dust seal over the piston so that the part that sits in the goove of the caliper is clear of the piston end.
push seal into groove, and making sure that the whole seal is seated.
push piston into bore.
be very careful not to cock the piston and force it in,
it will be very tight.

I found it out the hard way

btw it looks like the bore has been bead blasted to me.... not a good thing if it is.

Why is bead blasting the bores bad?
I had it done very lightly just to tidy it up.

Bores will be fine if piston fits in OK (should be loose).
The sealing face is on the piston, not the bore..... the seals are static.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

hmm, my pistons need a fair push to get them in, what should i be doing to them?? am do i need to do anything to them to make them fit better?

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Potato

Blasting the bores is bad.

They are like engine bores and need to be honed to specific tollerance. Under a microscope the blasted finish is really poreous and a hone is peak and trough. I suggest going to a brake specialist to see if it can be saved.

good luck as the last thing you want is a siezed piston when coming into a corner hot!

I took em to a brake specialist for a clean up, and they did the bead blasting.

PM sent.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hey, I've got the piston and seal in place, the dust seal is yet to go on.
Should that be covered in brake fluid as well, or is it supposed to stay dry?
Thanks.

Is it the 4 pot rubber one? I would put a bit of rubber grease on it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Both seals are rubber, the outer having the metal retainer on it.
Rubber grease ay?
What would happen if it came in contact with the brake fluid?
Just checking to see it wouldn't create sme sort of high corrosive and
bad smelling goo.

OK so it's like my S I guess- I thought it was a rubber boot on them, like Jap cars..

I use Dow Corning silicone grease if I can get it, or rubber grease, or brake fluid.
Rubber grease you can get from brake shops and is designed for brake caliper and wheel cylinder assembly.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Are they all the same as far as heat resistance goes?
Sorry for all the questions, I just want to get it right first go, so it
lasts a while.

A light smear of silicone grease is best if you can get it.
Last time I did mine I just used brake fluid as it's all I had handy, no problems.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.