ok, so ive brought a 1220 motor...in pieces
its an ex race engine, the block is all good looking, no wear ridges, i can still see the hone marks, its been pocketed.
i have a 12g940 head that has been recond.(standard)
lightened, balanced shot peened rods
the imp pistons are all good and look to have been balanced as well.
(can get gudgens and rings from impwerks)
so,
ive got to grind the crank to 10 under
ill use the 1275 cam that came with it, its all good, dont know its specs.
ill be using a spider drive oil pump
i suppose i should lighten and ballance the flywheel.
then put it on top of the rebuilt remote box with centre pickup.

ill use an hs4 and a polished metro inlet with extractors and 2" straight through pipe that i currently run on my (slightly stuffed) 1275

now, is ther anyone who knows much about 1220's out there?
im wondering what sort of pover i can expect to get out of this little lump,i know itl hve bags of torque. i know its really going to depend on the cam.

ill use the car for some city driving but mostly for travelling between auckland and whangarei(m in nz) so she sits at 100k for 2 hours at a time, so ill be running a 2.9diff(im a student so cant afford to rev the **** out of it all the time)

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speed costs....how fast do you want to go...

Slightly Offtopic...Could you please post some pics of the Block Pocketing ?

Cheers
J

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I've built 4 1220 motors altogether.
1st one was in my 850 back in 1968, with twin HS4s and a 544 cam and 940 head it did mid 16s for the 1/4 (but 145x10 tyres were all crap back then).

Power? I dunno- but when I finally blew it and fitted a 1275S short block instead, with same cam head carbs etc, it went slower.

Last 2 motors used late Sprite blocks and went into 2 Morris Minors.

Problem with a 1220 now is getting decent Imp pistons without paying an arm, a leg and your firstborn.

<edit> BTW, Imp pistons on a longstroke 1100 crank do have a habit of losing their circlips (& the pin then shags the bore).. Last 2 motors I built I used PTFE `buttons' instead.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

i can try get pics of the pocketiin, cant promise though.

thanks drmini.
i hope these imp pistos hold together, they llok fine,and havent done much work, have also been balanced...thanks for the heads up on th clips, i will definatly look into that, ill ask the imp guys if they have problems. new pistons are one of those nasty "P.O.A" prices. rings are similar price to mini ones, which is nice.
i just fonnd a 12g202 head with double springs in this lot, in real good nic...$170nz is going a long way this week. hahaha

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speed costs....how fast do you want to go...

circlips in IMPS don't give much prob, their stroke is only 61mm or so.
My bro' used to rally them.
But, when you ask them to go up & down 83.7mm, and rev the crap out of them, (like 8K+) they can & do come out. All to do with piston speed.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I think I can safely say that there wouldn't be too many Aussies all that familiar with the ins and outs of A+ donks.....however......

http://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/index.php?act=idx

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"Show me the Mini!"

ill definatly go to buttons, i not keen on breaking this one. i think ill still limit it to 7k, i didnt think itd make it to 8k with that stroke

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speed costs....how fast do you want to go...

It'll make it past 8K (mine did 8500 often), but the crank won't last at that speed. I put 8 cracks in a new 1100 crank in 20,000 miles..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

ouch
NOTE TO SELF: make sure they crack test the crank before grinding....

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speed costs....how fast do you want to go...

whats a good rev range for an 1100 crank etc?
this is why i like 998's better

Revving an 1100 to ~7K is OK, no problem. Ask Graham Russell...
Vizard is wrong here- they are stronger than you think.

I do like 998s too, but you are giving away at least 5-8 ft/lb torque... which is more useful in a road car than sheer rpm (and less HP) is.

read this artice by Keith Calver too- http://www.minimania.com/web/SCatagory/ ... ticleV.cfm

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Has anyone put a 3.1 drive ratio in their 1100
say if it had a slightly worked head, cam exhaust would it pull this ratio ok i find my 1100 which is stock as at the moment seems to run at of legs quicked then my worn 998 almost

oh yeah it does have a late model 998 box under it

hmmmm

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that is a really good read, i cant wait to get the 1220 going now.....hmmmm who can i steel money from.

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speed costs....how fast do you want to go...

lol
54hp at the wheels is pretty good

how do you make a 1220?

and can you make an a series bore/stroke square and does that result in revs