since i'll soon be disassembling my baby and finding lots of vintage 1966 bolts i was thinking of replacing them with stainless equivalents
atleast for body mounted bits (subframes etc)...good idea? bad idea?
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| Author: | inazuma_x [ Wed Oct 19, 2005 5:49 pm ] |
| Post subject: | bolts bolts and more bolts |
since i'll soon be disassembling my baby and finding lots of vintage 1966 bolts i was thinking of replacing them with stainless equivalents atleast for body mounted bits (subframes etc)...good idea? bad idea?
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| Author: | Stuwey [ Wed Oct 19, 2005 10:58 pm ] |
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Good idea, but it'll be damned expensive for stainless bits. How about just the usual CAD plated stuff, and a little bit of Loctite anti-sieze on each one when you put 'em in? |
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| Author: | awdmoke [ Thu Oct 20, 2005 12:57 am ] |
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Yeah, I'm using mostly stainless steel socket head cap screws. But that's also for the BLING factor  
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Thu Oct 20, 2005 6:52 am ] |
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Be careful. Most SS bolts are inferior strength to the usual Grade 5 or Grade 8 ones used. Break and stretch easy. If you must use SS make then Unbrako socket head ones... 
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| Author: | inazuma_x [ Thu Oct 20, 2005 8:58 am ] |
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drmini in aust wrote: Be careful. Most SS bolts are inferior strength to the usual Grade 5 or Grade 8 ones used. Break and stretch easy.
If you must use SS make then Unbrako socket head ones... ok...so here i am at a fastener's shop (eg. Queensland Fastners) and i have a handful of rusty bolts in my hand from my mini...what grade do i ask for? what do i say to them so they dont go "huh???"? |
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| Author: | minimechanic [ Thu Oct 20, 2005 10:01 pm ] |
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remember anything structural go for the high tensile's. Damn expensive i know.... Actually they're all expensive Or am i cheap...... |
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| Author: | awdmoke [ Thu Oct 20, 2005 10:16 pm ] |
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minimechanic wrote: remember anything structural go for the high tensile's. Yes. The draft regulations have specified that all "highly stressed" joints use high tensile fasteners, and that they can not be electroplated. These regs will be in place by the time you go to get your car approved. minimechanic wrote: Actually they're all expensive
Or am i cheap...... You're just cheap
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Thu Oct 20, 2005 10:23 pm ] |
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And the reason for avoiding electroplating is, it can cause hydrogen embrittlement. Weakens the bolts. I bought some grade 8 bolts for a Mini crownwheel a while back, knew this but could only get plated ones. On 2 of them, the threads peeled off at 60ft/lb torque. Luckily I had a couple spare....
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| Author: | Mick [ Thu Oct 20, 2005 10:24 pm ] |
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You would be absolutely shocked what 30 dollars and a zinc platers shop could do. You get a choice of silver or gold coloured plating (or a mix if you would like to live on the wild side). I would pay 30 bucks to have them degreased alone, but they look absolutely great once done, and the nuts all spin on with ease as well. Just chuck everything in the bucket (bolts, washers, springs, brackets, you name it) and hand it over. Marvellous stuff and cheap as chips too. |
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| Author: | awdmoke [ Thu Oct 20, 2005 10:34 pm ] |
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Quote: The draft regulations have specified that all "highly stressed" joints use high tensile fasteners, and that they can not be electroplated.
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| Author: | danidad [ Thu Oct 20, 2005 11:09 pm ] |
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ok how does the british bolt grading identification go... its to do with the lines on the bolt head that semi radiate out toward the edges.. more lines = higher grade? a good fastener shop should be able to read and supply similar bolts or a suitable equivilent |
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| Author: | awdmoke [ Thu Oct 20, 2005 11:17 pm ] |
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Not just British, ISO. Three lines means Grade 8.8 (structural). Sometimes they just stamp 8.8 on them instead. The nuts must also have the three marks! |
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| Author: | inazuma_x [ Thu Oct 20, 2005 11:18 pm ] |
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danidad wrote: ok how does the british bolt grading identification go... its to do with the lines on the bolt head that semi radiate out toward the edges.. more lines = higher grade? a good fastener shop should be able to read and supply similar bolts or a suitable equivilent
i disassembled and restored a 1901 forge blower last year (took me weeks coz 1/2 of it had seized) but QLD fasteners had no trouble finding replacement bolts in stainless which i was happy about
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| Author: | drmini in aust [ Fri Oct 21, 2005 7:20 am ] |
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3 lines on hex bolt heads means grade 5, and 6 lines means grade 8.
No lines means they are crap.... and probably Chinese made these days. I can strip these with a Panasonic cordless impact driver... 
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| Author: | inazuma_x [ Fri Oct 21, 2005 9:03 am ] |
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drmini in aust wrote: 3 lines on hex bolt heads means grade 5, and 6 lines means grade 8.
No lines means they are crap.... and probably Chinese made these days. I can strip these with a Panasonic cordless impact driver... <stupid question start> so the higher the grade number the better the bolt? <stupid question end> |
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