Chris wrote:
I haven't read the whole thread so if this has been mentioned discard it. If you are going to bore it, find a torque plate and make sure that you have the main caps in the block at the correct torque also. This will give you better and truer bores. After you have found a torque plate find someone with a Sunnen hone and do it on that. There are no better machines than Sunnens. Drive 200 kms if you have to but use a Sunnen. A torque plate is a plate that is bolted to the block with the head bolts and has holes in it a bit bigger than the bores. When a head is put on the bores distort and by using a torque plate the bores are machined as they would be with the cylinder head bolted down. It means true clearances on the pistons all the way from top to bottom. Putting the main caps on also trues up the bores though to a lesser extent. BTW anyone got a torque plate for a 1275? If not I'll have to get one made. It is a fairly expensive piece of equipment. I am sure Vizard went into this some where, some time. CCC perhaps?
Chris,
I always thought torque plates were gospel too. On V8s, probably is true. But Keith Calver debunked this one recently for A series, he had done documented trials in UK that have shown on an A series it makes no difference.
<edit> but, it won't hurt to use one!!
Mick,
Too much trouble to do that with a head, and chambers are too wide anyhow.
All you need is a nice piece of 1" or thicker steel plate, surface ground both sides.
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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.
