The funny thing about a Clubman is the huge grill that a lot of air is entering.
If you were to open a hole anywhere in the engine bay behind the grill which way do you think the air would go, in or out? You would end up with air coming out the scoop from the engine bay (and blowing oil leaks onto the windscreen!)
Also the base of the windscreen is in a low pressure spot, the air is trying to go over the roof so all you are getting at the bottom of the screen is low pressure, turbulent air.

plus u want the air to go through the radiator not out the top of the bonnet...
unless u are running a front mount- still i doubt the need for it

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Carl
Previous Owner & Driver of 1 Morris "It's not a Cooper!!" 850

I don't need it but was just a thought, that's why I ask here in the forum..

start listing, champ...

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Start here, a bit of light reading...
http://www.minimania.com/_A_Technical_Information.cfm

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Air Scoop: You will be surprised to find out that when the car is running at speed (which is when the scoop would come into effect anyway) the air at the back of the bonnet near the firewall is nearly the same temp as the front of the car. If you don't believe me why do they have heated intakes?

I bet all it does it generate more drag.

Cushy: Once your done reading that whole list, try here:

http://www.calverst.com/CC110F.htm
http://www.harveycrane.com/Secrets.htm

and then finally here:

www.ausmini.com

Then when you are ready, you can start building!

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

those links aren't really what i'm after


how about a do's and don'ts

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Building an engine is not just about do's and don't, it's the whole package. Knowing what you want to achieve in the end, the theory and know how to achieve it then go out and build it.

There are alot of compromises. If it's a race motor, do this, if it's a roadie, don't need to do that but this will do...

Do you want me to read those articles out loud to you??

Read my rebuild thread, there is a whole bunch of good stuff in there... the list would be a whole forum long...

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

*sigh*

no need to be patronising....

i didn't say they were too hard to read..... i said they weren't what i was after...

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I will list some for you then if you really can't be bothered reading those posts/articles:

1) Use LMM grease under the head and on the threads of rod bolts and mains bolts before torquing them up
2) Don't skimp, Redistrip you block, it's worth it
3) Keep things as clean as possible. When it's spotless, clean it again. Keep things "unexposed" to dust and moisture.
4) Use a good engine lube when you rebuild, put some on all bearing surfaces, cam followers, cam lobes, etc.
5) LMM between valve and tappets
6) LMM on all seals at assembly stage
7) When dry assembling, be careful not to dammage the bearing surfaces, try using tape to tape up bearing cap locators etc. Use plenty of assembly lube

tired of typing now...

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

now we're talking....


two things..

what's LMM?

and

don't forget to tell us why you should do things.

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LMM is Castrol molygrease. Handy for engine building. I use it on the cam and lifters too instead of cam lube, it doesn't all drip off whilst motor is sitting.

I'll add 1 very important item:
MARK the rod caps for EACH rod so you know which one they came off, and which way round. I've seen people build engines with them round the wrong way then wonder why it don't turn over, even with 2 batteries in series.. no, it was nobody here....

The tang on both bearing shells goes to the same side of the rod.

Likewise for the centre main cap.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

MORE MORE!!

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MORE???
1. If you don't know the history of the engine, many of which are 40+ years old now- and particularly if you are building it to have a rev, toss all the rod bolts away and buy new ones. Preferably ARPs for a bigbore, but you can use Unbrako socket head cap screws for smallbores.
2. Get the rods checked for straightness. You will be lucky if they are straight...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

yep... i want everything...

(and i have vizards book )

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