Klas I took the MPi fuel pressure straight from the RoverMEMS.pdf that I have. I have only a SPI system so I have to take the manual by its word. Here is an excerpt from page 14.7 of the Rover MEMS - MPi/SPi manual:


Jason, I think the bottom line is your MPi should be quite capable of supplying 2.5, 3 or more Bar if in good condition. You have an adjustable regulator, so 3 bar should be fine.

Jim

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'68 Morris Mini 1310 A+ (Now Sold!)

that doesn't surprise me. i have some Rover factory manuals, the newer they are, the more faults they contain. the worst i found it that they mislabeled the ignition wires at the coil pack from the MPi Mini in a way the engine won't run.

as nothing was invented for the mini but just took out of the companys parts bin they just used the same regulator as all other K Series engines. and it's printed with "3 bar" on it. ok, they are such high quality that Rover said they are ok if the pressure range is from 2.8 to 3.2 bar. may explain why some cars run great, and other not so much ...
maybe the 2.5 bar were a relict from the old Lucas EFi someone remembered

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Rover 214 atm ....

LOL. I'm not surprised. I think the main thing is that with Jason's proposed setup, with a good MPI pump he should be OK? Correct? I don't want to turn this thread into a big confusion for him, he's looking for help/validation on what should work.

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'68 Morris Mini 1310 A+ (Now Sold!)

What are the chances that Babes has an MPi tank? Almost all Rover gear in Aus is sourced
from Japan and 99% of Jap rovers are SPi.

Are there drop in replacement pumps for SPi tanks that will do 3 Bar?

M

Yes. MPI pump is a shoe in.

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'68 Morris Mini 1310 A+ (Now Sold!)

yes, correct.
i found an easy way to check what kind of pump you have, as they look the same. pump running and it draws around 3A its SPi, around 5A its MPi.
if you can pressure test it, SPi max out at 2.5 bar, MPi at 5 bar

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Rover 214 atm ....

it's good when someone with first hand experience pipes up

I have experience with my set up, with my parts, in my car, so as I said on the last page, I may be talking out of my arse

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

No. You had valid points. Getting to the right solution is some times harder.
It's over to Jason now.

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'68 Morris Mini 1310 A+ (Now Sold!)

Ok sorry for the slow reply guys, work has been hectic. Last night I checked what pressure my pump was putting out, I have an SPi tank and what I thought was MPi pump. I have a SARD adjustable regulator which when cranked up read 4 bar - 58 psi with the key on and pumping fuel.

Jim I will send you the ECU this week, do you need to know what injectors I will be using before doing your super high tech tweaking of the MS?

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1965 Riley Elf
1974 Ex Army Moke
1997 Rover Cooper
2002 JCW Cooper
2003 JCW Cooper S

Also my MAP sensor is off the supercharger manifold and i will be getting a bespoke fuel rail made, whats the best option with throttle body? I was going to just use the carb bottom as a throttle body and have a blanking plate made for the top of it. Maybe Im getting too full on and there is an existing bolt in throttle body I can use?

Im guessing I will be putting out 130-150 bhp at the flywheel so will need to research injectors.

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1965 Riley Elf
1974 Ex Army Moke
1997 Rover Cooper
2002 JCW Cooper
2003 JCW Cooper S

using a carb with a plate on the top will be a compromised solution as you'll always have disturbed airflow from the centre bit, and there isn't anywhere convenient to mount the throttle position sensor.

I'm using an N14 pulsar throttle body, and so is the guy doing the turbo in the gallery forum. Its a neat unit, return spring is mounted on one end of the shaft, and throttle position sensor is mounted at the other end. It's wide but short so nothing will poke upwards through your bonnet.



Guess more towards the 150+ range - michaelb made nearly 100 at the wheels from his with (what looked like to me) the mixture leaning off at less than 6000rpm. He's probably watching this thread with a lot of interest actually. Particularly the part where you mounted the carb somewhere sensible and went for a drive - that long pipe is just ridiculous

Two 550 to 600cc injectors should cover it, but as I said previously, my 440cc injectors are running almost to the point where they're being turned off before they're being turned on. I plan to play on the dyno tomorrow with staging and hopefully my mate has ordered in some 550's for me to replace the 440's I have in there now. I guess I'll update my build thread in mini mods with some of the results

If I was building my manifold again, I'd try to use Bosch EV14 style injectors. They seem to be the most readily available, everyone seems to be moving towards the same style, and would be the easiest to mount in a tight space.

Injector size calculator - http://www.smartfireinjectors.com/ebay/ ... chart.html

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

moved this into mini mods too

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Hello!

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1969 Cooper "S"
1967 Mini Deluxe
1973 Clubman Van (the fleet spare)
1978 ex 1275 LS ("Wizard" Eaton Supercharged)
2015 HSV GenF GTS(occasional drive & tow car)
2019 MINI F55 Cooper S

I like what this fella has done with his injectors, though as his dyno man found out, he really needed to have them set up so they were shooting straight down the ports. Side feed injectors might've fitted without cutting the firewall.



http://www.dutchysmini.com/supercharging.html

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

That guy has a pretty sweet setup. I can appreciate the work that has gone into it even though it didn't go as well as he would've initially hoped. Very nice mini and very nice build.

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"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina