On Barney, the top is to rear brakes and the bottom to front. There's a plug in the middle, maybe for brake fail switch?
Both these pipes go down to the proportion? valve on the firewall, then 1 down to front tee and the other to rear.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

The middle hole is for a brake fail switch, the late clubmans had the brake fail / hand brake warning lights fitted in the dash top just above the speedo. This switch is not needed, they are horendously expensive (About $60) when you consider you don't need it. This switch is operated by a piston travelling in the rear cylinder of your brake m/c, if the m/c is operating correctly the piston won't move, if 1/2 the m/c fails (one circuit) the piston will move, contact the switch and your dash light should illuminate.

When you come to bleed your brakes you will need to bleed front right / rear right together and front left / rear left together, otherwise you won't get any fluid flowing through.

Now that your have discovered that you need metric nipples you will have to have new brake lines manufactured. I can't say how much this will cost. When I replaced my brake lines the cost wasn't restrictive but getting it to a workshop to allow them to manufacture them to suit the car was too hard. The alternative is go and buy yourself a brake line flaring tool, mini tube cutter, a coil of brake line tubing and some metric ends. They are very easy to make. If you have old brake lines or some stiff wire you can always bend up a template and take this to the brake workshop and get them to make some up.

Thanks TooMany. I have a pipe bender as I had to do the fuel lines. I measured the lengths I needed and the guy made me up some brake lines some with metric ends and imperial at the other. I needed a few of these because I needed a line that goes to the clutch aswell and the Toyota ends are obviously metric but the clutch mc is imperial. V Cool.

5 lines cost me $50 pretty happy really.

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225hp atw on 14psi. 1/4 Mile no idea. Take one 1971 Mini Clubman, one Starlet GT Halfcut, Simmer over a warm MIG Welder, and Voila Minstar! www.mpdesign.id.au

Here's the ones on Barney the pretend S. The P/O ripped them from a Clubbie & put them on, I would have left it single line- good enough for a Cooper S, which is what the brakes on it are now.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Matt,

You have a dual-circuit proportioning valve on your Starlet. Use that.
Mine is green in colour with four fittings coming into it and sits on the firewall to the left of the heater inlets.

The thread connection for all brake fittings is the same as its BSP (I think?)

I intend to use my Starlet one with the Mini master cylinder and Mini booster.

Cheers,
Andrew

Dunno about Starlet brake threads.... but on a late Mini all the dual MC pipe connector threads, and those in the valve on the firewall are M10 fine.
Earlier Mini ones and those on all Mini wheel cylinders, are UNF threads, NOT BSP.
Pipe threads are never used on flare nuts in hydraulic work..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks Kevin,

Does that mean that the Mini being metric may mate with the Starlet which is metric?

Andrew

Andrew, yeah they do. I cut one off the end of one of the brake pipes of the starlet and it goes straight into the dual circuit mc connectors. The things is my clutch mc is mini so imperial and the hose connector for the clutch is also M10 fine so I had a pipe with the two different fittings put on it. Works like a charm.

Edit: The only thing mate is that your hoses to the calipers will need to be metric to. Mine are metric on the caliper end but imperial at the other. But given your getting new lines I guess you'll just make the whole thing metric hey...

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225hp atw on 14psi. 1/4 Mile no idea. Take one 1971 Mini Clubman, one Starlet GT Halfcut, Simmer over a warm MIG Welder, and Voila Minstar! www.mpdesign.id.au

Matt,

Excellent! Another problem sorted.
Now were cooking.

I was going to try and salvage some of the brake parts from the Starlet - e.g. lines and fittings and the proportioning valve etc. But some new stuff will definatley be needed, seeing as I am going to run a booster as well.

Kevin/Matt/Brad/Anyone - I have an ABS block and controller that was standard on my Starlet. How can I use this on the Mini. Is there a way to graft on the wheel sensors??

Mini with ABS - now wouldnt that be a treat!!

Andrew

Andrew you're running the ubiqitous metro 4 pot vented brakes aren't you. I think the ABS discussion has been had before with a negative outcome (I think Brad had the same idea????). Mate to mate I think your making the whole thing a little more complex than it has to be. Just my 2c.

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225hp atw on 14psi. 1/4 Mile no idea. Take one 1971 Mini Clubman, one Starlet GT Halfcut, Simmer over a warm MIG Welder, and Voila Minstar! www.mpdesign.id.au

Yeah Matt your probably right. But it would be lovely to have ABS - well its a Mini and it doesn't need that stuff - just a deft right foot.

I am running the 4-pots - should be plenty of breaking power.

Andrew

Well the reason I say it is that when I had mine setup perfectly, I could shift the rear wheels when stopping sharply from say 40kms. That's without a booster...

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225hp atw on 14psi. 1/4 Mile no idea. Take one 1971 Mini Clubman, one Starlet GT Halfcut, Simmer over a warm MIG Welder, and Voila Minstar! www.mpdesign.id.au