get 13 x 3.5's .. then it'll Look like a tractor aswell

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that would look awesome... maybe not

up back would be good.. "reduce weight" great for a khana anyway

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Expert in training

oh okies well I have to find somewhere in the middle then.

with 200kw at the wheels I need traction from somewhere. Sounds Best to just get 13*7's

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Baracade
Relationships! The only time you get to sleep with the enemy!
1972 US Export Moke in Bundaberg QLD

200fwkw

Dont forget if you go with the 13 x 7 performance wheels, your guards might have to be cut, well they had to be cut on my van

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If you want more inches, stroke it
Life's a garden.... Dig It!
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=20746

erm.. where are you getting 260hp from?

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Starlet Power hehehehe

but hopefully my gaurds wont have to be cut any more as I am already running 13*5.5

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Baracade
Relationships! The only time you get to sleep with the enemy!
1972 US Export Moke in Bundaberg QLD

maybe its got a spoiler

eheheh.. or a Jun BS ...er.. BL sticker

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My "New Blew" Targa Tasmania Rally mini is wearing a set of 13x6 superlites with Yoko 175x50x13" AO48R spec rubber bands & they are wicked!!!

traction masters!!!!!!!!

stick like sh!t to a blanket!!!!

& not stupidly big , but the wheels are still quite heavy (YUK!!!)

ii`m going back to ultra light weight 10" wheels, & sooper dooper lightweight brake assys,as that`s just the best thing to do,,,

all you guys fitting big bad ass wheels & tyres combos, well,,,,you might think they look good, but that`s about it,,,they might grip in a straight line(maybe if you have the right sticky compound, (maybe not tho)), but that`s about it,,,to get them to handle well,,,???,,,well...have fun,,,sports sedans with 13x8"/13x10" wheels & tyres only just get away with it cause they`re using lightweight canvas race bags & lightweight wheel rims & are not driving the dam things all day every day

I`m not bagging you at all,,,don`t get me wrong,,, i love the look of my mini when it had 13x7" things on, yeah, looks hot,,,but i spent soooo much time getting it to handle & it goes around corners like it`s on rails now,,,But!!! , i`m just betting you all don`t spent that time that is needed to be spent to actually get it to hanbdle as good as a brick on 10s

have fun,,,enjoy your big ass wheel/tyre combos,,,,but i`m going back to 10s,,,that`s just me tho

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

i think it depends on the type of 10's you use. If you had the dodgy set of brookvale bodgers that i had (cut, plate added and then pop-rivetted!!! When the tyres were off, you could pull the two sides of the rims in different directions!!!!!!!!!!)

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68matic: "i havent seen much head in my life "

hey matt now that your going to the 10's you wouldnt have 2 of those Yoko 175x50x13" AO48R tyres up for sale would you?? if not do you know where i could get some in oz??

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1974 Moke - 998cc
76 Clubman B16a2 Vtec AWD Turbo 12.9@105mph
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9PW49e1hYs

Mat is right when it comes to unsprung weight, but there are options available to get the handling as well as the look. There are plenty of light weight race rims out there and modifications to fit can be carried out at places like Circle Track or Chris Neale in Brisbane. I have a set of magnesium centred 3 piece rims in 13x7.5 that wouldnt weigh much more than a set of contessa rims, couple these with a set of AO48R's and "thats what Im talkin bout"
PS tell your wheel guy you can fit 8's without rubbing the suspension if the offset is set positive. Just means you need bigger flares. If you use the same 175x50x13 tyre the contact patch is the same if they are on a 6, 7, or 8 inch rim. The weight per square inch is the same and the amount of friction used to turn the wheel is the same. Where the difference comes in is the Moment arm from the swivel hub. Ie if the rim is more offset outwards you need more force to get it to move as for each turn of the wheel the outside of the tyre is covering a larger area on the bitumen. Did ya get that??

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1970 Cooper S ex-Bathurst & ATCC
1964 Austin Cooper S ex-Group C race car
1967 Morris Cooper S ex-Group B
1962 Mini Speed sports sedan
1968-71 ex-Peter Manton Shell car

Hey guys i have no suspension on my car at the moment and it is still sitting pretty high.. I currently have the stock 10"s on it and because i have a body kit on the car some of the guard had to be cut and now there is about a 250mm gap between the top of the tyre and the bottom of the guard, i have 13 x 7"s to go on, but once i put the suspension back on wont that only make it higher? How would i go about lowering it?

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If you want more inches, stroke it
Life's a garden.... Dig It!
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=20746

i dont know what you mean by 'no suspension' because technically you wouldnt be able to bolt your wheels on because your wheels bolt onto part of the suspension..

all that said and done.. if you mean you have no cones in there.. then all thats limiting height is your bump stops (if you have any).. my wheels go way up into the guards if i have no cones in ther.. so something must be wrong (i smashed a trumpet so i know.. haha)

post some pics

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Expert in training