i do wheel alignments day in and out and u are better off sending it to a mini speciallist cause the average workshop has got the tools nor the know how to do the adjustments the old fashion way.. these days u are adjusting the steering wheel and tie rods, the old way use to be adjusting the rack to suit the steering wheel.

i dont even do my own wheel alignments cause its juz a pain in the ass

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oil leak?..what oil leak..that puddle under the car is just sweat from all that horsepower

i'm running a008s on the front a bridgestones on the rear which is giving me less rear end grip. with this tyre set up i get almost no udersteer in the dry. i'm changing to a032r's soon. on tens you need to run more neg camber also so compensate for the sidewall flex. if i was running 12' i would on run around 1.5 to 1 deg and on 13s from 1 to 0 deg. when i get some time i will try some toe out. what are people idea's on the amounts.

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FOR SALE MInidlx, 1293, GR head, RE-13, GR worked Redline Manifold, 45 mm DCOE,pulsar dizzy , "S" Disc's, Mk II "S" box, 3.65 diff. Minator 10X6's On the loose

this is just a little copy and paste from a mini suspension article
Rear end
Here we’re only concerned with camber and track, both of which are generally/more easily adjusted using the same component – the outer radius arm bracket. In contrast to the front, track is the most important factor of the two; acutely altering how the car handles and its over-all stability so should attract the largest input of time and money. Whilst too much (or more than recommended) toe-in will have no real side effects other than increased/unnecessary drag and tyre wear on the outer edges, toe-out makes for attention-grabbing performance. A little toe-out makes the car skittish with a sharp turn-in/over-steer (back end trying to over-take the front), a lot makes it completely un-ruley in any other mode than flat-out, with severe over-steer at the slightest hint of steering input. And you just don't ant to get involved with what happens when lifting off mid-corner! Definitely not for the in-experienced, faint hearted or those of a nervous disposition.

Rear camber
Camber on the rear is used to fine-tune handling. Negative camber increases rear-end tyre contact patch when the body rolls and therefore increases it’s grip when cornering However, what is not often appreciated/known is that increasing rear negative camber has a two-fold positive effect. First, it raises the rear roll centre from ground height – anything gained here helps to counter skewed rear roll as the front roll centre is much higher – and second it causes the outer wheel to go progressively toe-out when cornering, so counters the extra ‘grip’ gained by greater negative camber. This all helps cornering stability and capability with a greater degree of control than simply whacking on a load of static toe-out tracking. Positive camber has the direct opposite effect – causing way too much rear end stability/reluctance to turn. There is a train of thought - indeed some positive proof in theory - that adding negative camber will increase roll stiffness by marginally increasing the rear track width. By only a very small amount - but there nonetheless and every little helps.

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FOR SALE MInidlx, 1293, GR head, RE-13, GR worked Redline Manifold, 45 mm DCOE,pulsar dizzy , "S" Disc's, Mk II "S" box, 3.65 diff. Minator 10X6's On the loose

This cannot be further from the truth!

Without lubrication on high torque situations, the nut or bolt head will grab the surface that you are trying to screw into or if your threads are rusty and give you false readings. It will show 60 or 70 ft/lbs when it is probably only 50 or so due to friction.

Wheel nuts however you may not need to use any grease. But if they are rusty and old (!!! ) then it might pay to use some grease.

I do put a tiny bit of grease on the wheel stud thread before putting the but on.

ARP standard instructions for their head studs and conrod bolts are to use grease and not loctite or no lube at all...

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

I found these specs on the mini spares website. they said this is a basic setup for the road.

Rear
1/16" toe in
0 deg camber

Front
3 to 4 deg forwards caster
1 deg neg camber (1/2 deg on 13" wheels)
1/16 toe out

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FOR SALE MInidlx, 1293, GR head, RE-13, GR worked Redline Manifold, 45 mm DCOE,pulsar dizzy , "S" Disc's, Mk II "S" box, 3.65 diff. Minator 10X6's On the loose

My settings for rear are

1/16 toe in
-1° camber

This works well for me, very predictable through corners

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

NO Chong it was toe-IN, on rear,I did them...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I would almost bet that I am the only bloke here (intentionally) running toe-out on the rear.

Toe-out on the rear is bad.
Toe-out is standard on the Morris 1100.
What does that tell you?

I think it was because of the longer wheelbase on the 1100 that caused BMC to give the allignment specs that they did. It seems to work on an 1100 but it would be shocking on a Mini.

Hahahaha biggest typo ever! sorry Toe in at the rear!

I had toe out at the rear and would not recomend it to ANYONE!

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Rear toe-out is, er..... interesting..
even more so when the car crabs as well (ie each side different).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.