Jon, ALL A series have a FULL FLOW oil filter (except 803cc which had a bypass filter)
If relief valve is closed ALL oil goes to the filter, then the oil galleries.
If/when pressure relief valve opens, it simply diverts that excess pressure beyond the pressure setting (60-70psi) from the pump, back into the sump.

I repeat- ALL oil the engine gets is filtered (unless the bypass valve in filter head opens because filter is blocked with crud).
Some people advocate welding this valve closed on competition engines, but GR says with a filter in good condition, it never opens anyway.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

then is it the oil lines and galleries that fail,

why is the lube system the second most talked about apart from cooling,

oh and cooling why not take 2 heater cores to a radiator place and get them to stick it to gether, or have any other sort of large heater core mounted and plumbed under the bonnet latch, i doubt even a hot1300 would heat up quickly with that,

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any parts for a 76 clubby pm me or ring 0405 329 326

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=44717

Guys.....
The standard radiator used in Oz Minis from 1965 on is 16 fins/inch and is quite adequate, provided it is in good condition.
People use tap water, let these radiators fill with crud over 20 years and expect them to perform.
I thought my old Mk2 S one was pretty good, it never overheated. I picked it up from being serviced today and the rad man said yeah, it was `pretty dirty' inside. Fine in there now.

The most additional cooling you should ever need is a heater core sitting behind the grille, IMO.
With a Minimatic fresh air heater sitting there, mine never gets past N, even in 40C weather. And it's a 1360 with ~120HP.

re lubrication it boils down to- build motor properly, use good oil, change it often, don't let it run low.
Many trashed engines I've come across were the result of low oil- the bearings get starved on roundabouts etc due to where the strainer is sited in the box.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

A question on a heater core Doc. I have an old one from the LS heater and am thinking of putting it in behind the grille, so would that be big enough to help with the cooling???

Also, where would I plumb the extra core into, from the outlet on the head through the core and then to the return pipe on the radiator????

smokie, yes, the heater core will be plenty as a just in case, and yes you plumb as you have said. You are adding close to a litre to the system, so this should bring back up the amount of fluid in the system to std, being that most motor's are full of crap and most radiators are full off gunk. As stated before, make sure your cooling system is working properly before adding extra cores as it will only delay the inevitable. for the $80 to clean your rad, and $15 or so for a good engine flush, it'll save you a $1500+ engine rebild in the long run.

Cheers
Aaron

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What he said...^^^
It's not just the extra water, the heater core adds maybe 30% to the effective cooling area of the radiator. Particularly when moving.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks aaron. I just had the motor completly rebuilt and a fully reconditioned radiator put in with new water pump, hoses, etc about 1200K's ago so this is just an extra while the engine is still new.

Only problem is finding a place to put it because with the LS there are a couple of fog lamps in the grill tho maybe I could remove then as they are never used...

Next thing I might look at is fitting a thermo fan...

anyone done a total recore, brass?

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any parts for a 76 clubby pm me or ring 0405 329 326

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=44717

So KCs comments in Mini Expert about replaceing the valve in the filter head with a grub screw can be ignored? - He says he doesn't do a rebuild without blanking it off

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

It's one of the things KC and GR apparently disagree on.
There are others.... like the design of the centre oil pickup...

Graham says as long as you replace the filter religiously that valve won't ever open.
Oz Mini Deluxe had a switch in the filter head to tell you when it did, I found you really had to leave a filter there for years for it to happen.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I did not braise up the bypass either. Most screw on filters have built in internal bypasses anyway. For $4 a filter, just change it very often! why risk it on your $X000 motor for $4 a pop??

In fact, Using Kmart oil and $4 FSA filters, that's about $15 per oil change (with some left over as you get 6L with KMX) so you can afford to do tripple frequency oil changes!

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Played around with the LS heater core today and have temporarily set it up behind the grille..

I had taken it for a run before changing things and then once again after it was fitted and got around a 10C drop in water temp and today where I am, the weather temp got as high as 35C and 45C in the direct sun so it was a good test for the cooling system...

I have taken the fog light out so I might just end up buying a standard Clubman grille if I can find one for the right price...

another thing you can do for the Oil System...Place a Magnet on the Oil filter

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

are playing funny buggers, whats a magnet going to do,

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any parts for a 76 clubby pm me or ring 0405 329 326

http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=44717

No he not....you can get a band or rare earth magnets for your oil filter.....ever looked at the iron filings the sump plug magnet collects same principle

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"Show me the Mini!"