You will need to change the emulsion tubes, mains and air correctors, IMO.
7772.6 emulsion tube works well in 1275s. So does a 7772.5 but they are NLA.
34 chokes are OK until you have some serious engine mods.
Air correctors for 34 chokes- I would go with 180, main jets around 150.
PM me if you need more info.

You can get all these parts from Carburettor Service Co, in Sydney.
(02) 9747 4066.
If you want chokes though, no. I got my 36s in from www.dellorto.co.uk.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Sounds good. You reckon I'll get away with the 50 idle Jet & 50 accelerator pump jet?

Are the chokes the expensive part? Given that I need to buy new main jets, is it worth getting the bigger choke now or just waiting till later when I get the head flowing better? It's not going beyond 1293 for quite a while but I'll probably put some more effort into the head/manifold flow in the short term.

If I stay with the 34mm chokes I'll get:
150 Main jets
180 Air Corrector
7772.7 emulsion tubes... hammil reckons these are a bit leaner on fuel

If you reckon its worth getting the 36mm chokes now I'll go:
36mm choke
160 Main jets
180 Air Corrector
7772.7 emulsion tubes

Is there a standard overhaul kit that the mob from Sydney do? Anything special that I need to request?


I have Lynx linkages by the look of them. Black swivelly thingoes which you talked about having a nasty experience with in the past?

dewey

<edit> Even though it may not look like it with all these stupic questions... I have been using the search button. Anywho... you said in a previous post that the Redline 3005 manifold brings the carb out nice and close to the firewall... too close to run ram tubes. Do you use the shorter sub stacks inside that mad air box you made???

<edit 2> Just found this epic thread about the ones you made for everybody. NFI how I missed it... do you have any left or any desire to do me up a set of 45mm ones?

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dwightgunning.com

I would go with 7772.6, not 7772.7emulsion tubes, I KNOW they work!

I would try the 50 idle jets and pump jets, that's what's in mine.

Yes, I use the stubstacks inside a Ramflo RF445P5S filter.

I might have 2 spare stubstacks, if not I can make some more. Anybody else want some?

The Lynx plastic `rose joints' work OK but they flex, when old they break easy. I replaced them with some proper steel ones from BSC.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

hot damn this carb gear ain't cheap!!!

I'm calling my guy tomorrow to see if he can tweak it through on a trade price.

~50 for a rebuild kit... My gaskets are still pretty stiff, I'm wondering if I can get away without it.

dewey

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dwightgunning.com

Trust me, the kit is worth it. You don't know where carbs have been....

The accelerator pump on these is a big diaphragm under the carb. New one comes in kit. Ditto the needle valve and seat, gaskets, O-rings, etc. Don't want it to leak or flood, do we- the exhaust is right underneath..
. I put a repair kit in mine 10 years ago, it is still running good.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hay Kevin I can feel a shipment comming in soon..I need a number of thing and so will Makka...That make three

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

The `proper' genuine Dellorto repair kit does 2 carbs.. I need one kit for Josh's carb so that makes 4 carbs ( 2 kits).

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Are we going to do Local or UK Doc as we all need Jets also

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Work out what you want dude, and I'll bring them in from UK. They have complete stock (chokes too!) and are cheaper than here.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Makka...what do you need and dewey you in, I still have the orginal notes we took Doc so I'm in

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Yeah I'm in.

I've got my guy seeing if he can get trade prices but I reckon the UK will come through with the goods.

As above, I'm after

2 x main jets - 150
2 x Air correctors (emulsion tube holders) - 180
2 x Emulsion tubes - 7772.6
rebuild kit.

And a pair of Dr Mini Substacks would be awesome if not NLA

Whats the timeframe we're working to? I'm pretty keen to have the engine (and hence carby) done before christmas.

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dwightgunning.com

Engineering update:
The block needed to be line-bored for the crank. I guess its a good thing that its been done if it needs it, bit more $$$ though.

The bloke doing the 940 head reckons he will try and get 1.4 valves in it. Reading Vizard this seems like a reasonably good thing, although the lift height needs to be watched because of 50thou difference between the standard valves and the 1.4 'S valves (do to valve deck height difference between the 940 and 'S heads). He was also talking about putting unleaded valve seats in it. I'll find out more on the weekend when I go down there. Is there any good tips I can take with me?

Cam:
Kev, I've decided not to go all out on the cam at this stage. I'll get the cam ground to suit the head as it is. Then grab another head/cam later next year and do the full on job on both of them. So the RE-13 is out for now... most probably have waggot do one up to suit the head. Apparently the guy doing the head has a 'puter hooked up to his flow bench and he can get a computer to advise the cam grind that will suit.

Gearbox:
My guy is keen to go ahead with the rod change gears into remote housing conversion. The donor rod change is slipping out of 2nd apparently, I haven't driven on it (it was a gift) so I will get it all overhauled and parts replaced as needed. Kev can I give you a call to talk about the proceedure? I won't be doing it myself, we've got a bloke who's done thousands of 'boxes back in the day who will do it, but he's never done a conversion like this. I'm picturing it like this:

1. Tear down the rod change as you normally would in a normal 'box rebuild.
2. Grab the reverse idler and shaft and shelve them.
2. Grab a reverse idler and shaft from a remote change box and put them with all the other transmission internals.
3. Check all the gears and replace worn parts etc. as necessary.
4. Start reassembling everything into the remote transmission housing.

Final Drive:
I want to be able to drive the car on the highway without hemorrhaging. Apparently the 3.44 'S final drive is a pretty safe option? What is a good quality 2nd hand one worth?

dewey

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dwightgunning.com

I work on light aircraft and we use the Facet pump on them. They are extremely reliable and highly recommended - I will bet fitting one to Scooby when the time comes

Cheers

Gig

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67 Deluxe - Red and white
69 Deluxe - Sugercane Grey

id be up for a dellorto kit aswell, let me know whats happenin

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lookin for another clubby

Dewey, don't use MK1S inlets- they are too short in a 940- Karcraft have 1.4 MK2 S inlet valves (suit 940 head) p/no is AEG592.
$$23.38 in my (old) catalog.
Kevin

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.