Cheers - I'm not doing the rebuild myself but I'll keep it in mind. I'm getting trusted people who I know will use best quality parts to rebuild it for me.

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I wish I had some sort of witty quote in my signature

my 2 cts.

Don't go overboard on specs, a well build engine with a conservative spec will be vastly superior to a badly build mismatched semi race engine.

1360 ( but 1310 or 30 is fine too)

Short cam something in the 255-266 bracket. Makes for a nice engine that does not need to be flogged all the time.

If you want a ported head. I'd spend money on properly ported one (GR) or if you are really strapped for budget just get the valves back cut to 30 degrees ( still a 45 seat) .. takes only minutes and gives a very useful gain even if you leave the seat in the factory shape. Works every time.

Porting is not easy to do well. I have lost and found and sometimes lost again never to be found, lots of flow by changing some tiny tiny thing on a valve or a seat. I have put in bigger valves and lost flow and put in smaller valves and gained flow. Big ports you don't need .. pretty much ever.

I would not buy a ported head unless it was from a reputable builder.

oh.
Good LCB with a decent exhaust system.
a top quality cam timing chain like an IWIS.. I have had lots of grief with stretchy timing chains, just use offset woodruff keys

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no time to finish me bleedin car ..
1982 Blue-White Roof.

http://aseriesmodifications.wordpress.com/

Hey James - I'm by no means an engine expert but hopefully my experiences can help you a little.

My Clubman GT has an RE13 cam I bought about 4 years ago directly from Graham when doing my rebuild. The only other mods are lightened flywheel, centre oil pick up and LCB. I'm running standard 1 1/4 SU's.

I love the RE13 cam but find that I can't get it to idle comfortably below 900 rmp. Not a big issue at all and something you have to expect with any uprated cam. Having said that the car responds just as well to cruisy grandpa style driving as it does when you kick it in the guts. I love the feel through the rev range and it has plenty of get up and go but I sometimes feel the engine is lacking a little top end - I'm assuming this could be fixed with bigger carbs or a weber??

Before I had this engine rebuilt I had a 1330 (I think) with the same lightened flywheel, race cam (no idea of spec but I sent it off to GR as a changeover), 40mm weber, LCB extractors and the head had had quite a bit of porting done. It went like stink! I loved driving it, especially on the hwy and I do sometimes miss the ballys power of that engine but I'm also very happy with the rebuild. Mick did all the hard work (stripping/reassembly) with machining/grinding all done by the experts. Can't remember who did the crank but head/block machining was done through Lindsay Seibler who I believe is now retired.

Good luck with it all mate.

Skender.

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If you want more top end from an RE13 cam, just fit 1.5 rockers. Good power then to 7000. I didn't notice much if any detriment at low rpm.
Last 1360 I built with stock Mk2S head, RE13 cam, 1.5 rockers and a single HS6 carby made 107.5HP @6500 on GR's engine dyno.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

It was Crankshaft Rebuilders out at Blackburn Sken. http://www.crankshaftrebuilders.com.au/

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Good memory Mick. It had to go back for something right? The bearings or was that someone/thing else?

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these two things are mutually exclusive

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

I would suggest a budget planning approach. Get down on paper your ultimate goal with costs. Now get the rebuild done so that the money you spend is for hard to rework stuff.
Bore and hone is a lot harder to do in the driveway then changing to 1.5 rockers, so work your way through the list and choose items you cant do in the drive.
The biggest cost for professional rebuild is labour. You and Uncle Google can cut this down significantly. A good engine rebuilder doesn't need to be cleaning at premium rates.

Hi everyone, sorry I have't checked this thread for a little bit.

I've made some decisions on what's going to happen.

Basically this is the plan

* 1360 bore
* complete overhaul of remote box
* RE-266S camshaft
* 44 IDF GR downdraft weber
* head work all done by GR, bit of porting ect with complete services and replace everything that needs be
* lightened flywheel
* clutch as recommended by engine builder

I know who's going to build the engine, he is well respected within the mini community and I cannot WAIT to get this started in about June, so excited!

James

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I wish I had some sort of witty quote in my signature

How will you go with the clearance from the GR downdraft setup as 1275's are a bit taller than small bore I believe? Not as much head room.

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1963 Morris 850 Smoke Grey
1963 Morris 850 Shadow Blue
1965 Morris Mini Smooth Van
1966 Morris Mini Van
1969 Morris Mini Deluxe Resto
5/72 Clubman Gt

I didn't actually think of that, completely slipped my mind. This could be an issue :\

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I wish I had some sort of witty quote in my signature

HI jprior2912
There is no clearance problem on the 1275's as I designed it for my 1275 LS and it works just fine.
Graham Russell

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"It's better to be not informed than ill-informed"

Hi GR

is there more room under the LS bonnet than a round nose?

James

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I wish I had some sort of witty quote in my signature

Would that be with or without a filter on it?

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hi James
Yes it will fit under your bonnet
Graham Russell

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"It's better to be not informed than ill-informed"