Play around with this website http://www.guess-works.com/Tech/ratio.htm it's in imperial (mph) so you'll have to convert the speeds over but it'll give you a good idea of what speed and RPM you'll be doing in what gear depending on your tyre, diff and gearbox ratios.

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

My top speed didn't change much after I put the 2.9 diff in. The engine couldn't quite get to top speed. I only had a mild 1293 with twin 1.5 SU's.

was it still driveable? and would you recomend a 2.9 diff for a 1360cc that will be fuel injected with electronic ignition? (regardless of twincam/8port/7port/5port)

seeing as this has turned into a diff/gearbox discussion isntead of head discussions. . what gearbox shoudl i be running on a 1360? it has a GB of an old 1100 on it right now, thats all I know about it, i owne the car once before (sold it and purchased it back) adn when i sold it it was fitted with a straight cut box and LSD fitted by the owner i purchased the 1360cc from, i sold the car with the 1100cc engine that was in it when I purchased the car, and when i purchased it back got no spares but the green gearbox from the 1100 was now bolted to the bottom of my Red engine so it was obvious to see it had been changed. . (given that when the guy drove the car away when he picked it up and i could hear him griding the gears as he drove down the road trying to shift it id say he stuffed the box good and proper.

now this said, the box that is on the engine currently wont stay in 2nd gear so probably needs some work, as i was considering the 5 speed which people seem to warn me off. what gearbox should I purchase for a 1360 which i would like to make a fair bit of power on?

Thanks
Leroy.

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1967 Mini Deluxe bucket of rust and mismatched parts powered by a 1360cc and a destroyed gearbox missing second gear

Think we are chasing our tail here. You will have a better idea of what gearbox to buy after you work out the HP and Torque going through it. Your probably looking at up to 150HP and 120Ft/lb with those heads.

What are the casting numbers on the front of your gearbox?
Being from a 1098 it should be a rod change 4 syncro gearbox which will be fine and strong enough so long as it's rebuilt properly. You don't need to replace it but if you really want to you should look for a remote change 4 syc box. The remote change system has the alloy housing extending back to the gear stick which will give the engine much more stability.
But you can get the same stability from a rod chance box so long as you have the two top engine steady bars (connecting to the bulkhead) and two lower gearbox steadies (aftermarket items, never factory fitted).

You could use one of the boxes from your 998 or the 1098 you have, just check the casting numbers on the front right .

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Respect mine and I'll respect yours.

bit hard to get to the 1360 atm, its in the car strapped up under tarps in the backyard under a pile of other parts 0_0 (please don't kill me for my poor storage! but there is no shed space for it )

it is a rod change type yes, I do have two remote change sifters, but no remote change gearbox to go with them.

I have the two extra top steady and a single extra steady on the gearbox.

Leroy.

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1967 Mini Deluxe bucket of rust and mismatched parts powered by a 1360cc and a destroyed gearbox missing second gear

just pulled up some info from the guy i purchased the engine from,

90HP 104ftlb at 6000rpm which was 165kmph was what the motor made on the dyno before I purchased it, only change now is that is has a standard 1100 gearbox on it.

still trying to find the reciepts for all the engine work.

Leroy.

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1967 Mini Deluxe bucket of rust and mismatched parts powered by a 1360cc and a destroyed gearbox missing second gear

Respectable figures. Are you looking at Fuel injection?

yep will be Injected with electronic ignition, already have the megasquirt build up.

Those figures where on points with a 45DCOE dellorto

pulled the engine work reciepts, they are hand written by grame lord automotive
almost impossible to read unfortunately.

parts i can kind of read say:

"Standard 1105 crank -125"

"9.7:1 compression"

"731. Recond workd cam-24-64-59-29"

"valve size: inlet: 1.379
outlet: 1.153"

"combustion chamber 22.2cc
.040 heritage? cooper S Pistons"

"1.5:1 roller rockers"

"block inline bored for 4 bolt main stroked crank"

pretty well everything else is unreadable, some ramblings about stainless steel valve guides or somethingarather also, ni temped crank or something too.

I would upload the reciepts but they have the guy i purchased it froms name address and phone number on them.
Leroy.

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1967 Mini Deluxe bucket of rust and mismatched parts powered by a 1360cc and a destroyed gearbox missing second gear