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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2005 9:11 am 
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
IF you can still get the parts and you have a manual, fixing racks is not hard.
Problem lately is getting the parts.. particularly the Belleville washers and bearings. :cry:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2005 12:53 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Wollongong
has anyone ever taken a rack out without undoing the subframe?? I have heard that you can make the hole in the firewall bigger to spin the rack around and slide the rack out the side??????

Anyone done it? Dont know if my engine will have enough clearance for it to tilt and get the rack out normally :?

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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2005 4:24 pm 
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SooperDooperMiniCooper ExpertEngineering
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
Yes I did once.

Not nice in the least. Many hours of work.

Manoevering the rack out is one major problem, geting it back in is another.
The one that did make me cry was returning the U-bolts to their spot.

At least undo the back of the frame, you just need that extra space to move.

Mick

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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2005 4:27 pm 
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Trick with the U-bolts is squeeze them in the vyce until parallel again. Then try them in the holes from inside the car.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2005 4:32 pm 
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SooperDooperMiniCooper ExpertEngineering
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Location: Under the bonnet son!
You know that was exactly my problem!!

I was to stubborn to remove them once I had them nearly in there, but I caved in after about an hour and aligned with the vice,and then it took 5 minutes for each one!

I will still never do it again.
Horrible job.

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PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2005 6:01 pm 
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the King of Bling
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gafmo wrote:


Subframe Bolts

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 Post subject: Hammered
PostPosted: Mon May 30, 2005 6:26 pm 
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Location: Sthrn HiLoLands, NSW, Australia
drmini in aust wrote:
Trick with the U-bolts is squeeze them in the vyce until parallel again. Then try them in the holes from inside the car.


or...whack em with a big hammer as close to the ends as possible being real careful not to damage the threads....

I used to do this against a piece of hardwood...u hold the U between thumb and forefinger and be ready to whip em out of the way when the hammer glances off the U bolt :roll:

.....I think squeezing in a vice is better...if you have a vice!! :D

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2005 10:11 am 
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Yeah best thing Brad ever told me was the replace the steering rack when I had the frame off went in very easy compared to last time I did it. :wink: Also I ended up buying a brand new rack for $245 (not reco). Seems to turn the wheels like the old one did...

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2005 8:47 pm 
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OK today I got a package from north of the border with 2 new pinion bearings and 4 Belleville washers.
So yes, these parts are still available for Oz racks, if you look around. :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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