Crikey!!!! And how does one go about that process Morris???? (as in where is the piston and the process involved)

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I got nuthin......................

It's actually the `strut' that you cut down, or put washers onto. It sits where the trumpet is on a dry car, serves the same putpose.

After 35+ years, most hydros don't need any help to get lower... the rubber bags are a bit stretched and it would take more than normal pressure to get to `normal' height.

BTW these `hydro bags' are more than just a wet `air bag'. The top part is a rubber `cone' a bit like a dry one, and provides some springing.
Imagine a Mini rubber cone, with fluid and damping within it, connected front to rear.
Ingenious design... Pity the rubber cone was cheaper for BL...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

So you have 4 dampening effects with in a Hydro....
1 Solid Rubber one end and 2 Fluid pressures
3 Elasticity (rubber) and 4 Front to back pressure


Firm up Bumper Stopers..Front only, will give you a little softer in the rear and less movement in the front (specially good for pitching ((nose up on right foot ((( Bet Ya they don't look to good))

Firm up front and back....Solid all Round bet may be skatey depending on tyres

Front Shock conversion, I have not done this

Correct me Man

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

The hydro's internal damping works similar to the valves in a shock absorber. After 35 years they are less efective and adding shocks to the front is a good idea. You don't need them in the back too, as the connection F-R provides some damping effect.

Comp bumpstops in the back will reduce pitching and improve turn-in to corners, but can make it a bit twitchy if you don't watch it..
Front comp bumpstops are a waste of time for the road, IMO- it rides way high and you then get positive front camber = more understeer = not good!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Now correct me if I'm wrong, but this was mentioned by a Mini tuner: The other point of adjusta-rides/hi-los is to balance the car by getting each corner to exert an equal force on the road. Since Minis are quite often twisted, the suspension should be set up correctly. Imagine a table with one leg shorter. Hi-los allow you to correct this, and racers will weigh each corner of the car then lengthen or shorten a strut to suit. I haven't done this as Hi-los need certifying in NZ, but I'm "collecting" a few mods to get certed at one sitting. Anyway, the point would seem to be: adjust the corner weighting first, then ride height to suit.

heres one correction:
"Mini owners are quite often twisted"

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Inconspicuously Conspicuous
Appreciation without Depreciation
forever chasing clearer skies...

I want you drive Morris

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Yeah, OK... and then you can drive mine and feel the difference!

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I get my mini back from the mechanics tomorrow after having my (painted sti pink) hi-lo's put in, lucky i did to, not only was my front right "cone" broken in half, the rubber spring/donut had compressed so much it was starting to turn itself inside out haha. Ill try and get it back off the mechanic and put some pics of it up.

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I'm sure you will feel the differance while driving her.

STi Pink what were you thinking

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It