how are these 90 HP defined? only with 1275ccm? factory parts?

over here is a MPi with 109HP, 1430ccm and custom inlet

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Rover 214 atm ....

Hi KLAS,

Things have got a bit off track with this topic, we've had these posts before about hp etc....

Everyone has been going it alone and no-one has proof that their system actually 'works', including me, so my main aim is to find out those interested without having to search all the EFI threads from before. Unfortunately it looks like alot are no longer regular users anymore.

I guess you vote is interested in N/A EFI then?

Cheers

Daniel

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Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

i would vote for both, N/A and turbo EFI, but think N/A would be of more use
and i know that it can work know some EFI minis with more than proven 90HP

if i can help tell me

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Rover 214 atm ....

I'm still interested. My idea is to mod the supercharger kit that i got for carbie and run more toyota 4GZE parts (throttle body and sensors) and use aftermarket injectors and a motec or similiar computer, but this is all in the future, after year 12 (this year) when I have time to experiment. I may sound mad, but it's something I want to try, just for fun but I'm am not sold that it will give more HP might win mini shows jsut for looking powerful but eyah I don't know...

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

alot of the after maket computers use less sensors that factory computers and just run to a set fuel map and ignition map there is no adation in these systems so sensors are only used for tuning. on most moden efi cars now days the fuel maps and ignition maps are constantly variable. when you see the graphs of a factory efi setup they are always searching for a better setup. when u seen the after market computers they stick to the graph that has been setup for them. there maybe adaption is the motecs but i have never seen them in action

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FOR SALE MInidlx, 1293, GR head, RE-13, GR worked Redline Manifold, 45 mm DCOE,pulsar dizzy , "S" Disc's, Mk II "S" box, 3.65 diff. Minator 10X6's On the loose

I'm no expert but efi & ignition contol development changes daily. Motec & Haltech now sell units that are capable of firing a two injector set up ( ie one / runner - perfect for mini's ) twice within the firing order , therefore creating a sequential injector firing order of say 1342 ( is that mini's ? ) with only 2 injectors.This would greatly reduce the wet port sydrome of 3 & 4 assosiated with centre point injection & carby's. The new systems are capable of firing the injector at any point you determine eg. 10 deg. atdc. of the induction stroke to what ever works best (more dyno time ,more & more money) as well as the normal duration time of injector opening in milli sec.
With this type of injection combined with computer ign. control the old 5 port is in for a new lease of life, be it way out of my price range. I don't have all the answers to the questions this may raise but a good freind of mine works at Motec in Melbourne his name is David Chandler & he will be able to tie you up in techinal knots.
Regards Russdog

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figjam

the better modern aftermarket ECUs have all the same features as factory ones, some even more
and yes they can "learn" all the time to compensate engine wear and tear as factory ECUs
nothing magic here
biggest advantage with aftermarket: they can run with a minimum setup. not everyone needs a camshaft sensor (if you can live without sequential injection or have no way to fit one), you don't need a crankshaft sensor (but it is better with one), no need for a O2 sensor (but nice to have)

today you can say, if it runs on carbs it will run on EFI

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Rover 214 atm ....

The manifold possibilities are endless with EFI. I made one to this design:









This design uses 4 Bosch 14 mm injectors as per N13 Pulsar. It uses Pulsar fuel rail sections welded together and fits a VN Commodore 60 mm throttle body.

It looks like this installed (if only my fabrication skills weren't crud ):



The runners at the head are 38 mm outside diameter. They taper up to 41mm and all of the bends are 41 mm stock mandrel bends from Fleetguard.

Runner length is 415 mm or over 16 inches each, not including the plenum.

Top half lifts off for access to injectors. The exhaust system must be made so the 1 & 4 pipes drop vertical prior to angling in so they miss the lower pipes.

Anyone need a manifold designed for their turbo / supercharger installation or if you want dual throttles etc. let me know & I can design it up & send you the drawings.

M.

I may have seen dyno info on this before?? But if you have dynoed it what was the result? How does it drive and how much advantage is there over a carby?

Everytime I think about it, and look at all the toyota 4GZE stuff I got the more I want to make that work on a mini. BTW Mokesta, your fabrication skills mustn't be too bad as looking at that pic it looks bling!

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

Nah, the dyno results for Mokesta are for her with a HIF44 carb on modified stock inlet manifold. The manifold above vas designed & built in 2004 and has never been completed or used.

Lessons I learnt from making this manifold / going through this project:

1/ Never use a gassless MIG on thin sections, like mandrel bends being butt-welded. The slag comes out of the welds when you sand-blast and you are left with non-air-tight manifold...

2/ It's cheap to make the entire thing yourself out of mild steel but cheaper in the long run to buy stainless so you don't have to coat it inside & out. Again, you need a better welder than mine to weld stainless.

3/ Never make your own injector bosses out of 25 square bar and a cheap drill press. Spend the extra and get some turned up to the right 13.5 mm inside diameter. That way the injectors will seal and the spray pattern wll be better inside the manifold.

4/ Cars at the wreckers seem to either have 40 to 44 mm throttle bodies or 60 mm +. It's very hard to get the ideal size for a mini.

5/ Read up about 5 port injection before building a manifold. That way you don't end up with a manifold in a box in your garage because you don't want to spend $$$ on a decent sequential injection computer with individual injector opening phase and pulse width trim.

6/ If you put an oxygen sensor into the exhaust, put it in the side opposite the fuel pump so, when you decide not to go for injection, you can go back to mechanical pump...

7/ You can use the late Rover SPI distributor housing with a Jaycar trigger (or other electronic dizzy arrangement with locked, or no advence) as your crank angle trigger. you can't use a crank sensor with sequential, you have to use a cam trigger. A crank trigger will give you #1 at TDC but not which stroke.

8/ To tune the thing on the dyno, you'll need exhaust gas temp probes in the outer and middle exhaust outlets, or two wide band oxygen sensors. It's the only accurate way to tell if 1 & 4 are the same mixture as 2 & 3.

9/ You can make a great fuel rail from bits picked up at the wreckers for next to nothing BUT... The rails on Pulsars/ Commodores (N13 & VN with Delco injection) are brazed together and when you get someone to TIG up your creation, the braze filler mixes with the TIG puddle and leaves micro cracks everywhere. The fuel rail looks sex but sprays fuel from every join... Get it brazed together and save the heartache.

Happy fabricating.

This is my long term project, turning a 5 port into a seven port, most of the manifolds are made just the injector blocks & fuel rail to go. Haven't done the head yet as I have wrecked 3 heads so far . Still 2007 is a new year with new ideas. 18 months in the making so far & I don't even own a mini , it's a mate of mines project. the link will show my progress . Russdog

http://s133.photobucket.com/albums/q57/russdog1/?

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figjam

I like that, it would need bulkhead mods to fit though, right? As it looks fairly large, but a weber box is a simple mod so that's ok.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

No firewall mods, will need 40mm rear facing bonnet scoop to clear turbo & get heat out,plenum sits under turbo & towards speedo

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figjam

luv that manifold mokesta. have u got it running properly? this is my dream nice fuel injected turbo mmmmmmmmm

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i like to drive on rails