I've just got an updated price list from Karcraft so I'm going through a few things. They don't seem to have listings for oil or water pumps??? Do I have to source them from elsewhere? Any particular brands worth looking at?

I was also recommended to put a new clutch kit in the car. What's a clutch kit generally include? Any particular part numbers I should be looking for from karcraft?

dewey

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dwightgunning.com

Yes the oil pumps are there, water pumps too.

Re the clutch kit I go genuine Borg & Beck Cooper S, every time. 3 reasons:
1. Decent release bearing, UK made.
2. Ditto the clutch plate facing.
3. Borg & Beck blue dot S diaphragm is better clamping spec than the aftermarket ones.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hey Kev,

Have you got any stats on the purolator fuel pump? I went down to burson's and they couldn't get hold of any 'Pro #12S'. Maybe they've changed their model numbers or something? I just need something that does 2-3psi don't I? What sorta flow does a 1275 with a 45 weber/del require?

I'm going down to sort out the 1100S engine tomorrow. I got some bad news about the remote change box. It turns out he only has the housings and the gears are probably around the place but they'll be mixed in with other bits and peices. Can you drop 3 syncrho rod change gears into a remote box?

dewey

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dwightgunning.com

Dewey,
You can drop 4 synchro rod change gears (except reverse idler) into a 4 synchro remote box.
But if it's an 1100S box, it's 3 synchro.
I've got one here with gears, but no diff housing, or remote. Condition unknown. PM me if interested.

These days though I wouldn't bother. Either find a Mini-K or MK2 S remote box, or fit a rodchange one.
Old 3 synchro boxes are getting hard to source bits for, and they are weaker too.

<edit> re the Facet fuel pump, get the smallest one. It's big enough for a road car.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Spent the day with my mini bloke (you know what I mean... you have a bloke for welding, a bloke that does exhausts... etc).

The specs on the top end I bought is as follows:
12YD|Ta|H7531block --- doesn't have the 'window' above the center main bearing.
double row timing gears
12G1288 crank... EN16
std rods... 'S I think
std bore although it looks to have been rebuilt... one of the pistons was in backwards
12G940 head

I'm going to have it bored to 20thou over. The crankshaft ground. Leave the rods as is. Not sure whether to have the block decked to make the piston height match the top of the block. I know of a guy who had the pulley, crank, flywheel, diaphram, rods, pistons balanced for $250... does that sound like a good option? Mild head work, just ported to match the inlet/exhaust manifold. I dunno whether to have unleaded seats put in it? Sounds expensive. I think I'll just keep the head quite tame for now and do up another head next year then swap them over (I'll have to keep this in mind when choosing my cam).

I'm going to strip the dellorto tonight and figure out if its got useful jets/choke/venturi's etc already. Its on a manifold that looks 1/2 decent. My guy had a full on swan neck in the box and it looked Nasty. This has the swan but its more like a nice 'esse bend' then a swan shape. Kinda like the redline manifold at first glance (not sure how they'd compare).

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dwightgunning.com

I would do a dry build (no rings on a piston) to see what the deck height is, then deck the block to get .010-.020" deck height. It is false economy to not clean it up- for starters, I bet it is not flat now....
If not flat it is a major cause of gasket sealing problems.

When decking the block, ask them to leave the engine number lug alone. Just cut wide enough to clear the gasket and head. Then you won't have to answer questions/get it restamped etc....

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Just remembered I've gotta get the transmission sorted.

My guy has about 5 empty mini remote housings. And an abundance of 1100S 3 synchro boxes the different 1100S housing (some special sandwich plate). We've also got access to plenty of rod-change boxes.

I'm really really keen to get a 4-synchro remote change box happening. Is there any crazed smushing of the above that will give me what I want?



Does this mean I could take one of his remote change housings, the gears from my 4 synchro... and aquire a remote change reverse idler (maybe from the 1100S box?) and it would work?

dewey

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dwightgunning.com

Dewey, isn't yours a Mini-K box? If not what is it?

1100S donk will bolt straight onto a Mini-K box. 22G1128. Same case as MK2 S.

3 synchro cases will not take 4 synchro parts. Except the 3-4 selector fork..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

nah unfortunately I was had when I bought the car. It's a rod change 'box. I haven't even had the head off... it could be 998 internals in a 1098 block.

Guess I didn't know enough about mini's when I made the buy...

dewey

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dwightgunning.com

OK so you need a K casing. PM me...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Can I get some recommendations for the cam you think I should run? Vizard seems to reckon the 649 is a pretty safe bet although a little short on lift. I keep hearing you lads rave about how good the G.E cams are but he's in sydney and I'm on a budget. Apparently there's a bloke in norther nsw close to my engine builder who's come up from sydney... wagner or wagnell or something that has a bit of a 'name' in cam circles... does speed way cams or something. Anybody heard of him?

Can I just get the timings for one of G.E's gems and have a local do up a replica or is that against the rules?

Basically its a 940 head that will be ported mildly and I'll have the inlet and exhaust manifold ported to match as well. Nothing full on though. Running a dellorto 45 with whatever trick bits I need.

Also is it worth going all out and getting unleaded inserts and the saucy valves/seats that I recall being mentioned in a thread a few months ago?

dewey

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dwightgunning.com

Waggott Cams are in Murwillumbah I think, probably who you are thinking of. Or there's Ian Tighe cams in Brissy.
I'd forget a 649 for street use, it's overkill. And it'll wear out too fast.
I'd get something around 270-286* duration.
Graham Russell will grind your cam to RE-13 spec (277* inlet/286* ex) for about $130 if you post it to him.
His address is 113a North Rocks Rd, North Rocks (near Parramatta).

PM sent also.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hrm I really gotta read up on these cams then. I'll keep that ballpark price in mind for Russel's RE-13... what is the timing for the inlet/exhaust open/close? My guy reckons Waggot's cams are pretty good... I guess they will have their own variation of similar spec.

Hey Kev, I'm still trying to track down the purolator pump. Burson's said nobody could get hold of the #12S and they mighta stopped making them? My guy pulled out a solid state pump... he's got all these loud bits lying around that he doesn't want cause they're too noisy for him (del's, weber's, solid state pumps etc)... it's square and brass coloured like that pic you posted. Basically its got a few instructions on a white sticker on one face of the cube and on the other there are a few patents pressed into the metal case. Does this sound like your purolator? He wants 60 for it. If it's not right I will chase around for one of the other brands you mentioned.


dewey

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dwightgunning.com

Yeah that sounds like the pump.
I've seen the Facets, one of mine is marked Purolator and the other TRW. All look/work the same. No SU points either- must work by magic...

PM sent re RE-13 cam timing.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I stripped the Dellorto on the weekend and gave it a good clean up. Here's the gist of the components that its got currently:

Choke: 34mm
Idle Jet: 50
Air Bleed: 7850.1
Main Jet: 185
Emulsion Tube: 7772.2
Air Corrector: 200
Auxillary Venturi: 8011.1
Accelerator Pump Jet: 50

I've just read through the Hammil book and i've gathered the following for his 'recommended' settings for a 1275...

Choke: 36
Idle Jet: 45
Idle Jet Air Bleed/Holders: 7850.1 or 7850.2
Main Jet: 155 (w/ 34mm choke) 160 (w/ 36mm choke)
Emulsion Tube: 7772.7 (leaner) 7772.6 (richer)
Air Corrector: 180
Auxillary Venturi: 8011.1
Accelerator Pump Jet: 45

After I'd compiled all that from the chapter I found the section at the back where he spells it all out anyway. I guess I proved to myself that I can still read properly.

Anyway looking at the above, what I've got already differs from whats recommended here:
Chokes: 34mm --> 36mm
Idle Jet: 50 --> 45
Idle Jet Air Bleed/Holders: can stay the same
Main Jet: 185 --> 160
Emulsion Tube 7772.2 --> 7772.6 / 7772.7
Air Corrector: 200 --> 180
Auxillary Venturi: can stay the same
Accelerator Pump Jet: 50 --> 45

Is it really necessary to change all these bits over to the proper ones? What should definitely be changed & what can I probably get away with? Kev, is there anybody in Australia who sells these bits? I'll need a gasket kit as well I spose.

Finally, has anybody used a good polishing product? I wanna make the carb and manifold look the Goods. I've got a dremmel or a 4" angle grinder if you can buff/polish them mechanically???

dewey

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dwightgunning.com