yeah ****** do it yourself

i use "household oil" as found in supermarket...
this is possibly a little thick..... but where the ****** are you supposda get the real shiz


Spaceboy , kindly use the English Language here and stop the creative swearing . <Mod Edit>

yer i went everywhere looking for the real crap but couldnt find any. i tried some sewing machine oil today and it made it have a hesitation. mmmmmmm. gunna try some auto trans fluid tomorrow. but im still interested in why oil has to be think or thin in the dash pot.

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i like to drive on rails

Wow, accurate, concise and straight to the point.

The correct oil is SAE 30. In other words engine oil.
I have found that different engines and different carbies need different oil. When I was running twins on my 1100 I used auto oil in winter and engine oil in summer. It makes a big difference to how it accelerates (or sits coughing and farting) Currently running a single 1¼ with engine oil (HPR30)

Yep it pays to experiment with oilz.
Barney's 1293 has twin HS4s with #6 needles, with 20W/50 in I thought it was going lean when tromped off idle. However use of GR's A/F meter showed it actually going RICH! So we pulled the dampers out and drove it back to the shop, it was fine.
In summer, it runs best with NO oil in them, or the dampers left out- but ATF works good in winter and passable in summer.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

tried a few different oils today found that atf is the go. i also tried no oil but it was struggling to ilde but was excellent while driving. i think i found a happy medium and now it idles smooth and drives good and isnt lean at speed. thanks everyone that helped me get this sorted. cheers matt.

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i like to drive on rails

i had mine running too rich and they had h3 i think it was needles but now im running H6 ones which has even out the mixture for me

play around with some needles go around the block test it out

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