Nice cost saver

Not bad, not bad at all.......

I am trying to think of a way of getting some discs under my race car's 10's without blowing the budget...... and starting with disc uprights is usually the worst bit.

Never really thought seriously about using drum uprights, but now it might be worth doing a design or 2.... Just need to shorten the mounting bracket and machine down the rotors aswell as the pads (I hope)

It all looks alot clearer now. Might even be able to do it all for AU$150....... BEAUTY

Ta!

_________________
[NATHAN] -- Sold everything mini related and am back in big beautiful BMWs

I think i have too much going on inside my head at the moment, and am confusing myself with too many ideas of where this would be.

You have either reduced the diameter of the mounting flange face, or reduced the thickness or something else...... I think the first one was right, but am having trouble seeing what becomes "larger" (unless the flange face is tapered, thinner on the outmost edge and gets thicker towards the driveshaft)

Need_more_alcohol


OH yeah..... final thing..... what's the thickness of the caliper mounting bracket??

Ta.

_________________
[NATHAN] -- Sold everything mini related and am back in big beautiful BMWs

Your first statement is right.

I cut where the red arrows are.




The thickness of the plate is 1/4". I started with 3/8" but the caliper ended up a little close to the disk. 1/4" worked out perfectly.


There is a person out of Canada that sells the kits for 10" rims. I origionally inquired about the kit before decing to make it myself.

Here is the email that was sent to me.

"Hi Sean,
You will get the caliper mounting plates that enables you to mount the
1984 - 1987 Honda Civic calipers and brake pads (which you still need
to buy on your own) and the Honda Civic rotors which i will provide
with all the machine work done if you buy the full kit he machine work
required for the rotors are :
Bore the centre of the disc out to 65.0mm diameter and Machine the
disc down to 7.90" diameter and Re-drill the disc accurately to suit
the Mini stud pattern.4 holes 10.0mm diameter on 4.0" (101.6mm) PCD).
The only thing that you must do is knock the studs out of your
existing drive flange. Set up true in lathe, machine the front of
flange down to 65.0mm diameter. Only take a few thou off the front
mounting face to clean up, where the drum sat and allow the rotor to
sit true. You'll need to get cooper S studs which are longer and a 1
inch spacers. all the things you'll need to get is:
1985 Honda Civic Calipers w/bolts & pads
1 inch spacers
two extra copper washers.
cooper S Studs
The offset is the same as a mini equipped with "S" brakes. The plates
fit onto your existing spindle (were the backing plate from the drum
brakes fit) if you wish to order the basic kit it will cost $300 Cdn.
plus shipping the full kit will cost $500.00 Cdn. plus shipping. This
kit will not fit if you are planning to use stock 10 inch steel wheels
( i know for sure that 10 inch steelies, dunlops & cosmics don't fit
but newer alloys like minilites do). Enclosed is a pic of the kit on
my mini (the spacer is a little larger (1.5 inch) but this was done on
purpose for racing applications) and the plate mounted on the spindle.
if you wish to order please give me you i hope this helps to clarifies
things for you. If you have any questions
please feel free to ask
Tamer"



The only thing that I dont understand is the use of the spacers, I didnt need it for my wheels, but maybe the 10" rims need to be spaced out to clear the calipers....I'm not sure.


Here is a link to his site.

http://joltfreak.tripod.com/



Cheers

-sean

p.s. Is there a turbo on that M3?

That's exactly the same setup as the Civic sets I made up for a few people on here- except they were 9.1" solid discs. Never get up to temp in a mini anyhow.
Good system for 12 or 13" wheels, but after doing a few sets at 7.9" for 10" wheels, I believe too much hacking needed so I don't do those now..
But, I do still have a set of Honda Citys running, inside 10x5 Speedy Hotwires...

<edit> 25mm spacers ARE needed for 10" wheels, and no, steel wheels will NOT fit even then.
With 12" or 13" wheels it depends on what they are. Rover 12x4.5s (Brad's `matic) need about a 28mm spacer, the 12x5 Superlights (Josh's) sit nice with 25mm spacers but will actually fit with none. Track width is then a bit puny though.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hmmm.... well I would still like to make SOMETHING to fit under the 10" widened stockies on my race car.

Thinking that if I could machine down the disc enough, make a shorter calliper bracket, and maybe arch the bottom edge of the pads to clear the flange area...... maybe the whole thing could be made with a low enough profile.

How would you cut/modify the pad shape? Milling machine? Hack saw? Angle grinder?

Any setup that can utilise these otherwise useless drum hubs and uprights would be fantastic.

There is only 1 way to find out - the question is: will it be safe enough.

_________________
[NATHAN] -- Sold everything mini related and am back in big beautiful BMWs

I would modify the pads with an angle grinder. A milling machine would work, but without a rotary table, it would turn out crappy. Besides, you would be suprised how quickly material; is removed from a brake pad with a grinding wheel.

The thing to keep in mind is that a mini is about 1400lbs, and a civic is around 2300 +_ Reducing the size of the pads will decrease the stopping effectiveness, but it will still work fine. My concern would be with pad wear. But thats something you wont know until you try.

I say try it, just make sure your E-Brake works

SC850,
On the couple of Hondas I did for 10" wheels, I cut the pad away with an angle grinder.
You need to do the inside one too otherwise it will overhang the inside of the rotor and wear a step in it.
PM me for more details if you want, but NO, I don't make em anymore.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

As long as I can squeeze them under a steel rim, I'll be happy.

Ive got a few friends who work at some good places so I wont mind having a go myself - if I bugger something up it wont cost me retail to replace it

Sounds good Doc, you'll be hearing from me in the near future.

_________________
[NATHAN] -- Sold everything mini related and am back in big beautiful BMWs

doe's anyone know what model the 87 civic was (The 2 letters EG, EK, etc)

Thanks

_________________
Vtec Mini clubman. Commenced Jan 06.
Still Going June 07

http://s25.photobucket.com/albums/c71/sunburstvl/

As far as I know, EF civics were 88 to 92..... so you / we will want the model before that.

There are heaps of these things getting around - and most of em are stuffed.

There'll be a few in the wrecking yards

The hatch version




The wagon version





The sedan version

_________________
[NATHAN] -- Sold everything mini related and am back in big beautiful BMWs

Ive been looking for the Accord of the same era to get the vented brakes outta. I just want to do the vented. even though I probably don't need it. but other than that the brakes are the same apparently and I am running 13's anyway

_________________
-doing a Degree in Mechanical Engineering,
and a few conversions:
13B Extend in a 1600
4EFTE in a mini ute (all slowly)

Aren't the CIvic discs vented?

_________________
[NATHAN] -- Sold everything mini related and am back in big beautiful BMWs

don't you need drums for your racer, nath?

_________________

Not the 1983-87 ones I'm familiar with. Late ones would be, but I've no idea if they fit. Probably be too big I expect....

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I would if I built it to Mini1000 spec........ but I am leaning towards bolting up that supercharger setup that isnt being used. Or maybe a turbo.

I have basically come to the conclusion that you get more value for money by only going out on practise days - more laps, less $$ SO why not go a bit silly

_________________
[NATHAN] -- Sold everything mini related and am back in big beautiful BMWs