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PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2005 7:01 pm 
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No.. I was saying you can put the rubber cones in hydro ones, just to save swapping your subframes.. :wink:

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2005 9:52 pm 
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Matt68 wrote:
Hey, no fair I claimed em first! :lol: :lol:

I can drive to Brisbane and pick them up too, so you won't even need to put them in a box!! :wink:

Yes, the swap is fairly straight forward, more so if you swap a complete built dry frame in for the wet one at each end.

Don't forget to rebuild the suspension, and get the subframes powdercoated etc. while the dry subframes are out of the car. You will be kicking yourself later if you don't.

Cheers
matt


how much does the powdercoating cost roughly for both subframes?

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2005 6:49 am 
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We get all our conveyors we build at work powdercoated. Look real nice..

However the adhesion of this stuff is pretty suss.. if rocks etc hit it you will lose great hunks of paint off and rust will set in.
I'd do them in POR15, or Killrust, or whatever. Not powdercoat ,unless it's a trailer queen. :wink:

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2005 8:02 am 
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so all you need to convert a hydro car to rubber cones is the rubber cones and the shockers, do you need to make any mods to the subframe, or does it all just fit in. And would the ride and handling be just as good as a full dry set up

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2005 8:53 am 
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72clubman wrote:
so all you need to convert a hydro car to rubber cones is the rubber cones and the shockers, do you need to make any mods to the subframe, or does it all just fit in. And would the ride and handling be just as good as a full dry set up


damnit...said so eloquently! i was gonna ask that :(

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2005 8:54 am 
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sociallydisabled wrote:
Matt68 wrote:
Hey, no fair I claimed em first! :lol: :lol:

I can drive to Brisbane and pick them up too, so you won't even need to put them in a box!! :wink:

Yes, the swap is fairly straight forward, more so if you swap a complete built dry frame in for the wet one at each end.

Don't forget to rebuild the suspension, and get the subframes powdercoated etc. while the dry subframes are out of the car. You will be kicking yourself later if you don't.

Cheers
matt


how much does the powdercoating cost roughly for both subframes?


i got a quote for $140 each...bringing the subframes + sandblast + powdercoat to about $600 all up...not too bad...for good-as-new subframes...

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2005 9:55 am 
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Best idea I can recommend is to get yourself a mini manual, and have a look at the diagrams of how the front suspension goes together.

The only real differences between the wet and dry set up are:

1)Front: Top suspension arms have a different pivot point for the knuckle joint. They also need the shock mounting hole (where the bump stiop is fixed to on wet top arms) drilled out to suit the Shock mounting bolts. You can use the wet top arm with the dry set up with no worries, it is simply a firmer ride than if you used the dry top arm. Don't forget to refit the bump stop!!

2) Front: The wet subframe has mounting lugs in the top of the towers where the hydro bags 'lock' into. These can be modified so ther dry cones can sit in there. I think it would be better to use a dry subframe rather than modify a wet one, as once you mod it for dry there's no changing back. Since there are a lot more dry than wet subframes in the world, the logic is simple.

Call Ken Nelson at Mini Automotive, he might have a lead on some dry 'frames, and he is excellent for pretty much anything mini related.

3) Front, you will need to fit the shock mounts from a dry mini to the captive nuts up inside the guard. This means finding the holes first, cleaning out the crap, then using a tap 1/4" UNC I think, to clean up the thread. (This is also an excellent idea if keeping the wet as it will reduce the 'pitch' under acceleration. Fit rear comp bumpstops and that's even better)

4) Rear, subrames can be modded, as the front. Other changes will see you need to swap the trailing arms, for the dry ones with the shock absorber mount. You will need to change the rear brake line configuration to allow for the dry brake line style.

So, swapping the complete setup for another complete setup is definately the way to go IMHO.

On another note, you mentioned the coil over setup is what you will be going for. Isn't that a complete swap for dry anyway? So what you are thinking of doing is swapping from the wet setup to a coilover setup, not to a dry setup? :? :?

Good Luck

Matt


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2005 10:12 am 
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Matt68 wrote:
On another note, you mentioned the coil over setup is what you will be going for. Isn't that a complete swap for dry anyway? So what you are thinking of doing is swapping from the wet setup to a coilover setup, not to a dry setup? :? :?

Good Luck

Matt


i was unsure if it actually REPLACED the hydro stuff...if so then awesome i'll just grab a set of those and forget the dry subframes :) does anyone know if this is the case? coz i would really like to know what its going to take before i get to the point of actually doing it :P

this is the kit i am looking at:

Image

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2005 5:01 pm 
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You could buy this guy' s set of those coil over shocks (a bit cheaper):

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Coilover-Shock-Kit-Spax-Adjustable-Mini-Coilover-Kit_W0QQitemZ4583825466QQcategoryZ32072QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2005 7:34 pm 
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inazuma,
If you fit that kit in your pic, it replaces all the hydro stuff, or dry cones, the wet subframes U have can be kept unmodified. In case U you wanna go baaaaack.. :lol: :wink:

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2005 11:21 pm 
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drmini in aust wrote:
inazuma,
If you fit that kit in your pic, it replaces all the hydro stuff, or dry cones, the wet subframes U have can be kept unmodified. In case U you wanna go baaaaack.. :lol: :wink:


FANTASTIC! thats what i have been wondering for AGES...thankyou for hitting the nail on the head...i think i'll source some dry subframes anyway...just so i can do a clean build front and back...and have a physical reference to follow (my wet ones that will be almost fully assembled). also makes returning to factory easier :P

would you guys consider wet subframes superior to dry subframes in terms of rigidity, strength etc?

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 21, 2005 7:16 am 
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No, they are all identical really- various bits added. eg dry front one has bumpstops and wet one has displacer mounting lugs..

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 21, 2005 9:08 am 
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drmini in aust wrote:
No, they are all identical really- various bits added. eg dry front one has bumpstops and wet one has displacer mounting lugs..


even better :) and since dry subframes are considerably cheaper...i'll just grab a set of those and mothball my current set. or maybe get a new body and build a mongrel mini out of the bits i have left over after this build...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Oct 21, 2005 10:53 am 
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Only funny front one (on Oz cars) is the MiniMatic- it has a curved front channel, is a little wider & has different engine mounts.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 21, 2005 11:23 am 
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drmini in aust wrote:
Only funny front one (on Oz cars) is the MiniMatic- it has a curved front channel, is a little wider & has different engine mounts.


hehe...auto? where's the fun in that? ;)

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