you know you want to put one of these on kev

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1974 Moke - 998cc
76 Clubman B16a2 Vtec AWD Turbo 12.9@105mph
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9PW49e1hYs

Hmmmm.. nice, but the term `overkill' comes to mind.. and the colour is not period correct either!
Shift light? We don't need no stinkin' shift light..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

You could always point the shift light at your pedals.... so at night time you can see your shoes while shifting!! Im sure its common in automatic rice Honda's......


Seriously now....

does the 1 or 2 degrees difference in advance between the 83 and 85 make a big difference???? I have a 1310 ready for the SC850 shell..... and a modified #83 dizzy on the shelf.....

#85's are hard to find.... so if i CAN use the #83 for now, i will.

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[NATHAN] -- Sold everything mini related and am back in big beautiful BMWs

Fit it. But set the timing for power at max advance, not just idle.
I put a full advance mark on the timing cover. You will probably need 30-35*, (mine runs at 42* as it has `funny shaped' combustion chambers and flat top pistons).

If you find it needs more advance down low, weld the stop lug and file it to reduce total advance- but really I doubt you will have to, it depends how modified the motor is.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I'm interested in dialing in the right timing for these dizzy's.

After I statically timed it to 0* and fired it up the first time I adjusted it by ear. Then drove it around for a couple of days before I got to my mates to try the timing light. It was really kicking arse so I was pretty happy. I did notice that occaisionally I got a weird noise when starting up cold.... I'm pretty sure it was some back pressure (like when the cylinder fires too earlier and the piston wants to go back down the bore in the other direction).

Anyway I finally got the timing light onto it and it was at about 15* on idle. I thought this was pretty high so I've wound it back to about 7*... now it seems to bog down a little when I'm at medium revs and give it a stab of accelerator. So now I'm thinking I should wind it back up a bit if thats not uncommon.

dewey

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dwightgunning.com

I set them so they don't quite kick back (much!) on starting. They do this because they fire from zero rpm on the 1st upstroke- unlike the Lucas points dizzy which needs to be spun more.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Just a couple of question on this one.

Is the power curve produced by the this dizzy altered greatly from the lucus item? My mech is advising to have the dizzy re-mapped to the Lucas specs to be safe but from what I am reading it looks like this might be overkill or even counter productive. The re-map is not that expensive but I don't want to do that if I'm unnessassarily killing the advantage.

Has anyone run one up on a test bed and got figures or graphs of the output?

I suppose the question is... Is it just the reliable fat spark that delivers the performance increase or does it have a differnt power curve that might affect reliability or cause any other wear problems for the motor?

I would bolt it on before you worry about remapping. Most Lucas ones are so worn now they are nothing like they were when new.
Try it, before you touch it... you will be amazed..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Okay.....i have new information (and a question) for this already long topic......

Alot of us have been scouring the scrapyards for the N12 pulsar... knowing that we COULD find a D4R85 or 83 dizzy..... but should we be looking at other donor vehicles aswell?????

It just came to my attention that the 1987 Honda CRX "DX" had a D4R85 dizzy fitted. Could this be the same dizzy as seen in Pulsars? As long as the shaft is the same length/diameter, and the advance curve is the same, we should be right to go with it...... theoretically, yes??

And guess what...... the 2 Litre Nissan Bluebird (CA20S motor) had a D4R85 dizzy too

The only thing that worrys me is the 2 digit code that follows...
The N12 Pulsar is a D4R85-?? (didnt see)
The CRX's i saw had either a D4R85-18 or a D4R85-01
The Bluebird's was D4R85-09 .............those 2 digits are all different....is this a problem?

And just how many OTHER Jap cars had this D4R85 dizzy?

Looks like I need to revisit all those scrapyards....... AGAIN

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[NATHAN] -- Sold everything mini related and am back in big beautiful BMWs

Hitachi dizzy was real popular.
Take dimensions of the Lucas dizzy's body and measure the Hitachi, before you part with $$.
The numbers after the dizzy code refer to the advance weights & springs in it. No I don't know which are best.
Look here- might help..
http://home.att.net/~jason510/dizzy_specs.htm

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I got a pulsar dizzy for christmas, It's a great conversion and the pulsar dizzy is an amazingly good fit. I did it a little different as I made up a aluminium plate that allows me a more convertional timing adjustment using the pulsars adjustment tab. This means the distributor will sit out about 1-2 mm further out will this raise any problems?

Oh the only problem I had was that I kept on mixing up TDC on number 4 with TDC on number 1 so it looked as though I had put the drive dog on 180 degrees out not that it would be a a problem if it was just switch the leads around right Anyway I got it right.
It made a hell of a difference my previous 3 cylinder is now a 4

My father had a look and he thinks he can use the pulsar dizzy on a datsun 1200 so the electronic dizzys might be getting rarer (sorry guys, naturaly I told him they belonged on a mini)

Bye, Arrin

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Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss

I've had the same problem some of you guys have had with the leads pressing against the grille - creating a couple of problems with it rubbing a hole in a couple of my leads and shorting out on the grille.

apart from putting spacers behind the grille to make room, does anyone know if there's any problem cutting 5mm or so off the top of the lead sockets on the dizzy cap?

there's a fair bit of clearance between the contact point and the top of it so i figured it might be ok to chop them back a bit... thoughts??

Geoff

Try it and see - then you can tell the rest of us If it dosen't work you can always buy another cap

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David L


My greatest fear in life is that when I die my wife will sell my Mini and tools for the price I told her I paid for them!

There are also places around that make custom length plug leads - maybe you could get a set made up that are the optimum length without the clearance problems.

KB

I put 10mm spacers behind the S grille at the ends. This gives it just enough clearance.
I also find Bosch leads are more compact than Top Gun etc, and last longer. $5 each at Supercrap.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.