OK, this thread is really meant for Kev and I to discuss the list of items I need to buy/find for this engine rebuild, but I would like opinions from people as well regarding some aspects. I just want to get it down in writing so to speak so myself can refer to this thread and not have to ask so many questions over and over again. So here goes.

My Goal is to get 90-100bhp from this engine, it will be a road car. Reliability is what I will be looking for, so running well for a long time is the goal

I've got a 1275 original bore block with crank bearing caps ready to go on. The bore will definately need a cleanup. I said 1293 Kev slapped me and said go 1360 , there is no substite for CC. So fine I am happy with that. I have a set of Cooper S rods here and will definately bung in Hypertech pistons and ensure that the bolts are new on the con rods before putting them in

I have the choice of 2 heads, one is a late model metro head with cooper S inlet valve sizes, not sure what kev said about exhaust valve size... I also have a regular 1275 1100S head that looks like it is ready to bolt on and run by the looks of it. Which one should I use for this build? Should I go unleaded seats or just not bother and just tear it down and see what the valves are like before spending any money? I would like to put in a GR RE13 cam, double springs and Mini Spares 1.5:1 forged rockers. I also would like to put in Rimflow inlet valves. Then tickle the ports abit and get as much as I can out of the head, realistically, without spending $700 on it

I have a small journal 1275 crank is going in as is. I thought it was a large journal crank so we could stroke it but alass no such luck.

Flywheel side, I have the flywheel off the brocken 1100S which is in good condition, that might have to be lightenned just a little. The clutch and stuff looks usuable and some parts are even new there so no need to spend too much on that side thank goodness. Anything else worth noting here? any other mods worth doing?

On the timing chain side, i might go buy a belt chain kit from Mini Spares belt drive kit instead of using the 3 double row timing chains that I have After a long chat about timing chains I have decided to go belt drive.

Gearbox will be a remote change 4 synchro. I need to buy a remote gb restoration kit? Do i still need that even though the rod change inards look pretty good Kev? Don't forget I have the box that is in Lillee at the moment as well. I definately have to buy a remote cooper S 1st motion gear and a centre oil pickup. Else it looks good in the gears department as I have 3 complete boxes here to play with. I also have the remote arm and at least 2 complete 3.44 diffs. I think I will stick to 3.44 as this will be a road car and I might go for long distance cruises in it. Not 100% sure yet but after a ride in Mini Haha with the 3.6 diff I might change my mind later

Carb will of course be the Dellorto 45 with warneford manifold. Might have to buy diff jets etc and might have to consider working the manifold for those few extra horses.

Exhaust I will just use my 3 into 1 Perrys which are on Barney as well. From the sound of it the LCB gain will be minimal. I will have to read more on this. If I do come across a cheap set of LCBs I might consider a change, buit for now it all looks good.

Then the issue of brakes This is where the project ends before it starts! I need to find myself some 7.5inch S brakes. When I find these eventually, I will start on the build. Until then it seems like a pointless task to build the engine without the brakes!

I also have yet to think about the important things like engine colour and how much bling bling there will need to be in the engine bay

Thoughts people?

_________________
Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Here's a rough list of bits:

New con rod bolts
New 1360 Hypertech pistons + rings
Rimflow inlet valves
RE13 Cam grind
Double valve springs
New followers
Mini Spares 1.5 inch forged rockers
Alloy rocker cover (flat top type)
Flywheel grind
Belt drive kit
Remote GB rebuild kit
Cooper S remote 1st motion gear
Centre Oil pickup
Water pump
Pin drive oil pump
1275 radiator, fan etc
Hoses
Solid state fuel pump
Crank case breather
Speedo cable
7.5 inch S Brakes(!!!) CVs, Timkem bearings, new ball joints, rear S wheel cylinders

Would Likes but don't needs:

Right hand tank
I would like a 120/130 mile/h speedo but not necessary
New wiring harness - that would be good but I think mine is salvageable

That's about it so far. Anything missing?

More importantly can anyone help me out with any of these bits?

_________________
Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

and spaced rear drums if u don't want the track to be all over the place. i have a 120mph speedo for sale if i can see the right price.

_________________
FOR SALE MInidlx, 1293, GR head, RE-13, GR worked Redline Manifold, 45 mm DCOE,pulsar dizzy , "S" Disc's, Mk II "S" box, 3.65 diff. Minator 10X6's On the loose

I have 4 spaced drums on Lillee right now, thanks for the note.

How much?!? PM sent

_________________
Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Doogie has some cooper S brakes for sale at the moment for $1500.

I think you should start to buy the bits and pieces straight away rather than wait until you have the brakes. That way you spread the large wad of cash you will be parting with over a period of time causing less pain - short sharp stabs rather than an excrutiating plunge. There's no harm in building up the block, then sorting out the head etc as long as it is oiled up and stored correctly. I think for medium to long term storage, an engine is best assembled anyway.

I know 1360 is tempting, but if the bores are quite good at a smaller bore, why not go 1310 or 1330 and leave a rebore or two in it?

As you probably know I am currently building a similar spec (but staying 1293) motor, but have forgone the gearbox mods at this stage.

Engine colour is personal choice. My engine was previously chevy orange, this time it is going to be bright red.

KB

i also have a set of double valve springs. and a "s" block and a crank from a 1100s

_________________
FOR SALE MInidlx, 1293, GR head, RE-13, GR worked Redline Manifold, 45 mm DCOE,pulsar dizzy , "S" Disc's, Mk II "S" box, 3.65 diff. Minator 10X6's On the loose

Got any idea how much this is going to set you back?

toper
(soz im a noob )

_________________
~`Topher`~
15years old...but no mini yet

Yeah that's what I said and kev reckons I should just go 1360. The rationale is that I will still have 1380 to go to and the 1360 will run for a good 100,000miles before needing the next bore. That's AGES! It will be a very fun 100,000 miles!

Anyway, blocks aren't THAT hard to find i guess...

_________________
Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Yeah I hear you about the buying dribs and drabs instead of one big hit. No problems there!

My guestimate is probably in the vicinity of $2000 for the engine rebuild minus the labour and brakes, give or take $500

_________________
Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

I am slowly putting together a 998cc at the moment. The best way to store it is to assemble it, oil it, and store it somewhere still (no real drafts...lol) wrapped in a cotton or flannel sheet. I was told by a reputable engineer that the motor will "breathe" whilst covered in the sheet but keeping the dust out. WD-40 is good to keep the rust at bay(just paint it - works for me...). He did say NEVER-r-NEVER wrap it in plastic, tarp or hessian - the motor will seize(god knows how...!!)

The parts are pretty well on the money - the budget is the biggest constraint. I spread all the costs over a LONG period and really made a big difference. But the waiting is killing me let me tell you!!

Good luck with the build - sounds like it will pull tree stumps out when you are done...

Mini On Dude

Rob Forsyth
Miniot!!

_________________
Rob Forsyth
Miniot!!

This thread might help me out aswell Glad it appeared!!

So all the parts you have there will complete a 1275 engine (minus the block of course)

Is putting together a complete engine a fairly straight forward task once all parts are machined and ready to b assembled ? (I have access to all needed tools and equipment)

Im aiming for about $2000 to $2500 for my 1100 rebuild, I may do the gearbox I may not.

My recent total rebuild for the 1360 cost me a grand total of $1,300 for parts, including an orange dot diaphragm, new clutch plate, and ARP rod bolts.. but no labour.
Didn't include the gearbox, which got done recently.

<edit> 1310/71,
If it was an S block I would bore to 1293 or 1310. But, it's only a common 1100S- at 1360cc it still has at least 1, maybe 2 rebores left. That's over 100,000 miles. And 1100S blocks are not real scarce. Might as well have the cubes..

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Slightly off topic.....but is there an appreciable weight difference between say an ordinary 998 or 1098 over a 1275 A friend of mine said he noticed a big difference in weight the other day.....I suppose one could have been ligtened previously.....

_________________
"Show me the Mini!"

There are basically 2 Mini flywheels- early 2 piece, later 1 piece. Pretty much the same weight. Even after lightening..
And there's a heavy one used on overseas 1275s (A/A etc) but I think rare here. Has a thick bit around the outside.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I think he meant the whole engine not just the flywheel Kevster...

No I have one good 1100S block here on std 1275 bore. The one that has a new ventilation hole in the side was an extra one that I picked up. I might find yet another 1275 block before too long so no worries about the block. I am pretty happy going 1360

_________________
Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K