So, I'm looking at getting a Billet steel flywheel for the mini.

Car is a weekend warrior, so im thinking about an Ultralight flywheel. Does anyone have any recommendations etc about these? I'm thinking 4kg shouldnt be too light, and it will rev nicely.

I have heard bad things about minispares flywheels, and that MED ones are good. Can anyone confirm this?

I was going to lighten the standard cast one, but the steel ones arent that expensive (only a couple hundred more than lightening would cost) and will give me some piece of mind.

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Mini - The Wizardry on Wheels!

Some claim they're too light for a road car but methinks those are just people who haven't tried one. I think there were some issues with earlier MS ones but I have one and no issues what so ever.

I have used Minispares (UK) flywheels and MED flywheels. The MED product is far superior IMHO.

Freight will be about the same for a bare flywheel as for the whole assembly, so think about that as an option too!!

Don't go with a slotted cast iron flywheel, (AKA a lightened standard one, lightened too far) asking for trouble with those.

Cheers

Matt

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68 Deluxe.... it's shiny..... I like shiny!!

Wasn't the issue that the flywheel was warped from the factory at the time?

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Mick, the Doc had experience with one with way too much run-out. Other than that I've heard nothing other than "my mate knew someone who met a guy..."

Matt- what was superior?

There was also a thread on MiniMania forum this year about some UK `too light' steel ones breaking near the hub, lots of allegations and innuendo but no names mentioned on whose they were.
Just be careful what you buy .
It it looks too light, really it probably is.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

i can tell by own experience the an ultra-light flywheel don't work well for me in my 998ccm with proven 65 HP. its a pain in city traffic and only a bit better on the open road. but its a "race-only" part in a fast road engine so maybe a "normal" lightened flywheel will be more usable.

and i have seen pics of a MS flywheel where the center just broke away, it looked like a pressed in part that fit to the crank

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Rover 214 atm ....

I used an ultra light steel 1 piece flywheel sourced from the UK in early 90's for some years and on every occasion had significant drama getting the thing off the crank . There was some clutch shudder also. I know how to set up clutches and fit flywheels but didn't matter.

Then there was talk about runout on these units so got it checked and sure enough had quite a bit. Don't know though if the runout may have been caused by the extreme pressure applied by the puller or there originally.

It was so much of a pain to get off, I had a 2 piece steel flywheel made by my friendly machinist that uses the std bolt in 2 piece centre. It is slightly heavier than the UL job but I have never had a problem getting this flywheel off. Cost me about the same as purchase of UL job.

Believe the design of UL flywheel has been improved more recently, going away from the 3 big slots.

Anyone want to buy a "used only on Sundays" UL flywheel?

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Steve

the issue with the ultra light flywheels is they tend to travel up the crank nose.

I had a ultra ultra light flywheel it was 2.9kgs and in my last race it decided to disintergrate out of the bell housing in 2 places about 30deg short of a sex change, it was the ring gear that let go as it was a machined part of the flywheel then took a pice of the flywheel with it.

road flyhweels are great at around 4.5-5kgs and race at aboput 3.5/
they are being locally made here and are available for between $450 and $550 +gst.

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www.minicranks.com add me to your watch list and come back again soon, under construction.

If it is a road warrior, don't bother. Spend the money elsewhere. A properly lightenned std flywheel is fine for the application.

Spend the money on say... the head

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

I heard there is also issues with steel fly's friction welding themselves to the crank?

KAD uk do an alloy fly with a cast iron centre to combat this.

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Mini - The Wizardry on Wheels!

Fitting a ultralite steel flywheel is probably the best mod `I have made to my 1380. It's an early Minispares item with the 3 large slots. The only issue I've ever had, is as above the flywheel pulling itself up the crank taper. This caused a strange vibration at around 4500rpms. This has now been sorted by a tip from a friend on a new regime during assembly, the flywheel is now tightened using the CUP of TEA method.
Assemble everything but don't bend over the lock tab, go make a cup of tea and drink it. In the meantime the flywheel pull up the taper. After drinking said cuppa go back and re-tighten/torque the flywheel. Honestly you'll be amazed at how slack it is.

Ha ha, will this work for other beverages?

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

Does anyone have a "cup of Tea" to "Carton" conversion? (I am from SW Sydney you know).

i.e. 1 Cup of Tea = 2/24 Cartons??

DOZ

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Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

Won't work with a tinny Mick, doesn't take enough time to get to the fridge