hey guys been around some minis for a while and i hav finally purchased a 1310 (mk1 1275)to put into my beast (from a member here), i will be supercharging (sc12) it but currently has a high compression cam setup (timing belt) but with dished forgies and decompression head gasket.. i just read here that alot of people are using a re-13t cam? should i try get one of these and install before i start to run my new motor in, and also i havent done the head work yet what do you guys recommend getting? since supercharging was just thinking mild port and just hardened valves as will be running boost so shouldnt really have to get huge valves. also another problem i have just found is that the lightened push rods that came with the motor seem to be about 1cm too short? any idea if they maybe for a 1100 instead or something?
also i will be needing an upgraded radiator do you recommend a high flow 2 or 4 core? (clubman) i will have a few other q's but thats all i can think of at the moment as it took 4 weeks to get allowed onto the site lol

yeah the re-13t is a good choice for a weekend warrior type
put it in before you run your motor in.

i figured the same thing about the head, port n polish and unleaded seats.
You can go one further by reshaping the combustion chambers but my budget was already exceeded by $2000 so i didnt.

watch your compression ratio, you dont want it too high. you want low compression pistons or a large combustion chamber. also a couple of us are running decompression plates, but they can leak.

you will definately need uprated cooling, i am running a 2-core with an additional thermo fan and an oil cooler and i plan on running a heater core behind the grille also plumbed into the water cooling system.

higher boost will require water injection as intercooling is not possible with this setup as the fuel and air are mixed before being compressed.

and welcome to the forum

pm the user 92 if you have any questions about the kit, as he is the designer, manufacturer and distributor of the famed "sc-12 mini kit"

I've been driving mine daily for some time now.

I believe uprated cooling is important. But no need to go overboard. A UK 2core radiator, oil cooler (not sure if the NEEDED but I think it's a good idea), expansion tank, thermo fan, with switch to come on when motor gets hot. Is the required setup in my opinion. I don't believe a heater core behind the grille is nescessary but, better be safe then sorry!

Compression.

That's an interesting and very debateable part of boosting. Metro Turbo came stock with a 9.4 to 1 conmpression, quite high for a boosted car. Not sure exactly mine, but it does have lower-than-stock compression pistons, so my guess for my car is about 9:1 maybe a bit higher. In this case you got to think about igntion timing and fuel. I ALWAYS use 98 ron. Never tried lower octane on this motor, don't believe it's worth the risk. And have my Nissan dizzy set at about 5 degrees BTDC, should check it though the tuner did adjust it.

Water Methanol injection to me, is really a race car thing. I'm not taking the development of my engine any further, moving onto engines designed for boost.( ).

I'd say though, if you got the money, go ported head, bigger valves, RE-13T cam, more boost (larger crank pulley), low compression (about 8:1), water-methanol injection.

Should make some serious power, just treat the gearbox with some respect!

Should see over hp atws with that setup! For comparison, I got 74hp atws running rich, with 'dodgy' ignition, running an otherwise stock Cooper S engine, with SC12 kit pretty much, not bad ay! I've seen similiar power from N/A 1275s with much work done to them!

Bolt on performance, woohooo!

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

With the head, I would pay more attention to the exhaust runners when porting the head rather than the intake runners. The intake runners have boost forcing the air and fuel mix to get into the cylinder whereas the exhaust only has the piston rising to the top of the stroke to push all that extra air and fuel out.

Thus by porting the exhaust a little more than the intake it should be able to breathe a little better.

My 2c.

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"In two years time your car will be like a lady's clothes, out of date, my car will still be in fashion when I am dead" - Sir Alec speaking to Pininfarina

blownminiturbo has already ordered a sc-12 kit from 92 (i ordered it for him as he is my cousin)

from what i know.... the engine that will be running the sc-12 has a 649 cam installed.. aswell as a hell of alot of goodies...

so probably the question is... 649 Vs RE13t

Isnt too big on the exhaust ports bad, I mean, for turbo (likewise for supercharging) you want the air-speed to increase not the total amount of air volume?

This is as much a question as a statement (if thats possible)

Peter

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Click here for the Turbo Conversion Thread!

better find out if the 649 is suitable for boost, cos if it isnt then get rid of it.

heat is a huge problem with forced induction, i would do anything you can to increase the capacity and ability of your cooling system.

standard cooper S ran an oil cooler and didn't have forced induction so i would most definitely fit one.

you want an uprated clutch to handle the extra power also.

they use to race cooper S tho

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Current Ride : Toyota Trueno AE86

mini parts for sale http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=42247

the previous owner has built this engine up to be a supercharged engine... but sold it before he had completed everything....

maybe talk to Graham Russel about the options....

I don't believe heat is a HUGE problem, my car never goes over half way up the guage, when thrashing, stays at 1/3 whilst cruising.

Summer might be a different story, but I did get some driving done towards the end of summer and wasn't a problem at all.

It was not so good, until I fitted the expansion tank (it's a big one too!!!) which cured the problems.

About cams....

649 cam is a full race cam, according to Vizard.

I don't think it will be a very good idea. Usually, from what I've raed full race cams don't suit boosted car.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

From what it sounds, accoridng to 'how to modify your mini' the 649 sounds impressive.

Power comes in with a bang at 4000rpm. Yummmm. That would accent the charger very nicely, giving you a huge rush of power, but as I said I don't think full race cams are suited to boosted, but it's so as crucial with supercharged engines as with turbos.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

Lose the 649, way too much overlap for a boosted car.
Sell it for a squillion on eBay if it's a real(factory) one.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

the doctor has spoken....

aaron... re13t sounds good... and keep the 649...(for me later!!!)

EDIT//

Vizard says..

649 (Part C-AEA 648)

inlet at BTDC 50*
cam lift .315"
inlet period 300*
exhaust period 300*
valve lift . 394"

Nice!

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

but you're running a substantial increase over the standard cooling. A comp 2 core with an additional thermo fan
i'd be interested to see what would happen with just a standard rad.

whats carl running?