hey everyone .... i have a 1098 which is quiet standard besides the HS4 carb and the high flow air filter..... i am about to get extractors and 1.75'' exhaust system put on it and a alloy intake.. will this give noticeable peformance when set up properly

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@#$%Things are not what they used to be
Missing one inside of me
Deadly loss, this can't be real
Cannot stand this hell I feel
Emptiness is filling me
To the point of agony
Growing darkness taking dawn.

Yes

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"Show me the Mini!"

You want to make ur 1100 breathe as good as possibile as this is what most mini engines seems to lack. So your pretty well right on. Extractors, 1.75 inch exhaust, straight thru muffler and say a 2ich tip for looks and sound. Thats the exhasut end taken care of. Inlet time. Performance filter (not really needed, more for looks than actaul performance..) and a better manifold.

<edit> just read you already have performance filter.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

yeah you should notice an increase in power (for a stock-ish 1100, depending how bad your exhaust is now, you may see up to 5 bhp at the wheels) as the reduction in back pressure that a decent preformance exhaust will give you will reduce pumping losses (the effort it takes the piston to force out the exhaust)

the up side to this is with a decent performance exhaust you will also see an improvement in your fuel economy with a good exhaust you get to have your cake and eat it too

and yeah a performance filter is a very worthwhile improvement... the stock filters are less than ideal... IMO K&N are the bees knees but there are others who have their own views... but no matter which air filter you use just make sure you've got some sort of ram tube at the inlet of the carb to promote good air flow many backing plates for many air filters lack this and the sharp edge often present will reduce air flow which may offset any benefit offered by the 'performance' filter

so how much for the alloy manifold, extractors and 1.75'' exhaust system. i was having a guess of about $600...

_________________
@#$%Things are not what they used to be
Missing one inside of me
Deadly loss, this can't be real
Cannot stand this hell I feel
Emptiness is filling me
To the point of agony
Growing darkness taking dawn.

alloy manifold will set you back about $150 new.. but if you ask around you may find one second hand for less...

a set of extractors between $120 and $250... $120 will get you a set of the short 3 into 1 types (fine on a small budget and small power output) and the upper end of the spectrum would be something like maniflow LCB (long centre branch)...

but you'll see the biggest gain from a high efficiency exhaust which you could buy from a mini tuner or have made for you by a competent exhaust centre

I would say spend the money right the first time and get a set of maniflow LCB's.

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You will only get limited extra power whilst your cam and head remain stock.
1098s go real well with a cam around 270* duration, and a bit of a tickle in the 202 head and a set of Cooper valve springs will work wonders too.
You can change cam in the car on a 1098, whilst head is off.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

None of any of the above will work without some Dyno time! freeing up the flow of air into and out of the 'pump' (that's all and engine is). wont do squat without fuel mixture and timing optimisation

Sorry to be a smartarse!

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Sir Alec! we are not worthy!

what exactly is the rough cost of dyno tune (dizzy setting and needle selection)?

I have an 1098 as well, just a bit of a tangent. I thought with setting the dissy timing you were supposed to advance it till it pinged then back it off just a little.

I run 95 and i cant get mine to ping anywhere, if i advance too far it just runs like skippy.

is there another rule of thumb?
*cowers away*

Maximum advance under load is lots more important than whatever it happens to be at idle. You can burn pistons or do other damage if it's way wrong.

I turn the motor to near TDC on #1 cylinder, then I put a pushrod in the plug hole and a dial gauge in the top of pushrod. I do this keeping the pushrod as vertical as possible. Then turn the crank until dial gauge reads max.
I then paint a mark on the bottom radiator shroud bolt and put a TDC mark on the crank's harmonic balancer, in line with it.
Then, wind the motor backwards and put another mark 31mm before the TDC one. ie this mark will be on firewall side of the TDC mark. This mark will be the 30 degree FULL centrifugal advance point.
I do this by wrapping a thin 6" steel rule around the balancer.
If using a tin pulley, I'm not sure if diameter is the same- all my motors run the 1 piece balancer. Do your own trigonometry if you use one.

OK, now just hook up a strobe timing light, pull the vac line off the dizzy, start and rev motor until you reach full advance.
Turn dizzy as required to align the 30* mark with the radiator shroud bolt mark.
Refit vacuum line if used.

A metal pointer instead of the shroud bolt mark would be nice, I made a sheet metal one for HaHa which attaches to the front engine plate bolt.

<edit> I find most warmed up Minis work well at 30* with premium unleaded fuel.
If you want more or less, just measure the pulley diameter and do the sums, remembering 1* is 1/360 of the circumference.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

i'd budget about $600-$1000

the car will have bucketloads more power and driveability

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Mew

hey, once he(and soon me ) get the exhaust system, how do i connect the extractors to the pipe to the muffler? is it welded or bolted together?
sorry for noob question, i havent stuck my head under the mini that far to see yet....

It's all dependent on what combination of exhaust and extractors you're using.