Looking to make a quick rack. Is there any interchange of rack and pinion known?

not sure...

I only seen full racks for sale around the 240 mark new..

Oz racks were all 2.2 turns lock to lock. Same as UK Mk1.
UK `Mk2 on' racks are 2.7 turns lock to lock. they got a couple more rack teeth = tighter turning circle.
Quickracks are 2.2 turns, but I dunno whether they are just less teeth on rack like a Mk1, or really a different ratio = more teeth on pinion.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

UK quick racks are a different ratio. I put one on Mokesta when the standard rack wore out and now the indicators don't turn off automatically. I never turn the wheel enough to make them click back. All good fun but allows much more kick-back on bumps and nut suitable for the wife to drive any more due to effort involved.

You'll be interested to know that you also require the (longer?) different steering arms that bolt onto the upright.
They are different between the two types of steering rack.

that is all.

Yep he is correct

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

They are not longer, but at a different angle. The back end is in about 6mm different position to Oz or MK1 type.
Should be used on all replacement UK Mk2 type racks too but people here can't be bothered or don't know this.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Pretty much can't be bothered ..you got rid of the pair i was going to take!

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

so which would be better for big wheels say 13 by 7s or doesnt matter and is it easier for someone to replace a rack while the engine is out

A standard aussie rack would probably be best, or a replacement UK one..a quickrack would make it excessively difficult with the 13x7 contact patch...depends on how heavy you want your steering?

Much easier to replace rack with engine out..subframe needs to be dropped at the back to get the rack out..

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Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

ok thanks ill get it done while the subby and engines out then cheers

yep yep yep..if the engine is out..do it now

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Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

Hey Doc, What's the deal with the different upright steering arms? If they are no longer, they would have the same effective wheel rate. If the position is different vertically to the Aust ones, then they would just affect bump steer. If their end position is different horizontally to Aust ones, then they would affect Ackerman angles, maybe to compensate for different rack length in UK racks?
My new rack went in with no problems, so the tie rod end cone geometry is the same. What is the difference between arms, and why should/would I change? (I have Rover uprights here so changing is easy.)
Mark.

Yes the Ackerman angle is different. (see, I know what this means...)
I believe it relates to wheel angles at full lock. Lock is tighter with the Mk2 etc rack.
For driving about, probably it's no big deal to keep the Mk1/Oz arms.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Has anyone tried swapping the guts with another car??

Gemini...Dihatsu?

The cheapest source of good parts are always from non minis.

My mini has a list as long as your arm.