heya there...

Ive owned my 1978 clubman S for two months now..and love it.
So like most mini fans, already started plans for the future.

Im running a standard 998 at the moment..LCB, RC40, single SU,ramflow airfilter.
About a month before the mini, i bought a morris 1100..$180

Has a 'recently rebuilt' 1098cc. worked great..till i relocated the SU to my mini.lol.
the morris 1100 is AUTO...so the block needs to be changed a little

i want some more power and freshness under the bonnet of the mini..what do i do..

the 1098 has a 12G295, under that, seems like a fresh bore (65mm wide)..and slightly dished mowog pistons (must be crap CR).

your advice please....

thanks

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1978 Leyland clubman S.
998cc

You could rebiuld the 1098 into the 998 block from your clubby 998 and 1098 are the same block (would save modifying the block). The 12G295 is a good head and probably doesn't need much porting etc maybe get flat top pistons or skim the block to raise the CR.

LCBs and RC40 are good extractors and muffler, keep them, maybe sort out a better inlet manifold (what have you got on it).

Oh and a pulsar dizzy

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Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss

I would keep the 998 in the clubby, take the 12G295 head and put it on. Also get a cam grind, something like the RE13 cam that every one loves.

Leave the rest as it is.

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And get a 12G202(cheap) and another carby and put it on the 1100 so you can keep it going, They are a car too and deserve to be saved

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Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss

The Morris 1100 auto is a rare car. Fix it up!

True.
If you want an 1100 crank to make a stroker 998 (to 1098) just ask here. I'm sure there are still a few about...
ps. you would need 1100 pistons too.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

mmmm a bit to think about..

the Morris is rusted out and has huge font end damage..luckily nothing to the engine.

i was thinking 1100 crank..12G295..flat top pistions (1100)..id need to get new ones anyway for the CR..oh and a decent cam.

But what block, my mehcanic, Cono from perths minicraft, tells me the present one is more likely to have more damage as its a manual..easy to hurt it or something..lol

but today, after a quick inspection of the 1098 enigne....i feel a slight lip where the first piston ring ends the top stroke...not a full circular lip in most cylinders...this rule it out?

hmmmm.

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1978 Leyland clubman S.
998cc

If the body is stuffed I will forgive you! as long as you remove the Automatic badge off the boot and post it to me. Because my car is missing the badge!

I would go with the block that needs the least amount of work.

dont think it came with the badge...sorry...
got all the original paper work and manual tho..lol

mmm but which block is likely to need the least work..any guesses??

the 1098 has the tiny lip....the 998, well....not taking the head off to check..haha.

btw, im running 1.5 inch SU...standard manifold i think, newish tho.

cheers for the replys guys...much better than the site for my yacht.

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1978 Leyland clubman S.
998cc

Don't forget that 1100 auto block is different in the oilways. It needs some drilling done to work on a manual box.
PM me for details if you decide to do it.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

yeh..i know it needs the drilling and stuff...my mechanic said he can do it...

wat im not sure about is the lip in the 1098.
its where the first piston ring reaches the top. the piston reaches flush with the top of the block..this is ok, yes??
its a Minor lip i can only feel with my finger nails..

wats the deal.

what would be cheaper (if that 1098 sounds ok)...a bore out of the 998, or drilling of oil ways in the 1098..

sorry if im not very clear...

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1978 Leyland clubman S.
998cc

If you can feel a definite lip in the bore, it needs a rebore and new pistons, IMO. The bores are now oval and/or tapered.

A new set of rings is only a stopgap measure.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

It sounds like possibly both blocks may need a rebore (the 998 possibly not) so if you go for the 1098 then you need:
rebore
drill oils ways
new pistons, rings etc
shave block?

if you go the 998:
rebore (maybe)
new pistons rings etc
shave block?

so I expect that using the 998 block would involve less work but this is a guess based on what you have said it might also depend on what size pistons you can get.

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Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss

kool kool, thanks for the advice..

seems im likely to just go and rebore the 998..throw in some 1100 pistons and crank.

the block isnt likely to crack is it?? lol...

just freeking out as a friends has a 15cm crack..its a mitsubishi tho..lol..had a bit of work done, and SPLIT it went.

any sugestions in pistons and size?? taking in mine flat top.

thanks for the speed in reply..

K-Bar

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1978 Leyland clubman S.
998cc

Move over the head too....



The size will be dependant on how big you do an overbore which will depend on how many overbores have been done before and how badly worn the bores are, you can't know this until you have the block out and take it too you machining guy. Then you start looking for pistons.

I don't know much about what are good pistons etc and wether 1100 pistons come with flat tops or not, if they don't you can raise the CR by shaving the block

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Roads need more corners
A Deluxe(CG13DE), 2 Clubbies(998 and 1275) and 2 Morris 1100Ss