Hi guys was looking through the pile of mini parts dad had been hoarding and came across this. It's from Oz but I've not found any information on it. Fits straight on to an A+ motor and doesn't seem to be modified at all. Did the last mokes come with such dizzys? It's electronic very similar to the t4t model used in the Nissan vannettes.

Trying to get the bugger to fire up and nothing's happening. Giving it another go today. It's brand new can't see what's wrong.

Any trouble shooting tips?







Cheers

Looks much the same as a Nissan D4R83 or 85. Commonly retrofitted to Minis.
Honda Civic and 1.6L Subaru used similar ones too.

You cannot static time these (Hitachi built?) dizzies like with points, they have to spin (even slowly) to give a spark.
I would line up the 10 deg BTDC timing marks on the motor, turn the dizzy body clockwise until the rotor is pointing at #1 plug lead, clamp it then crank it over. If it starts, hook up the timing light.
If no start, check the dizzy is not installed 180deg out. Easiest way to tell is swap all 4 plug leads 180deg in the cap.

Enjoy..

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks doc tried spinning still no action. Do these need a condenser to make a spark?

Is there a way to check if the module is ok or not?

No condenser needed.
There are 2 wires- blue? and black/white usually.
On a Pulsar one, blue goes to `-' on the coil and black/white goes to `+' on the coil.




I bench test them by putting a plug lead + plug in the coil, and ground the plug to the coil bracket.
Connect as in pic above, I use jumper leads. + to the coil and - to the coil bracket. Also connect a wire from the coil bracket to the dizzy body.
Spin the dizzy shaft clockwise looking at drive dog end (ie anti-clockwise from above) and it should spark the plug.

If all else fails, post or bring it to me and I'll test for nix.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Nice schematic:-)

Haha, it was a quick and dirty Biro sketch to help out someone in Melbourne with a pulsar dizzy.
In engineering, I used to use CADKEY, a long time ago. Then my employer decided we all had to move onto Autocad. Didn't retrain us properly. It made as much sense to me as calculus does.. So I didn't use it.
I'm retired now. Not worth learning something so frustrating for infrequent use, so I use the `sketch and scan' method.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

The SAS method eh...Well you are probably also quite familiar with the CAD method too....."cardboard assisted design".

Nah, it's MADMAM...: manual assisted design, manual assisted manufacture...

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Hi doc tried your method already no luck. Absolutely no spark.

Also tried the test light method, ground one end and contacted both positive and negative of coil and saw pulsing on both. So the switching circuits seems to work. Although, I thought switching should only happen on the - end??

Now I want to connect the coil directly to a plug. This eliminates the rotor and distributor cap. If there is a spark I can isolate the issue to the cap and rotor.

Do you guys use a standard coil or a high energy one? Ballast resistor or not?

Cheers

Rosh

It will work with a std 12V coil, any one will do.
Pulsar dizzy ran a `resistor' coil without resistor when installed. But a stock 12V coil works fine too.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

One of the most frequent mistakes made by people when fitting these Jap distributors is that they presume that Black Wire is negative .... and Blue Positive. Bang... End of Module life.

_________________
DID I MENTION THAT I AM THE BEST SUPPLIER FOR MINI ELECTRICAL PARTS AND REPAIRS?
"Let us remove your "SHORTS"