ok Guys, I need a new rack for the brick.... the left wheel is moving just too much and its "knocking"
Now, somthing i noticed when i stuck this rack in is that the tie rod ends only just get enough threads to hold properly ("S" brakes)

Did the "S" have a longer rack, or different tie rod ends ?

Also, is there a preferred rack to get ? - Whats the Karcraft one like ?

J

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'S' have longer steering arms. Use any Oz rack not the english racks. The Aussie are ones are what the english call quick racks. A rebuilt exchange rack will cost around $180.00

James,
Could be a UK rack, Mk2 or later. Steering arms used are different angle to all Oz arms, and the rack gives sharper turning circle and more turns lock to lock. See how many turns it is- 2.25 approx is Oz (Mk1 type) rack, 2.7 is UK Mk2 & later.

If you mix these racks & arms the geometry is out, but nobody seems to give a rat's... maybe they don't know.

BTW here in Oz there are 2 arms, the early 850 etc and the thick Cooper S(& all later). Both have Mk1 geometry. S ones are just `thicker'.

If you really need to use that rack I have 2 only, UK Mk2 arms here..
Don't all trample me in the rush...

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

i fitted a karkraft one to RED850 and it is fine i am not too sure on the lock to lock but it feels great and fittied up with plenty of thread left for the tie rod ends to go on.

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100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing

Thanks Grant... I Might just grab that one....
Its that or trial fit all the racks in the back-yard.... not fun ....

J

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your right deff not fun, i had two or so spare and i pulled them apart and checked but at the end of the day the job sucked bad so i just went for a new one.

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100% Pure A Series Turbo
Morris - The Original RedBull Racing