Hi guys,
1st post so excuse my ignorance. I've been oversea's for too long and my mini is in dire need of some love.
Before i left i did the whole 1100 rebuild thing and threw brand spanking discs under her so it would pull up a little better.
Now i'm back and am chasing more balls (in the car). And have my heart set on 1310-1330 with a nice head (which i am happy to work on myself once this Vizard book that everyone is raving about gets delivered) nice cam etc. Note, my gearbox was fairly good from last recollection, and i have found a 3.44:1 diff to throw in.
I'm currently in the dilemma where i see bare blocks floating around for $100 - $500ish and then already bored block + head + cam (condition apparently good) for $1200 and even further a bored block, pistons, crank flywheel distr.(with plenty spent) for $1700.
SO, getting on from the rambles to the questions..

1) What parts from the 1100 can i bring to the new engine? (i.e. flywheel, distributor, radiator etc. and i do understand the crank, pistons and cam arent any good to me)
2) Am i dreaming to think i can get a sweet engine in my beast for 2.5k?
3) Are there different sized 1275 blocks? (people throw around big block, small block - i had never known there to be different sized 1275's)
4) Going on those mentioned prices and the equipment i already have in my car, which route should i take?
-source bare block for reco, find head for work at home, buy cam etc.
-get an already reco'd engine and bolt her up.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, AND i wish i had found this site before i left, its a freakin wealth of knowledge!

1. Flywheel, distributor, radiator, cam (narrower lobes but still works), rocker cover.
2. If you are lucky, or can do the rebuild yourself.
3. All 1275 blocks are the same physical size, when we say `big block' we mean `big bore' ie not a 998/1098.
An S block has tappet side covers, all the other 1275s don't.
4. I've found it cheapest in the past to source 1275 bits separate rather than a complete motor. If you buy a runner be aware it may well need a rebuild to `run' properly so unless recent overhaul details are available don't pay heaps for it.
Sometimes you can pick up a seized non-runner 1275 that's been standing for years, cheap. A rebore, crank grind etc will sort it all out.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Without confusing the big bore, small bore Doc, it is probably worth mentioning that within the 1275's there can be small journal or large journal cranks - not sure if that might be what he is referring to?

As Doc mentioned, best to find as complete an engine as possible, that needs a rebore and start from there once you know what you have. Sometimes people's definition of a rebuilt motor that you buy will vary and the best way to know what you've got is to either do it yourself, or be involved in the process of having someone else do it for you.

3K would be the cost of a rebuild with mods, on an engine you already own in my opinion. Even rebuilder 1275 seem to go for $500 or so these days.
KB

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Thanks lads,
i'm going to go the many parts route. The only other problem i have is, while its normal to see blocks and heads floating around and pistons are pretty easy to buy... where do i get push rods and con rods etc from(apart from the ones listed @ $2,050 on minisport) I dont generally see people putting them up for sale.

Is an EN40B crank fine for what i want (1330 ive decided)? if not where do i find the right one?

When getting a recon done to the block, is it cheaper to supply all the parts i.e. bearings, pistons etc or can those blokes (or women) get better prices?

I've been reading through a heap of posts, and drmini you are like the mini jesus or something. You have an answer for everything, good work.

Mate.... if you are using a big J crank, I have big J A+ rods (With ARP bolts to go with them), and 40 thou oversize pistons - 1310.

How much Mr William?
I'm yet to decide if I go 1310 or 1330 myself.
Are the pistons new or S/H, what brand?
KB

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a second hand en40b crank will take more then $500 out of your budget

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real men race downhill - keiichi tsuchiya

Depends where you look and who you know. My local Mini specialist hooked me up with a .000"/.000" EN40B for my 1380cc for $275, crack tested and reground to .010"/.010". It's amazing what you can find in barns But yes, before that one was found, I was looking at nearly $1.5k for a new EN40B or around the $500-$750 for a .020"/.020" second handy...

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-Wasabi
1972 Clubman - Daily Driver
1962 850 - EW1 Powered

Awesome,
Will conrods make it from a 1100 to 1275? or am i dreaming again.
12g940 head in avo condition so i can play with it.
This vizard book is the bomb!

Cheers

1098 rods won't fit any 1275.
But... if you get a 1275 big journal crank (late 1100S, 1275LS etc) I have a good set of 1100S rods to suit it, cheap. PM me if you want em.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.