Hi have just put my 40 DCOE weber on my 1098 engine and started it up, once it finally started it would idle at around 2500 rpm, then when you push the accel pedal it would spluuter, and then still idle high again, i adjusted the two screws above the butterflys, and also the one that adjust idle by opening the throttle butterflys, none of these seem tho change the idle speed. does anyone know what this could be, this is my first time usung a weber

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77 Leyland Clubman
1293cc, LCB extractors, pulsar dizzy (recurved), cooper s disc brakes, 40DCOE Weber

it will require jetting to run with your engine. dyno time or a carby guys who knows his stuff at a minimum. i wouldn't try and run it as if it's leaning out it will total your engine very quickly.

Webers and Dellortos have one fundamental difference to most carbs-
The 2 idle mixture screws control FUEL, not AIR.
So, screwing them out makes it richer, not leaner..

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

i have checked with a few people and all the jets and setup of the weber are close enough for my engine specs to get it running, i have a pulsar dizzy which now that the weber is on i dont have the vac advance plugged in, does this mean i need to reset the timing now. My dizzy is also getting sent to grahram russel this week for a re graph, should i tell him to remove the vac advance or is it fine to stay how it is. also could the fast idle be due to something being blocked in the weber, i let the weber soak in carby cleaner for around 24 hours then cleaned it all with compressed air

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77 Leyland Clubman
1293cc, LCB extractors, pulsar dizzy (recurved), cooper s disc brakes, 40DCOE Weber

On a Pulsar the vac advance can etc is OK to leave there if no vac used. Mine has run like that for years.
No the timing is set (should be) with the vac hose OFF, if you are running vac advance. Impossible to set right otherwise, the vacuum pulls it around rapidly just above idle.

Best way with ANY dizzy is find what max advance it needs/wants (usually around 30*) and then rev the motor to 4000+ until advance has reached max, and set it there.

This is regardless of whether GR has modded it, or not. The mods just pull up the low/midrange advance, giving more torque and better economy.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I've had a problem similar to this before... I'd put the carby on and no matter where I set the idle adjustment it would still idle high... I'd just put to much tension on the accelerator cable when I put it in so the butterflies would never close... maybe try taking off your accelerator cable and see what happens???

miniobsessed thanks it was just the weber throttle wheel i just needed to grind a bit off where the idle speed screw hits the tab on the throttle wheel. Ahh the weber where have you been all this time, i cant beleive how much better the car goes, it feels like heaps more torque and revs much faster, i am just getting a big splutter at 1200 to 1900rpm then it goes sweet as, i need a dyno tune and change my timming from 2deg btdc to around 7-8 btdc, just got wait to get the dizzy recurved now

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77 Leyland Clubman
1293cc, LCB extractors, pulsar dizzy (recurved), cooper s disc brakes, 40DCOE Weber

Thats right..... check the basics first. Jets can be a fair way out but you should be able to return to a reasonable idle setting. Check the cable first that it is not too tight. Also some linkages ( ie.with the cuved tab that the idle screw makes contact with) ...can bottom out on the body, not allowing it to return to idle. If this is the case it just needs filing down a bit. ......... possibility ???

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62 Saxon Green 850
Clubby van

.......missed by that much !

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62 Saxon Green 850
Clubby van