OK... this is getting me confused

I've got a 1275 from an LS I'm trying to fit onto my 998 (moke) A+ gearbox. All I should have to do is find a 1275 A+ primary gear to match the teeth on the A+ idler and things should be sweet ?? or no??

Now people telling me there are different numbers of teeth on 1275 A+ primarys. So how do I know the right one.

Had someone count the teeth on my 998 A+ primary, idler and input/gearbox drive gear and they are 39,37 and 29 respectively (I think that might be a bit suspect??)

What the hell is right??

TasTyger

Should be the same number of teeth for primary and input gears otherwise you lose 1:1 ratio but can be different, see below.

Don't know all exactly for A+ (what the numbers are) but this is what I've got:-

Rod change up to 79 - Idler 31 teeth and 1st Motion/Primary 24 teeth
Rod Change after 79 - Idler 37 teeth and 1st motion/Primary 29 teeth (A+ included)

There is an economy primary gear for A+, this is 30 teeth.

It's not just the number of teeth, but the gear angles are different as well, make sure you have the correct set.

Cheers

Daniel

_________________
Videos - Turbocharged A-Series on Dyno & at Wakefield
Mafs waz not my strong subgeckt at skkol

1275 A+ primary gear is same teeth (29T) as the 998 you have, but has a stepped bore.
they are probably a bit rare here, try Brickworx.

<edit> p/no is DAM8890,
$243.10 at Karcraft for a new one if they have any.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Damn !!! Stuffed the 1st motion roller bearing trying to get the housing on !!!!

How the hell do you get one of these off the 1st motion shaft without a puller??

Anyone know the part number for A+ 1st motion roller bearing?

Is there some useful trick for getting the bearing back into the housing without stuffing it???

AAAARRRR!!!!

TT

If it's the newer plastic caged one you will stuff the cage getting it off.
I use a 2 leg puller then to pull the rest off, with the legs ground a bit.

BEWARE- current outrigger bearings `1LRJ15.8' have a different bore diameter in the outer ring. If changing the bearing, fit the new ring too. Or, you will bugger the bearing when fitting flywheel housing.....

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Now I am completely depressed and feel like kicking something...

The carby I had reco'd and needled for a 1275 - as a starting point - is completely useless. Won't idle , float bowl just fills with fuel and leaks out the breather hole...

Ended up putting the ol' carby back on just to see if it would run and even needled to 998 we actually had the car on the road and running....

Fair enough....we had gear changes and all but reverse seemed to be clashing a bit so we bled the slave cylinder a bit more. Plenty of fluid coming through and no air bubbles.... AWWW

Now we can't get the damn thing into gear..

We've got clutch and you can see arm travel through the slave cylinder down to the clutch arm but with the engine going you can't get the damn thing into gear at all. Thought the clutch plate might have stuck to flywheel and kick started her and drove around the paddock thinking might free up but no luck few gear changes but then same thing ???

Any suggestions what might be the cause ??? Primary gear stuck??? It just seems as though there is not enough travel for the clutch plate to be engaging and then releasing it into selected gear??

Done things by the book but it doesn't tell you everything???

Frustrated TT

It not orthodox but it has worked for me .

Try bending the actuater rod towards the the clutch slave cylinder a couple of millimeters this will give you a bit more stroke to move the clutch off the flywheel and it dosnt hurt anything.