Hi all,

I'm just in the throws of putting my 1100 back together after having it re-bored, decked, new cam bearings, crank ground etc.
Crank went in sweetly, as did the new pistons but when I tighten the big ends I can barely turn the crank by hand, everything has been oiled. The shop machined the crank mains but said the others were good. The shells that came out of the big ends have been replaced by the the same size (010) that came out .

Should everthing be moving freely at this stage?

It should turn by hand.

I bet you have put the conrod caps on backwards.
Seen it happen, quickest way to trash cranks and bearings there is.

The notches that locate the 2 bearing shells are on the same parting line (side) of the rod & cap. (ie the same bolt hole).
This also applies to the centre main cap.

Also note the rods are numbered- make sure the caps match the rods... they are not interchangeable with each other.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

When my 1100 was being rebuilt, the crank was really hard to turn by hand until the thrust bearings (new ones) were all in place ,then it turned sweet as.

However, the good Docs advice is far superior to mine - he's done more engines than I've had hot dinners!!!

Cheers

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Rod
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v607/Rodney/

I have put all the parts back as they came out. I was extremely anal and marked everything and even took closeup pictures. All the shell notches are sitting opposite to how you describe they should be. If they are wrong then this was how the engine was built previously.

The shop kindly put the pistons on the rods but I think they have put two on the wrong way, the stamp on top of the pistons are facing in different directions I'm presuming they should all be the same. The rods are sitting off centre on the gudgeons which could be causing the problem.

The crank turns freely without the rods but there is no thrust washer clearance with the new washers, I think I need to put a standard set in one side. What is the ideal clearance?

Factory clearance is .003" end float on the crank. A thou or 2 more is a good idea if it's gonna get revved hard.
1100 pistons (unlike 1275s) have offset gudgeon pins, they must be fitted all pointing the same way- `front' marking to radiator end. Or it will run funny, and could make knocking noises.

re the rod caps...
I'd make sure of this before it gets damaged.... it's not fun pulling it down again after it's back in the car.
Take the crank out, take shells out of a rod and cap, try bolting it on both ways. Feel the edge with your fingernail. Unless somebody has shut and honed them all with the caps on backwards, I bet you will find both notches next to the same bolthole is correct.
TheMiniMan? U agree???

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

OK I'll take it all down and try it the other way round.
Pistions don't have front marked on them, only 060 which can only point to front or rear of the engine (ie. cam side or dizzy side).

Piston pin is offset to camshaft side of block, I think.... don't have one handy except assembled on boxes....
Make sure they all point the same way.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

OK, I've pulled everything apart and guess what, all the notches are as the good Doctor said they should be. I must have been taking crazy pills yesterday, sorry Kev.
I can't believe it, I must have dreamt I had checked them.

Anyway, I removed all the pistons and got them facing all the one way. The rods don't slide across the gudgeons very easily so the rods were at a slight angle which stopped the crank from moving. Now that I've centred them everything moves quite easily.

Should the rods move side to side more easily on the gudgeon pins?

No, not when they are new, pins are often a neat fit at room temp.
Just look in there and make sure you have daylight both side of the rod end, to the piston bosses.
Oh.. and IF you don't know the history of the rod bolts, I'd bin them, go buy some genuine 3/8" UNF Unbrako socket head cap screws the right length.
Assemble with Loctite 261, torque to 50 lb/ft, as Vizard says- and bin the lock tabs. They are soft crap these days. Most comp Mini engine builders don't use `em.
Same story with the main bearing cap lock tabs, (use 60 lb/ft on the bolts) but do check the bolts are not too long. Screw one in with your fingers, without the bearing cap, it should go a couple of mm below the cap's face.
Shorten the bolts if you have to.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks Kev,

New lock tabs just arrived today and I thought they looked a bit crappy, oh well at least the weren't expensive.

I'm going away for a few days work so I won't be touching the motor until the weekend.
At least I can rest easy knowing everthing's ok thus far, I was really starting to stress.

I'm sure I'll be posting again soon

Tim