I was putting dad's diff and new layshaft back in the other day, and gave the 1st motion shaft a wiggle, it's got a bit of movement in the bearing so I thought I'd have a go at replacing it.

First off I wrecked the support bearing getting it off, so I need one of them and now I can't get the nut off the 1st motion shaft - I put the gearbox on the floor, and sat on the casing and put all my strength into undoing the nut, and I can't budge the bastard - there must be at least 250psi on that sucker

I've selected 2 gears so it's not moving, and of course I've unsquashed the lock washer... but

any tricks/clues/sympathy??

also,

I think the bearings I need to get are

1/LRJ15.8 - support bearing (the one on the end of the 1st motion shaft that goes into the casing)
2MJ28.5 - 1st motion shaft bearing
13H7848 - idler gear bearing (the inner one is very grumbly)

are they the right ones?

also,

I got new diff bits, and the new washers to go behind the new spider gears have tabs on them, but my diff housing doesn't have recesses for the tabs - do I have the wrong washers, or is cutting the tabs the approved practise?

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

right after I posted the question, I went and had another go - I considered putting the commodore on top of the box, but I decided against that, I put the base of an old seat on top of it and sat on that, and the handle off my trolley jack on the breaker bar - that cracked it.... way more than 150lb/ft (not psi, idiot... )

mainshaft spigot bearing 'eh... I'll look into that one

grinding down the diff housing will scare the crap out of me, but I can see that the old thrusts have been spinning and made some nice patterns

that big circlip is a bastard, I finally have a reason to get some real circlip pliers instead of dicking around with a ground down set of needle nose pliers

how about tricks for getting the bearing out of the casing after the circlip is out?

can what I'm trying to do be done without taking the whole gearset out?

thanks

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Once the circlip is out you could put a slide hammer onto the 1st motion shaft somehow (maybe clamp something behind the bottom drop gear). and pull it out.
I usually do it as part of a full stripdown, I drift it out with the mainshaft (after undoing the two detent plunger caps at bottom rear of box (if remote type). If you don't take these out, you will ping the synchro hub balls into orbit as you drift the mainshaft....

If that 1st motion bearing is worn, I bet the big one on mainshaft is no better. Ditto the layshaft, needle bearings, etc.
Why not save a $ by getting a bearing kit from Karcraft or whoever.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

sigh..... I know, I know.... it hurts when people use logic against me, I just didn't want to learn how to rebuild a gearbox just yet, and the $$ are adding up for dad - but they'll add up more when the gearbox turns itself inside out

once the mainshaft is out, it's just another small job to pull it apart and replace the synchros, right?

is the mainshaft the same thing as the 3rd motion shaft

the layshaft was cactus, already replaced that one...

what does a detent plunger cap look like? SP #64 and the big red book are a little scant on details (it's a remote 4 synchro box)

I really need a nice exploded picture of a gearbox with everything labelled - I reckon the names of things change over the years - the first motion shaft support bearing is now known as an outrigger - que ?

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Did you also replace the needle bearings that sit on the layshaft? if the layshaft is worn then so will they.

Simon, I feel for ya buddy, nothing worste than putting it all together and needing to pull it all apart again later when the needle bearings finally give way. Esp when the rebuild kit is almost $400 I got mine when i was in UK last and it was about $220? with a new layshaft...

I think you should replace all the needle bearings as a minimum as they are piss weak when you think about the work that they actually do?

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Lillee - 1969 Morris Mini K

Simon wrote: "what does a detent plunger cap look like? SP #64 and the big red book are a little scant on details (it's a remote 4 synchro box)"
Just behind the drop gear housing , on bottom corner of box there are 2 little hex plugs, 9/16" A/F spanner size. Undo both with a socket, the 2 springs will come out.
Then (provided you have taken out the selector interlock plate in radiator end of box) the synchro hubs can move with the mainshaft as you drift it to remove 1st motion shaft.
Yes once the mainshaft is out, changing the synchros is easy.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

ah..... that makes a bit of sense - I found the plungers after a bit of head scratching, and I got one of the selectors undone and out, and thought "how the bloody hell do you get the other one when it's all the way down there!" - it would make a lot of sense that you can drift if back and forth

the needle nose pliers I've always made do with as circlip pliers just aren't cutting the mustard with that big bastard on the 1st motion shaft - gotta do some shopping tomorrow

I also tried to get the 1 1/2" nut on the end of the mainshaft off, I did resort to sitting the commodore on top of the gearbox, and used a 2m piece of 1" RHS on the end of my breaker bar - and it didn't come undone - I'm taking it to the doctors tomorrow to get a stern talking to

thanks for your help to date as always...

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?