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 Post subject: sway bar
PostPosted: Sun Mar 05, 2006 6:31 am 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Mon Apr 05, 2004 11:23 am
Posts: 581
Location: Eastern Melbourne
Interesting the thought a sway bar isnt needed with comp bump stops...

Sway bar transfers load to opposite wheels and this includes unsprung weight. Considering a cornering move under brakes, you can bet a swaybar will be keeping the inside rear lower and placing more load on the outer rear, just where you want grip.

With hydro you get the added advantage (minimal) this also helps keep the front inside down.

my2c

Simon, you put that supercharger on the van yet?


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 05, 2006 7:27 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Besser, effects of progressive rear bump stops and an anti-roll bar during road driving are similar, in that they both increase the spring rate of the outer rear wheel when cornering.
This gives less understeer on turn-in.
An anti-roll bar will make it more prone to lift the inside rear wheel off deck (which Minis do under hard cornering anyhow) but as there's no weight on it it doesn't matter, IMO.
And I agree that will help hold the front inner wheel on the deck with a hydro, maybe... :wink:

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 05, 2006 11:06 am 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Wed Sep 22, 2004 5:46 pm
Posts: 728
Location: Melbourne
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Kevin,
Rear antiroll bars on Minis have always been a bit of a puzzle for me. By using a rear antiroll bar you effectively reduce the rear wheel grip which makes for less understeer.
To me it makes more sense to increase the front grip to reduce understeer and have more TOTAL grip than reducing rear grip and ending up with less TOTAL grip.
Using progressive rear bump stops increases rear roll stiffness on the outside wheel but doesn't reduce the grip on the inside wheel like a rear antiroll bar. This seems to be a better way to go for improved rear wheel grip. It will also reduce the tendancy for the inside front wheel to lift because of less rear body roll. How effectively, as you say, is another question.
It seems to me that by fitting a front antiroll bar you increase the front roll stiffness but I guess it has the downside of tending to lift the inside front wheel. Maybe that's why it isn't a good idea.
I've been told that if you run an LSD then a front antiroll bar is the way to go.
You can also reduce understeer by reducing the amount of rear toe in but I think that makes for a very twitchy rear end and thats not a good idea for the road.
As Pauline would say - anybody please explain.

Regards
RonR


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 05, 2006 2:40 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 6:19 pm
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Location: near Baulkham Hills, NSW
Ron, when I got my car it had rear wheel toe-OUT as a result of a shunt in its past life.
This effectively gives rear wheel steer once the inner rear has nearly lost contact on a corner.
As you suggest it was `a bit twitchy'- might be OK on the track but it's not what you want when on the road, going for full anchors in an emergency. :shock:

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R. :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 06, 2006 4:20 am 
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998cc
998cc

Joined: Wed Sep 22, 2004 5:46 pm
Posts: 728
Location: Melbourne
:shock:

Hi Kevin,
I drove a Moke once that had a rear antiroll bar and I think it also had the rear toe in reduced. It was a bit of a handful even at slow speed. I nearly lost it on a gentle sweeper on a suburban street at about 50 - 60 Kmh. It required fast reflexes, especially when you weren't expecting it. Compared to my S it was a real handful.
Any thoughts about roll centres etc?

Regards
RonR


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