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inazuma_x
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2005 12:40 pm 
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NAV wrote:
I have a DVD burner and can make as many copies as ppls need.
I actually have to go and see danidad and was just thinking then about shooting down on thursday.

What you up to on thursday Geoff?


PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE!

oh...and PLEASE!

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awdmoke
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2005 12:43 pm 
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inazuma_x wrote:
i've heard that if you are removing the subframes you should depressurize the hydro before you even jack the mini up...but...how to actually go about this...i havent the foggiest :D


The two Shraeder valves (look like car tyre valves) will be found if you look under the rear bumper. You can let these down by pressing on the valve with a tyre inflation tool.

Safety First: get one of your mates to do it :lol:
seriously, wear safety glasses & old clothes. This stuff will really stink!

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inazuma_x
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2005 12:45 pm 
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awdmoke wrote:
inazuma_x wrote:
i've heard that if you are removing the subframes you should depressurize the hydro before you even jack the mini up...but...how to actually go about this...i havent the foggiest :D


The two Shraeder valves (look like car tyre valves) will be found if you look under the rear bumper. You can let these down by pressing on the valve with a tyre inflation tool.

Safety First: get one of your mates to do it :lol:
seriously, wear safety glasses & old clothes. This stuff will really stink!


hmmm...so this crap will go everywhere yeah? is it going to come spurting out? or in a nice controlled flow like brake fluid?

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awdmoke
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2005 12:56 pm 
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It will :lol: It's not huge pressure - about 3x household tap pressure.

It's only water based, but it has glycol (and other stuff) in it, so you dont really want it in your eyes.

Hold a rag over the fitting when you do it. That will minimise any mess.
Anyway, if stop pressing on the valve, it stops coming out. Same as a car tyre.

DO NOT UNSCREW THE VALVE INSERT WHILE UNDER PRESSURE
it would pop out, make a huge mess, and maybe strip the last thread inside the valve.
No need to take it out at all unless it has been leaking.

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inazuma_x
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2005 1:00 pm 
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awdmoke wrote:
It will :lol: It's not huge pressure - about 3x household tap pressure.

It's only water based, but it has glycol (and other stuff) in it, so you dont really want it in your eyes.

Hold a rag over the fitting when you do it. That will minimise any mess.
Anyway, if stop pressing on the valve, it stops coming out. Same as a car tyre.

DO NOT UNSCREW THE VALVE INSERT WHILE UNDER PRESSURE
it would pop out, make a huge mess, and maybe strip the last thread inside the valve.
No need to take it out at all unless it has been leaking.


yeah removing the valve totally wouldnt have been my first choice when thinking how to get the fluid out :P

on another note...whats the best way to jack the car up? i was going to go and buy 4 trolley/stand jacks and put 2 under each subframe and lift it up that way...and then once i've got everything unbolted...get a bunch of mates to come round and help me lift the shell off...is this a bad idea? someone suggested i put wooden blocks under the subframes which seems good...but i dont have any wooden blocks :P

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awdmoke
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2005 1:24 pm 
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Wood is better - the tolley jacks move around & make it less stable.
you can use bricks in place of wood as there is not much weight,
but it would be my last choice. Concrete blocks or pavers are better.

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inazuma_x
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2005 1:33 pm 
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awdmoke wrote:
Wood is better - the tolley jacks move around & make it less stable.
you can use bricks in place of wood as there is not much weight,
but it would be my last choice. Concrete blocks or pavers are better.


i was thinking this sort of thing for the lift:

http://www.allproducts.com/manufacture9 ... -c1300.jpg

and then something else (wood/bricks/pavers) for when i finally get to lifting the shell off...

these tripod jacks should keep it fairly stable yeah? while i am unbolting bits and pieces...i am gonna do as much as i can with the car down on its own wheels...remove glass/doors/interior/stuff from the engine bay...then jack it up with 4 of these...and remove bolts underneath...then attempt to lift the body off...hopefully i'll have all the bolts off before i try this :P

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awdmoke
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2005 1:44 pm 
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they look good.
Dont forget to undo the little things before too:

remove clutch slave cyl
remove top engine steady
undo brake lines at subframe
wiring/earth strap/battery lead
disconnect accelerator and choke cables

hmmm, I think that's it...

<edit> remove gearchange mounts :oops:

<edit#2> of course you've already removed the speedo cable...

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Last edited by awdmoke on Tue Oct 18, 2005 2:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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inazuma_x
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2005 2:12 pm 
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awdmoke wrote:
they look good.
Dont forget to undo the little things before too:

remove clutch slave cyl
remove top engine steady
undo brake lines at subframe
wiring/earth strap/battery lead
disconnect accelerator and choke cables

hmmm, I think that's it...

<edit> remove gearchange mounts :oops:


hehehe...by gearchange mounts you mean the bit that attaches the gear lever to the remote changer underneath the passenger cabin? i was going to remove that when i remove the stearing...then when i have it all cranked up on the tripod jacks i'll remove the exhaust and then the rear subframe...then the front one...all the pipes and stuff should be visible from underneath yeah? i've never actually been under a mini before :P

interestingly enough i just last year built one of those tamiya models of an austin cooper s...it seemed...that order-wise it is pretty much the same as the real thing...in terms of assembly/disassembly...although this opinion may change when i actually get to doing this for real :P

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sociallydisabled
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 18, 2005 10:35 pm 
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when i removed my subframes i jacked the car up, undid the bottom bolts, lowered it down then undid all the others...i dont know if this will work for you, but it did for me, and it seems safter, then you and a mate can lift the body off the subby while a couple of other mates roll the subframe out of the way......

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inazuma_x
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2005 7:33 am 
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sociallydisabled wrote:
when i removed my subframes i jacked the car up, undid the bottom bolts, lowered it down then undid all the others...i dont know if this will work for you, but it did for me, and it seems safter, then you and a mate can lift the body off the subby while a couple of other mates roll the subframe out of the way......


yeah that sounds good...less stress and fuss...plus it means we dont need to lift the WHOLE body off in 1 go...can just do the front...then the back...

i am sure i'll have more questions as i get further into the disassembly...along with photos :P will keep ya'll posted! thanks for the help thus far!

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sociallydisabled
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2005 3:12 pm 
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you have the first person i have been able to help, thank you for the oppurtunity lol :D :oops:

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inazuma_x
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2005 5:10 pm 
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sociallydisabled wrote:
you have the first person i have been able to help, thank you for the oppurtunity lol :D :oops:


no worries ;) although i havent done it yet...i may find myself cursing your name sometime on sunday this week :P

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