I've just made some changes to my car that have really helped.

I've added an aluminium shock tower at the front. It's the 3racing version so has one less hole. I've also changed the shock oil from 500cst to 300cst. The car is so much more stable, but now I don't have as much steering. What should I be trying to increase the steering?

Ryan

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Ryan Filippi
Minis In The Gong
[email protected]
www.minisinthegong.com.au

Toe out if you can. Very small amounts I'd imagine. Maybe softer springs?

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Why Drink And Drive When You Can Smoke Dope And Fly!?

Softer front springs might help.
Harder rear springs is another option to help lose some grip from the rear end.

Softer front tires (more grip=more wear) will give more turn in
Harder rear tires lose rear grip to help turn in.

It's a big balancing game between the springs and tires essentially!

What NT said.

What tyres are you running Ryan?

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Softer front springs did the trick it seems.

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Ryan Filippi
Minis In The Gong
[email protected]
www.minisinthegong.com.au

had a race yesterday with the M01 - top suspension arm mount broke on the first heat

it wasn't handling at all well anyway, they were running the track clockwise which meant a sharp right hand at the end of the straight. Every time I slowed down for the corner it'd spin. The guys marshalling said it was picking up the inside back wheel too. I could see the body roll, and it also axle tramps from the start line with the amount of suspension slop.

After it broke a guy loaned me his fully hopped up m05 which was MUCH more stable, still crashed a fair bit, but a lot easier to keep in a straight line as long as the curbs stayed out of the way.

I'm shopping for an m05 now, and it's still confusing as hell. Can't decide whether the m05 V2 Pro is better value than a normal m05 mini kit with hop ups. Pricing the individual bits that come with the V2 Pro add up to about $60, but they aren't necessarily bits you'd buy instead of other, cheaper (like Yeah racing) bits

thoughts??

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

If you can stretch to the v2, definitely do so.

I built mine out of the box (and a ball diff) and have run 3rd at the RAB Hobbies Classic here in Bendigo 2 weeks ago, and polished off 1st today at the Vic Driver's Series.

Easy to build and a well sorted car. The V2 allows you to use square touring car style packs which are a LOT easier to acquire and take another hassle out of running a mini.

Just my 2 cents though!

That is true. Decent batteries are essential for constant power flow. The V2 is still unproven and I believe a couple of faults have been discovered despite being quite petty faults so It shouldn't be a problem. The advantages definitely outweigh the disadvantages. As far as I can tell, there isn't much difference in feel but that's just me. Like I've said, I don't race them.

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Why Drink And Drive When You Can Smoke Dope And Fly!?

I'm sure the driver had a lot to do with those results, well done

there's about $50 difference, which I can stretch to, but are those bits worth it or is my $50 better spent elsewhere, and if it's the only car I'm going to use, does the square battery matter?

And it doesn't come with another mini bodyshell!

http://banzaihobby.com/tamiya-58593 - $125.87
http://banzaihobby.com/tamiya-58483 - $77.58

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

I'll let a racer answer that.

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Why Drink And Drive When You Can Smoke Dope And Fly!?

Driver has a 'little' to do with it - but it's car and set up more than anything else.

The price difference is worth it if you are looking to race the car for sure. The second link you sent is the basic kit (which is ok-ish) but with the bodyshell that comes with it, you wouldn't want to race that shell anyhow (all the bling will fly off everywhere! Buy it for the shelf if you want it though!)

The bits that I upgrade on EVERY race kit I build with any Mini is:
-Rear alloy uprights
-Alloy steering (on the M05 it comes as 3 separate parts I think)
-Ball diff (doesn't come with either kit - but is a MUST)
-Alloy TRF shocks (but the Plastic CVA ones are fine)
-Alloy front steering knuckles. You'll bend plastic ones in every race

Personally for me, as a race car (not a car park hacker) I wouldn't deviate from the ProV2.

Mr Poeeeeeeee might drop in and throw his opinion around too though

shopping list! I like shopping lists

neither kit comes with those parts (except the shocks), so they're add-ons for both. I see what you're saying about the Pro V2

I'll price those bits up, the Yeah Racing stuff is all cheaper than the Tamiya stuff, is it any good?

I wouldn't race the shell that comes with the kit, but I can't resist another thing to gather dust...

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Some of them definitely come with the V2......just aren't listed. It's weird - they give you all the plastic parts, and then others in another bag that you then bolt on!

I might still have a list - so later in the day I'll see what I can find for you

Yeah racing options are ok. I guess you get what you pay for. But you could use them, and then if they break, replace them with tamiya stuff. You might get out of it ok though!

Shoot me an email and when I find the details (they are in another email) I will pass them along

I would buy the pro and upgrade as needed. You could run the pro out of the box and slowly upgrade.

The parts I would buy:
- Alloy front and rear uprights.
- gear oil diff
- alloy shocks (the plastic cya ones that come with the pro will be fine, the 3racing are a good cheap option, trf is even better)
- front shock tower mount
- alloy steering

I have used the three racing and year racing parts with great success.

Ryan

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Ryan Filippi
Minis In The Gong
[email protected]
www.minisinthegong.com.au

i might have accidentally bought a v2 pro today... my finger slipped on the keyboard, not much i can do about it now. local club has a swap meet coming up and i'll see about what snazzy bits people have spare before i go buying them

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?