Hi all

Spoke to Tricky quite a while ago about his GAZ coilover shock absorber,
appreciated Tricky being so kindly and friendly replied all my PM in the past.

Finally bought the suspension, should be arriving tomorrow.
Previously purchased heaps of upgrade replacement parts to go for my 4efte project,
I need to change them all before can send it to a mate's workshop attempt the conversion.

I tried to replace the rear radius arm last night and also want to fit the camber kit as well.
To prepare the new radius arm fitted ready for coiloer shock but I realise my hydro suspension rod is pushing to radius arm.

1. So is it must release the hyro fluid in order to have the radius arm off?

2. The new radius arm have the mount for brake fluid pipe ontop instead of mount at the
bottom compare to my Morris Deluxe, does it mean I need to remake new pipe long enough to goes on top?

3. I'm not sure whether the suspension kit come with the bolt for the front suspension
mounting bracket, due to lack of communication from seller (Kate) Huddersfield Spares.
Can you guys tell me what type of strong bolt and size?

4. Would like to confirm the mod of front top arm, is it drill it by 3/8 size?

5. Rear wheel baring are new fitted before the car set in garage for 4yrs already,
when I pulling it out can I re-use the same baring to the new radius arm?

BTW are there anyone from Melbourne got 4efte conversion run on the road yet?

thank you so much.


Cheers,
Benny

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SooperDooperMiniCooperExpertEngineering

All garage work involves equal measures of enthusiasm, ingenuity and a fair degree of irresponsibility.

2. The new radius arm have the mount for brake fluid pipe ontop instead of mount at the
bottom compare to my Morris Deluxe, does it mean I need to remake new pipe long enough to goes on top?

[b]?? Not sure...anyone??

- Hydro trailing arms have the bracket for the brake pipe on the bottom to make way for the rubber bump stop mounted on the top of the arm. Dry cars had the bracket for the brake hose on the top. They have sent you dry suspension rear arms, you will have to modify them to suit your hydro car.[/b]

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Have a Nice Day.
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thanks for the quick responsed.

I also bought the front top arm recondition kit, is it easily done by the press?

Regards of the adjustable tie-rod and lower arm.
Does anyone able to tell me what is the defualt setting?
Just adjust it base on the old one fitted originally?

But the purposed to changing this radius arm, it would allow me to mount a set of shock absorber. So the hyro system will be off completely. The point is current drum fluid nipple at the bottom and the mount is on top. Do I just simply make a bracket at the bottom?

Yeah receive the GAZ coilover today already.

can anyone here please tell me what size of the nut to use for bolting the suspension onto the radius arm suspesion stud and does it require washer?

Thanks

3/8ths UNF & yes needs a washer

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

That's what I did when I fitted mine. If your geometry with the original parts is pretty good this will work well, however if yours is anything like mine was it will take a fair bit of adjustment to get set up well.

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Simon

The adventures of an owner builder in the Tallarook Ranges

I was no idea why the tie-rod has bend since the previous owner.
probably need to hammer it before I can get it near to right adjustment.

Hi MiniMan
is it better to have spring washer or just a flat washer?

BTW on the front mounting bracket of GAZ coilover shocker it has 6 mounting point.
4 points ontop to line up with chasis but there are another 2 points at the bottom.
It's better drill another 2 holes to bolt on as well right?

I forgot to order a set of new bump stopper. Should I need one since I'm running on coilover suspension?

Hi OJ,

Yes, mount the upper bracket with all six bolts, and if you can with a reinforcing plate behind the bracket and welded to the body if you can - just for extra strength.

And also yes, use the subframe mounted bumpstop and never rely on the shock bumpstop.

If your subframe mounted ones (both upper and lower) are in any way knackered, replace both with new items.

Cheers,
Tricky

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"Not Speeding Officer..........Qualifying"

Nylock nut & flat washer

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No offence intended here but--> anyone writing a book about minis 30 years ago may not have experienced such worn or stuffed-with components as we are finding these days.

You should put your heart & soul into everything you do.

You mean behind the bracket, which is the reinfoement plate weld from the engine bay so chasis are between Bracket and Plate right?

3-5mm thinckness steal plate will be strong enough?

Appreciate to all of you being so helpful.

Cheers,
OJ

3mm will be more than enough.

Make it larger than the bracket. Weld it to the inside of the inner guard (engine bay side) to spread the load of the six bolts to a larger surface area.

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"Not Speeding Officer..........Qualifying"

How would you support the rear coilovers? Just bolt it through to standard mounting?

I would leave this for Tricky to answer your question or he will elaborate more.

He suggest me to build a strut bar inside the boot as a cross member to support both guard. It should need to reinforcing the rear guard as well.
Tricky definitely have the solution, he already fitted to his El Gato
Please correct me.