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Turbo 4EFTE or N/A 4EFTE
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Author:  The Ranger 89 [ Tue Feb 03, 2009 2:37 pm ]
Post subject:  Turbo 4EFTE or N/A 4EFTE
I'm looking at buying a starlet gt halfcut but before jumping in thought it better to ask a few questions first,

I am planning on buying a complete aftermarket EMS (wolfems), a KKR turbo, custom manifold, race spec: pistons, conrods, flywheel, valve springs, cam etc.

Would it be cheaper for me to get a Naturally Aspirated 4EFTE halfcut
or are they in too little demand there for harder to get?

Is there anything i would have to change to get a NA to accept the turbo?

or is it better to get a gt halfcut for rego reasons eg alteady turbo so not going to think of inspecting the litre-age

does anyone here know much on this situation
any help much appreciated
Author:  toymini76 [ Tue Feb 03, 2009 4:09 pm ]
Post subject: 
Hi. For a start the 4efte is turbo and the 4efe is non turbo. I haven't seen any non turbo front cuts for sale but I'm sure you could track one down. I'm not 100% sure but I think the block may not be as stong though and I'd definatley go the 4efte turbo.
Goodluck.
Author:  madmorrie [ Tue Feb 03, 2009 6:07 pm ]
Post subject: 
I would have thought it would be easier to get a 4EFTE turbo front-cut than an non-turbo one. I don't think many people would bother to import a non-turbo one. You may be able to pick up a whole locally delivered n/a Starlet for cheaper at the auctions, but I still recommend getting a front-cut. I have seen them (GT turbos front-cuts) for around $1650 lately which is cheaper than I got mine for.

Madmorrie
Author:  slinkey inc [ Tue Feb 03, 2009 7:00 pm ]
Post subject: 
You could get a naturally aspirated engine and stuff from a local car. If you do that you'd be best off with a 5E-FE which looks the same as a 4E-FE but is a 1.5 litre. That motor is found locally in a Paseo, and probably more models. Also found in that JDM gullwing Toyota called the Sera. :shock: (I think).

Just get a 4E-FTE front cut from a Starlet GT. It's just simply the best package. It'll probably be easier with rego since it's a stock turbo rather than aftermarket. Or you could rego it as N/A then turbo it but that may not be legal. And also I'm not sure how you go with aftermarket ECU because the N/A ECU probably won't be suitable. I know you are planning on buying an aftermarket ECU but the stock GT one would do the job and is much cheaper. All depends on what you wnat to do etc etc...

You could rego with a 5E-FE then later make it into a 5E-FTE (the T stands for turbo 8) ) but why bother when 4E-FTE front cuts are relatively cheap and pretty powerful for a 1.3L in stock form. You can get them for under 2 grand. I bought my front cut with 92,000 kms for $1500 +$450 shipping to Adelaide from Sydney, and then bought a complete motor and gearbox + ECU for $750. Cheap compared to A-series.
Author:  92 [ Tue Feb 03, 2009 8:05 pm ]
Post subject: 
I would go the 4EFTE route
How much power are you after?
A standard 4EFTE will make 200HP at the wheels with a better turbo such as a KKR280 don't need cams pistons and rods. More power just makes them undrivable unless your on a track.
Author:  Mini Mad [ Tue Feb 03, 2009 9:08 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Turbo 4EFTE or N/A 4EFTE
The Ranger 89 wrote:
I am planning on buying a complete aftermarket EMS (wolfems), a KKR turbo, custom manifold, race spec: pistons, conrods, flywheel, valve springs, cam etc.


As Ben said how much power do you want?

How much money do you have? Seriously? Are you going to do the work yourself? Who is going to put the motor in?

What do you want to do with the car?

You're best to tell us what you want and those of use that have done it will tell you what you need and how much it's going to cost and if you're dreaming or setting a realistic goal.

150-160HP ATW is about the maximum usable on the road, if you going to do some track work the skies the limit but with a 1.3L motor you're going to sacrifice the low down available power to gain up high, which is not a good idea in a lightweight FWD car.

What scares me is you have only mentioned motor modifications? What about brakes and suspension?
Author:  The Ranger 89 [ Wed Feb 04, 2009 5:18 pm ]
Post subject: 
for my round nose im planning on having:
front & rear KAD sway bars,
13x7 mags,
4pot turbo metro brakes with slotted discs,
dual brake master cylinders suited to a BA ford (In Latest Street machine) with a remote filler
& a good brake booster

all this before a motor conversion
i only realy want the light flywheel.

im hoping on getting it done by the time im 30 and im 19 now.
ive spend the last 6 months reshearching as much as i can about the 4efte conversion Particularly for a roundnose

i would love to hear your thoughts be it critisim or not
The more im aware of the better! i can only learn more!

i used to be a panel beater and im best mates with 2 mechanics and my grandpa is a genius toolmaker by trade
but im goint to get it all cheacked over by pros brakes are to important to play with myself

i just realy want a reliable daily drive with a bit of a kick to keep up with the local "Falcodores"
Author:  Mini Mad [ Wed Feb 04, 2009 8:16 pm ]
Post subject: 
First point i'll make is that if you only want to keep up with Falcadores then a mildly warm to hot 1275 or super hot 1100 could do that and save you a LOT of money.

11 years is a long time, and are you sure these guys are going to be willing to do work over such a long period?

How much are you expecting to spend over this 11 year period?
Author:  92 [ Wed Feb 04, 2009 8:19 pm ]
Post subject: 
If you just want a roady
Don't worry about the sway bars inparticularly the front one will just create way to much loss of traction.
Standard engine
Keep the standard turbo just make a new exhaust manifold original CT9b turbo is good for around 140-150 HPatw
Standard ECU will work fine with this may just need a fuel cut defender
Uprated clutch pressure plate
Watch out with wheels don't want ones which have a large scub radius car will "torque steer" badly. Most 13x7 are no good for this
Metro Brakes will be fine probably don't need to go the dual master route just dual circuit
Author:  slinkey inc [ Thu Feb 05, 2009 12:35 am ]
Post subject: 
I've got 12x5 superlights for my project. With crappy Falken tyres. There is an advantage to this. Wide sticky tyres are great but excessive traction can lead to driveline and gearbox/dff failures. So I've got hard tyres which should spin easily if provoked, however they'll probably spin too much!...If you insist on 13 inch wheels I'd personally go for something like this... http://www.minisport.com.au/prod1074.htm or a 13x6 superlight.
Author:  The Ranger 89 [ Thu Feb 05, 2009 12:55 pm ]
Post subject: 
i want to make my car grip the road as much as possible fat tyres good brakes & good suspension, even ground effect!

i had a bad experiance with thin tyres body roll and 1.3 tone of weight and a dirt corner

i know heavier vehicles grip better than light ones
and trust me im not goin near dirt in this

first handeling then looks then the motor after im used to the car more

i have relatives in adelaide would it be better to get all my parts from there instead of paying huge freight costs or will i be be better freighting stuff from sydney etc. (im near Mildura)

as for what i want so deseamed deguttered body, 4efte, mods & gadjets like elgato but look like madmk1
plus my own secret mod no one else has
Author:  slinkey inc [ Thu Feb 05, 2009 3:19 pm ]
Post subject: 
165 Mini tyres are not what I'd call 'thin'. And you can get some grippy tyres in this size.

Mate, go for it, have some fun! Just don't be suprised if the car flys all over the place under acceleration with those wide and hugely offset wheels. If you intend to do hard take offs, also don't be suprised if the driveshafts break. But even with all that grip if you drive it smart and don't do hard take offs without any slip you'll be ok.
Author:  amos [ Wed Feb 11, 2009 5:26 pm ]
Post subject: 
92 wrote:
Watch out with wheels don't want ones which have a large scub radius car will "torque steer" badly. Most 13x7 are no good for this


All well and good if you don't have a diff that isn't doing its job. However if the diff is doing it's job then the size of scrub radius won't matter - i.e. you need 1 wheel to have a force not equal to the other and then the scrub radius multiplied by the force difference will contribute to torque steer.

So my thoughts are... get a diff that works and you can then use whatever width wheel you like.
Author:  92 [ Wed Feb 11, 2009 5:30 pm ]
Post subject: 
amos wrote:
92 wrote:
Watch out with wheels don't want ones which have a large scub radius car will "torque steer" badly. Most 13x7 are no good for this


All well and good if you don't have a diff that isn't doing its job. However if the diff is doing it's job then the size of scrub radius won't matter - i.e. you need 1 wheel to have a force not equal to the other and then the scrub radius multiplied by the force difference will contribute to torque steer.

So my thoughts are... get a diff that works and you can then use whatever width wheel you like.


Thats all very good in theory but doesn't quite work so well on the road not all raod surfaces are smoth and flat which is were more of the problems come into it.
Author:  Mini Mad [ Wed Feb 11, 2009 5:34 pm ]
Post subject: 
Ben is most certainly right, even with super tricky diff's it wont help you at all. The unsprung weight is what hurts and 13x7's are super heavy.
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