Hey thanks for all the lovely words people, I appreciated greatly.
& yeah well,,, i wish i could make a pile of money but all i`m getting is a few kits for myself & the satisfaction of seeing people with huge smiles enjoying their smooth, quiet, reliable new found horse power 
sorry to archangel007 & minstar,,, i didn`t mean to open a can of worms at all & certainly didn`t mean to offend the jap engine conversion fraternity, it was purely meant to show the differences in amount of work needed to convert to jap engine , """Compared""" with the relatively little amount needed for a Bimmer Twinky cyl head conversion... no subframe mods, no gearshift mods, no panels cut out, no axles to be made, no major wiring & dash/instrument cluster swaps & no speedo calibrations & no Dept of Transport hassles.
It was also aimed at showing how there is way more involved with returning a jap engine converted mini back to stock std,,, The Bimmer Twinky s just a cyl head swap really.
The suspension geometry "hassels" & the "crap" needed to go through to sort & the "plagued" with dramas was aimed at all the dodgey conversions i`ve seen over the years,,, (i`ve seen lots, what worries me is that there is obviously plenty more out there that i haven`t seen) &yours may well be all lovely, i certainly didn`t aim any bad words at yours in particular,,, please forgive my generalisation??? 
gear ratios & suspension mods issues are needed to be sorted with regards to the "average" jap engine conversion tho ,
Firstly--> gear ratios to address the 5th gear wonderfullness that i hear soooo many people dream on about... The fact is that most jap cars run very large diameter wheels/tyres (13" & 14") compared to our pissy little 10" things, that "supposed" 5th gear overdrive lovelyness just doesn`t quite become the highway low rev cruiser that they all rave on about hey? Most Jap diff pinion gears are actually part of the gearbox mainshaft & to address this issue correctly would necessitate the manufacture of a mainshaft/pinion & crown wheel assy to re-gain the same final drive ratio as the donor jap car with way taller 13" & 14" wheel/tyre packages
2ndly--> suspension geometry issues are needed to be sorted as the major subframe modifications entail the re-fabrication of the front Tie-bar/radius rod locating/mounting point (on the "Average" jap engine convertad subframe) & hence it`s location & also it`s rigidity to withstand the torsional & lateral forces applied to it while cornering really need to be sorted correctly & "Some" of the frames i`ve seen over the years tend to be just simply a few round pipes welded to the frame to hold the engine in place with very little regard to the front frame members actual job. Not to mention the larger & very much heavier 13" wheels/tyres combos i`ve seen jap engined minis run with...
I`m sorry if it seemed to you guys that i was having a dig at all Jap engine conversions, it certainly wasn`t meant that way,,, it was mainly to show the "Average" joe/Jane that there is way way way more involved with a jap engine conversion than just fabbing up a frame to hold the donk in place,,, as compared to a fairly simple cyl head swap
Again, please forgive me for sounding derogatory,,, i have made my own jap engine conversion subframe & also my turbo charged alloy V8 subframe & i`m definately not against them in any way, i`ve also helped many other people fab up their own frames for jap engine conversions over the years, so i`m not new at all this, i`ve done my homework,,, hence the Bimmer Twinky conversion,,, it`s what i call """The Best Of A Bad Bunch"""
My blatant generalising was only meant to show Average Joe/Jane, (those who have no distinct mechanical or fabrication experience) that this Bimmer Twinky conversion is simply far cheaper & easier to complete,,, with absolutley no hassles with Dpt of Transport,,,, no being "Plagued" with dodgey suspension subframes twisting & cracking,,, & next to no effort returning it back to a standard car--> as "Compared" to a jap engine conversion... by no means was it a dig at you or anyone else who owns a jap engine converted car, just a dig at the bodgey ones i`ve seen, so please excuse & forgive my lack of tact when typing that post
what diff ratios & what size wheels/tyres & Brakes are you guys running with your jap engine conversions by the way???
As for the mini gearbox being weak,,, well,,, when all the Jap gearboxes are 30+ years old & well worn out & you throw 180hp at them i bet you come to the same conclusion that the mini gearbox weakness "Mith" came from. they are well strong, just that some people have given them a bad name being lazy & not re-building them when they re-build their engines & just stuffing a new faster donk ontop of a 30+ year old 2nd hand worn out gearbox &/Or they have re-built them poorly---> simple as that,,, they take a hell of a lot of grunt & for a hell of a lot more time, (when built correctly) way way more than "some" people give them credit for... I pity those people because they have obviously either had bad experiences --> OR they have been misslead by in experienced people.
Suzi boxes were dieing very early in the piece, (& still are) which brand of jap box is next to get a bad name for "weakness" when they are 30+ years old & 180hp is thrown at them???
The fact is that a well prepared & well built mini box will easilly handle 160hp all day every day & for a very long time,,, However there is something called "fatigue" that will "Plague" nearly any 30+ year old gearboxes tho, no matter what the brand, & we can`t all have D9 bull dozer gearboxes fitted to out tiny little cars just for the sake of making them last 500 years, it would take 500hp to turn the dam things
ok, i`m done & again sorry for seeming anti jap engine, i`m certainly not. As mick (9YaTah) put it--- "Dam good value & bang for buck",,,, just need to add """smooth, quiet, reliable, efficient, refined & sofisticated"""
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It's good fun to spectate, just make sure you get somewhere where you think people will stack 
