ausmini :: View topic - MAFIA'S Mini Project

I’m just about to start getting the stone guard off from the floor etc.

Thinking of getting it blasted off, but im trying to keep the cost of this build down.

-=MiniMafia=- wrote:

I’m just about to start getting the stone guard off from the floor etc.

Thinking of getting it blasted off, but im trying to keep the cost of this build down.

use a little gas torch to heat it up and it'll scrape off really easily

never seen a subframe made out of alloy, I asked Tricky about it and he said alloy isn't good for that sort of thing because the stress points in the metal are localised, so prone to breaking, whereas with steel, the stress is spread out across the whole piece of metal - or something like that...

dunno about that dirty great spoiler thingy for the front... looks way better without it - the MRA guys that have them reckon they push an amazing amount of air - the bow wave makes the metal wall at Wakefield flex. Don't run it unless you really need it...

As per Simons comments, aluminium used as a structural member has some queer characteristics. Under stress, particularly compression, it 'channels' a lot of forces to one or two areas, which then fatigue quite quickly. Unlike steel which distributes all the forces over its entire length (that's why you dont see aluminium springs, even though it has high malleability, it has very poor elasticity).

Author:	-=MiniMafia=- [ Tue Dec 04, 2007 11:51 am ]
Post subject:	MAFIA'S Mini Project
edit - project on hold BUILD COST TO DATE 4/12/07 $2606.50 9% FINISHED

Author:	badassmini [ Tue Dec 04, 2007 5:56 pm ]
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wow mate lookn sweet. looks like you have you work cut out for you but when its finished i bet its gonna be a sweet ride and quick can't wait to see it finished. any hints what motor your putting in it. cheers dan

Author:	1018cc [ Tue Dec 04, 2007 7:09 pm ]
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Gee you have some projects on the go. Can't wait to see this one finished

Author:	-=MiniMafia=- [ Tue Dec 04, 2007 8:21 pm ]
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Thanks guys You can never have too many projects I’m just about to start getting the stone guard off from the floor etc. Thinking of getting it blasted off, but im trying to keep the cost of this build down. After that’s done, ill get the cage welded in to give the shell a little bracing, before mounting the rear sub frame assembly. Depending on what is available at the time, I want to use a motor cycle engine of some description. Now, what’s the best tool to cut fiber glass with? Everything needs trimming here and there, and I don’t want to stuff them. Also, has anyone ever made mini sub frames out of alloy?

Author:	simon k [ Tue Dec 04, 2007 10:10 pm ]
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-=MiniMafia=- wrote: I’m just about to start getting the stone guard off from the floor etc. Thinking of getting it blasted off, but im trying to keep the cost of this build down. use a little gas torch to heat it up and it'll scrape off really easily never seen a subframe made out of alloy, I asked Tricky about it and he said alloy isn't good for that sort of thing because the stress points in the metal are localised, so prone to breaking, whereas with steel, the stress is spread out across the whole piece of metal - or something like that... dunno about that dirty great spoiler thingy for the front... looks way better without it - the MRA guys that have them reckon they push an amazing amount of air - the bow wave makes the metal wall at Wakefield flex. Don't run it unless you really need it...

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Author:	booy_it [ Tue Dec 04, 2007 10:22 pm ]
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simon k wrote: -=MiniMafia=- wrote: I’m just about to start getting the stone guard off from the floor etc. Thinking of getting it blasted off, but im trying to keep the cost of this build down. use a little gas torch to heat it up and it'll scrape off really easily never seen a subframe made out of alloy, I asked Tricky about it and he said alloy isn't good for that sort of thing because the stress points in the metal are localised, so prone to breaking, whereas with steel, the stress is spread out across the whole piece of metal - or something like that... dunno about that dirty great spoiler thingy for the front... looks way better without it - the MRA guys that have them reckon they push an amazing amount of air - the bow wave makes the metal wall at Wakefield flex. Don't run it unless you really need it... ive got a old mini mag (or mini world) that has a full circuit mini with the boot floor cut out of it running a a space frame chassie with custom trailing arms made out of billet alloy using motorbike calipers and rotors ill see if i can scan the pics and post them up

Author:	mad-mk1 [ Tue Dec 04, 2007 10:37 pm ]
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use your friendly anglegrinder to cut fibreglass, with one of those extremely thin disks, great suuccess i approve of everything except the "thing" on the front might look ok once finished everything else looks wikid, where did you get the flares and fibreglass bits fromm, boot/ bonnet mainly. cheers jamie

Author:	-=MiniMafia=- [ Wed Dec 05, 2007 7:53 am ]
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Hey everyone! Thanks for the replys. Oh, dw, im probs not using the front wing, I thought I would just sit it on to see what it looked like. But I will hang onto it for now, i may need it.... Also, got the glass parts off ebay. for a good price. If anyone needs to make a copy, please let me know before I cut them up to suit my car. Oh and sorry, I got the front (the one on the car in the pic) off Gordie. its very well made, and very thick. this one has not bee cut to fit 13" wheels. the other one has. so I think ill be putting this one aside for the deluxe. hmm, scrap that idea about the subframe. just trying to save weight. I have a 5" grinder with a 1mm blade... will that do? if not, ill buy something thinner. anyway, here are some old pics of me hacking up the shell.

Author:	badassmini [ Wed Dec 05, 2007 12:11 pm ]
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hey mate use a normal or air grinder with a diamond cutting blade on it thats what we use at work for cutting threw fibre glass.

Author:	-=MiniMafia=- [ Wed Dec 05, 2007 1:19 pm ]
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Thanks badass, ill get one this arvo. Any tips on how I should attach the wheel arches? I dont want them permanently fixed. I’m thinking just hex head screws that hold on motor cycle fairings...

Author:	dbr11k [ Wed Dec 05, 2007 1:36 pm ]
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those wheel arches are phat..... literally

Author:	simon k [ Wed Dec 05, 2007 2:13 pm ]
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do you mind snapping me a close-up of the end of the crossmember, where it meets the inner guard. I see you've cut the triangular piece off, and I want to see what's under there... Have you seam welded around where those 3 panels joined? take a photo of the area where you're grinding in this pic

Author:	Archangel007 [ Wed Dec 05, 2007 2:29 pm ]
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hi Minimafia, Just some comments if I may....... As per Simons comments, aluminium used as a structural member has some queer characteristics. Under stress, particularly compression, it 'channels' a lot of forces to one or two areas, which then fatigue quite quickly. Unlike steel which distributes all the forces over its entire length (that's why you dont see aluminium springs, even though it has high malleability, it has very poor elasticity). Get yourself an air-hacksaw - the best thing seince penicillin in my book and just the tool to cut fibreglass. Personally, i would bond the flares onto the car with epoxy and micro-ballons. You are trying to fix thin fibreglass to thinner sheet metal, and you need as much surface area to affix to as possible, so epoxying would be the best solution here I think (by no means am I an expert on fibreglassing, just regurgitating what the experts have told me). Now that you've cut the back out of the floor pan, make sure you crossbrace with temporary members diagonally across the shell both ways (for an 'x'). This will ensure that the rear of the shell stays square and true. Just tack a couple of pieces of 25x25 RHS or something in there temporary. Now, about that one-piece front - can I get a copy (make a mould would be good) before you start modifying it? is Gordo making and selling these? Just my $0.02 Cheers, Tricky

Author:	-=MiniMafia=- [ Wed Dec 05, 2007 5:18 pm ]
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simon k, I had to cut the areas out cause they were rusty. I have made up another bit to replace it. (the coil overs are being mounted there, and i needed something solid) but sure, Ill take a pic for u and post it up. and Archangel007, thanks for the tips. I will brace the rear before moving the shell. i havnt finished cutting it out yet. and the cage should hold everything in place well. Nah, Gordie isnt making them, I just bought it off him. And dont worry, im not cutting the good one up. Im going to use the two peice front now. Are you sure its a good idea to bond the flairs to the car? wont it crack? Thanks!!!!

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Author:	amos [ Wed Dec 05, 2007 5:37 pm ]
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Quote: As per Simons comments, aluminium used as a structural member has some queer characteristics. Under stress, particularly compression, it 'channels' a lot of forces to one or two areas, which then fatigue quite quickly. Unlike steel which distributes all the forces over its entire length (that's why you dont see aluminium springs, even though it has high malleability, it has very poor elasticity). Ummm... any chance you could elaborate on this? It doesn't really make much sense to me.... if 2 structural members are identical in shape (1 made from ally, an alloy or whatever and the other made from steel) - they should have the same stress concentrations etc... Sure enough a low grade ally or for that matter a low carbon steel will fail earlier than a high carbon (not too high, it'll be too brittle) steel.... If we simplify it.... we have 2 bolts. 1 aluminium and one steel. The stress concentrations will be identical assuming a similar modulus, its just that the ally one will fail under less load than the steel one.