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| Approximate build up costs https://ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=36028 |
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| Author: | Harley [ Mon Sep 24, 2007 12:59 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Approximate build up costs |
Sorry to post this if it's a regular thread but I'm too lazy to search. I've found an engine I want to put in my car, aside from that, the car cost and the usual suspects of rego, blah blah blah, what other expensive factors should I need to be aware of? EG What would engineering cost roughly, and what else could I be up for? Thanks. 
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| Author: | Mini Mad [ Mon Sep 24, 2007 1:29 pm ] |
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If you are confident you can keep it stock.... Engineering ~$800up What Motor? Have you got the frame sorted out? Depending on the motor you chose a brake upgrade.. |
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| Author: | Harley [ Mon Sep 24, 2007 3:01 pm ] |
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Engine I'm looking at is a JB-DET from a Daihatsu Copen. I dont have it yet, so no subframe. As for brakes I have a few sets of 8.4 solids, some metros and if I get carried away I'll look at four wheel setups. I just figured I should look at the costs before I commit to an engine. |
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| Author: | Mini Mad [ Mon Sep 24, 2007 3:22 pm ] |
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it's quite a small motor, i would really look at weighing the benefits againsts the cost vs going something like a well built turbo a-series.. There was a Copen at our dyno day, owned by Justin and it made 56HP at the wheels with an upgrade kit. Look at where it sits below compared to all the A-Series.. 
My NA Small Block made more power...and that's reliable, driven it to Melbourne, Track Days, etc... IMO i wouldn't go near the hassle of a conversion for only that much gain when there is nothing wrong with a good A-Series. Conversions are only really practical when you want over 150HP |
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| Author: | Harley [ Mon Sep 24, 2007 3:32 pm ] |
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I'm looking at it based on a cost thing. I have 2 a series engines and each could do with a full rebuild. I don't want to spend that money on both, and for a similar cost to a rebuild I can have a near new jap engine in the car. I'm yet to make a final decision, just need to add up all my options. Thanks. |
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| Author: | Mini Mad [ Mon Sep 24, 2007 3:52 pm ] |
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You got the engine - a rebuild would cost what...$3-5k TOPS for something really good with decent power. With Conversion: - Subframe could cost anything really...$1000 for a rough guide - Engineering $800 - Insurance Increase. - Drive Shafts. ~$500+ - Fuel Tank + Lines for Fuel Injection - Fuel Pumps - Miscellaneous Custom Work for Gear Linkages, Cluch etc. - Plus Motor, Brakes etc that are common to both. Whatever you think it's going to cost. Double it. |
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| Author: | Gordo [ Mon Sep 24, 2007 4:23 pm ] |
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Mini Mad wrote: Whatever you think it's going to cost. Double it.
At a minimum double it.... |
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| Author: | Mini Mad [ Mon Sep 24, 2007 4:24 pm ] |
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Gordo wrote: Mini Mad wrote: Whatever you think it's going to cost. Double it. At a minimum double it....  Triple Double.
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| Author: | Mini Mad [ Mon Sep 24, 2007 4:25 pm ] |
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Harley wrote: I'm looking at it based on a cost thing.
I gurantee you an A-series with the same power output as that motor is a much more cost viable option. |
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| Author: | Kennomini [ Mon Sep 24, 2007 9:40 pm ] |
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Alright I heard somewhere that 1.6+forced induction or 1.8 N/A is the limits of what we can put in our minis, correct? Why arn't their many of these getting around? everyone seems to be doing 1.3 turbos  Shorley theirs more power in these bigger engines.
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| Author: | dove grey 64 [ Mon Sep 24, 2007 10:05 pm ] |
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bigger donks usually weigh more, and are a larger size eg. a 1.8 vtec is taller then a 1.6 vtec and requires it to sit lower in the subframe to clear the bonnet. besides its always fun to squeeze out power from the underdog smaller engines. if i was doing a conversion i'd be looking at a well balanced car, enough HP that you could use in conjunction with good cornering. i'd learn towards a 4efte, around the same weight as a A series, small capacity (fuel economy) my 2c |
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| Author: | slinkey inc [ Tue Sep 25, 2007 3:06 pm ] |
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4EFTE? For me, because ther is already one on the road here in SA, and I'm good friends with the very talented bloke who built it. I'd probably prefer a Honda 1.8, or even K20, but I think that's going too far. The stock 4EFTE makes good power, you'd have a 100kw Mini and reliability as the motors stock, that's what I'm going for. Band for buck it won't be worth it but, I'll have ~95 hp atws, great fuel economy (compared to a turbo A series of the same output) and great reliability. Although it won't have that tough A-series sound anymore. 
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| Author: | Gordo [ Tue Sep 25, 2007 7:24 pm ] |
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The regs are that... For turbo or super charged its 2.5 x the ORIGIONAL tare wieght. For naturally aspirated its 3 x the ORIGIONAL tare wieght and they'll give you an engine capacity in cc's. I dont know about you but the weight i found for my van was 597kg and that was the lightest wieght i could find even though the heaviest noted wieght was only like 20kg more (fuel??) 2.5 x 600 gives you 1500cc for turbos and 3 x 600 gives you 1800 for naturally aspirated thats my 2c worth |
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| Author: | slinkey inc [ Tue Sep 25, 2007 7:47 pm ] |
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As far as I'm aware, the cc's related to car mass is not a part of SA law, there is much info on engine changes but they come under different catagories. Has the law changed, or is SA just behind (  )?
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| Author: | Archangel007 [ Fri Sep 28, 2007 7:35 pm ] |
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Gordo wrote: The regs are that... For turbo or super charged its 2.5 x the ORIGIONAL tare wieght. For naturally aspirated its 3 x the ORIGIONAL tare wieght and they'll give you an engine capacity in cc's. I dont know about you but the weight i found for my van was 597kg and that was the lightest wieght i could find even though the heaviest noted wieght was only like 20kg more (fuel??) 2.5 x 600 gives you 1500cc for turbos and 3 x 600 gives you 1800 for naturally aspirated
thats my 2c worth Gordo, When I quizzed my engineer on this, he used kerb weight, not Tare! So, the figures I was told was 1600cc max for forced induction, and 1950cc for N/A. Cheers, Tricky |
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