well i actually had a bit of time in the week end and did a bit of work on the car ,i had to measure up some new tiebars as on the RH side the gearbox interfers with the tiebar.
I was planning on having new bars made in a thicker daiameter with a curve on it to go around the box but as it turns out its not going to work ...soooo
I have seen somewere on a conversion were the tiebars were mounted on the rear of the front arm onto the rear of the subframe , has anyone seen this as i need some help and info as i think its my only option.

Thanks

Hi Graig.
Don't for get to ask the same question on 16Vminiclub.com they may be hopefully too.

Yeah thanks Paul , just searching there now

how close is the tie bar to the gear box
did you have all the supspension in with a hub on the end
when you put all this in the tie bar does get pushed down buy the hub and may give you enough clearance going under the gearbox,

unless the gearbox is really far over and wide towards the front of the subframe,which is where im guess it hits

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with the fury of a Monkey Dishwasher aimed at your Purple

57 Morris minor
88 Rover Mini

I guess there is no going back as far as shifting the engine? The problem with running them from the back to the lower arm is that you might find it interferes with the steering rack tie rod ends. Also there is a fair amount of complexity in locating the mounting correctly so the thing steers properly. I know it may suck but this is such a major workaround that starting again may be a better option in the long term...

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225hp atw on 14psi. 1/4 Mile no idea. Take one 1971 Mini Clubman, one Starlet GT Halfcut, Simmer over a warm MIG Welder, and Voila Minstar! www.mpdesign.id.au

Umm im thinking im going to have to some how have these mounted on the front from the feedback im getting about steering setups etc , unfortunately i cant move the engine any direction so its there to stay.
i might have to drop the front mount points and also move them both out a inch or so, ill have another look over the weekend.
Thanks for your feed back guys

I don't think that is a good idea. it will change the entire suspension geometry and will probably affect the steering too. I'd say have a look at the gearbox again and make sure you can't move it even if it is a real pain. my 2 c

cheers
Pierre

it actually should work OK, but will almost certainly cut down your steering lock.... the tie bars only hold the suspension upright from moving backwards and forwards, so as long as the mounting point is the same on both sides and is rigid, it should be OK...

this is the city turbo, right? what's the length of the motor/gearbox from one side to the other - IE the end of the gearbox (in your pic) to the timing cover? I'm surprised that the gearbox has to stick out so far on that side

there does seem to be a bit of room in front of the timing cover... half an inch across would make a hell of a lot of difference to the gearbox clearance

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Moving the engine is truely a major major as i cant move it to the LH side much due to the crank pulley is close to the subframe and the centre lower crossmember would have to be moved over aswell , im not really prepared to start again.
I had a quick look at it tonite and im thinking i may get away with lowering the front mounts , if i lower these mounts and not move them out i cant see that it whould afect the handling much or at all ,if the caster is correct why do the mounting points matter?
And how would my steering be afected?
i can see a lengthy thread coming
sorry about all the questions

precisely... that's what I was trying to say...

the steering lock might need to be reduced if you move the bars out, just because the tyres would rub on them

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did I tell you that I won a trophy?

Simon,

Nothing wrong with having slightly bent tie-bars either, as long as the metal was thick enough to avoid further distortion under load.

Sounds like it just needs some time on the thinking stool. JC, wheres that stool......?

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"Not Speeding Officer..........Qualifying"

I thought the same thing. Would just need to make sure your tyre doesn't hit it on full lock. Of course it would be challenging to then maake it adjustable.....

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But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

Why not shorten the castor rod and move the subframe fixing point by welding another piece to the subframe (ie. to thejust under the box or even to the rear of the box).

This idea might not be right but may lead to some sort of solution.

Dan