Hi
I was just wondering what thickness steel tubing people were using on their frames.

Thanks

Steven

3mm on Mini Mad's.

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DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I would second the doc 3mm

+if you are going to modify the motor you might want to consider thicker

+if you are going to have high stress point's then I would consider thicker wall stuff, if only for the more structural stuff

when your ordering some steel get a little bit of angle and flat so you can web the bends etc.

the last thing you want is for it to bend after going to that much effort. I know you run into ADR issues but have you considered a pre made frame and fitting kit? I know they do them for the honda's.

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-doing a Degree in Mechanical Engineering,
and a few conversions:
13B Extend in a 1600
4EFTE in a mini ute (all slowly)

They make subframe kits for most engine conversions out there, althought not the 4efte yet I believe...

http://16vminishop.co.uk/ it seems to sell a few different ones, but it's definately expensive. Plus the freight costs would cost you 3 arms and a few legs.

Yeh ive considered it but but there all a bit pricey so i thought i'd have ago my self.

Thanks

Steve

good on ya theres the mini spirit (no money in the folding card holder in the back pocket)

Now I am a student Mini owner that's all mine does (hold my club membership's and ice scrapers for those really cold canberra morn's)

are you going to base it on a production one?

_________________
-doing a Degree in Mechanical Engineering,
and a few conversions:
13B Extend in a 1600
4EFTE in a mini ute (all slowly)

Yeh i got some pics of a guy on this site(vtecmini or somehting like that) from new zealand. Its made in the us not sure who though.I'd put a pic up but not sure how.

OK steel has a good tensile strength (strength when stretched)

it has a lower strength on compression, have a good look at the photo's and work out what's chunkier. put thicker metal in compressive loads as that's where it's more likley to fail. considering that it's something that wil move and have dynamic forces on it one day. If you want a second opinion when you get there I'm just down the road.

_________________
-doing a Degree in Mechanical Engineering,
and a few conversions:
13B Extend in a 1600
4EFTE in a mini ute (all slowly)

I don't know how some of these frames got engineered- some 4EFTE ones have absolutely NO bracing on RH side to take the thrust load from the lower tiebar. The RH guard (with no inner wing) is all there is to take fore/aft thrust. It's an open sided box...being flexed by 1/2 the wheel HP.

There's no room under there for a lower rail, the 4EFTE motor's in the way.
Mini Mad's frame has 2 RHS tube gussets in it now, so should be much stronger.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

I think iv'e figured out how to put pics up .

Here's a pic of the the frame that im going to base mine on

That is a very neat & strong design!

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Too many cars, and too little time.

Yeh it does'nt look to bad
but wondering would'nt it have to have support going from the front of the frame to the body work above the towers like you see on other flip fronts .

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Vtec Mini clubman. Commenced Jan 06.
Still Going June 07

http://s25.photobucket.com/albums/c71/sunburstvl/

That is the cradle I have in my clubman, I hope to get the mini back from the shop at the end of the month. Not painted but going.

hope you don't mind me using your pics.

What does your engineer think of the frame???

_________________
Vtec Mini clubman. Commenced Jan 06.
Still Going June 07

http://s25.photobucket.com/albums/c71/sunburstvl/

Hi, the pic look nice. The engineer has had a look and said that there should be no problems.
Cheers Paul.