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PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 9:35 pm 
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1098cc
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No idea about the manifold but there are plenty of cars getting around with custom exhausts and what not... That said, I'd be doing as your engineer tells you though otherwise he won't pass it

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http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=20746


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 9:49 pm 
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848cc
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The water pipe on the head next to the exhaust manifold is the outlet and the one on the end in the middle of the head is the inlet.
Yes top port of radiator is the inlet bottom outlet.
4PK belts come in many sizes so you can choose what size is needed depended on your setup. Mine uses one of the standard belts.
With the exhaust manifold depends what state you are in, SA needs to stay standard to avoid emission testing in NSW and other states it is possible to use modified stuff.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 10:25 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Adelaide... RADelaide!
Gordo - yeah i've just followed 92's advice as he's done it all before in SA.

92 - can you identify these three ports then as i'm a bit confused by your previous post:

Image

As for the 4PK belts any idea on where i can get more details on those belts? I specifically want the tooth profile and other relevant dims so i can spec an idler pulley for the water pump belt...

Appreciate everyones help as always!!

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 11:46 pm 
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998cc
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Location: NOR, Perth, W.A.
amos wrote:
...identify these three ports ...

The ports are as follows :
1 - Leads to top of radiator (inlet of rad)
2 - Leads to inlet of water pump (via rubber hose & then hard inlet pipe)
3 - Leads to bottom of radiator (outlet of rad)

Amongst other smaller pipes in the thermostat housing, there is a 15mm diameter pipe just above "2" that leads to the heater core in the car (and the outlet from the core joins just before the water pump inlet - into the hard pipe.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 24, 2010 7:43 pm 
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848cc
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amos wrote:

As for the 4PK belts any idea on where i can get more details on those belts? I specifically want the tooth profile and other relevant dims so i can spec an idler pulley for the water pump belt...

Appreciate everyones help as always!!


The 4PK is an automotive belt type 4 being number of ribs PK the rib profile the number after is the length of belt, so you should be able to go to say CBC bearings and get a pulley to suit a 4PK belt, they also stock a fair variety of belt sizes. They also have flat pulleys which can be used on the back of the belt to tension it.
There is a belt which will fit between the crank pulley and the water pump without a tensioner some of the guys are running but I can't rememeber the size.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 24, 2010 11:11 pm 
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998cc
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92 wrote:
There is a belt which will fit between the crank pulley and the water pump without a tensioner some of the guys are running but I can't rememeber the size.

The belt used is 4PK0715 - a 715mm belt.

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I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one :D
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.


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 Post subject: Wheels
PostPosted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 11:35 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Adelaide... RADelaide!
Just been living in dream world... These wheels are freakin sweet! And SSR are no longer around so they will be rare! Pity about the $2600 to get em here........ If I had the cash i'd seriously consider em...

Image

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and of course the ad.... (in case some cheeky bugger has the cash and wants them...)

http://www.importmonster.com.au/view.php?url=http://page4.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/d104976362

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 Post subject: Bog anyone?
PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 10:02 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Adelaide... RADelaide!
So I've been out doing some more work on the body this week... and other bits and piece in the engine bay. Here is what i've found after some serious wirewheeling....

rear right disaster (anyone like galvanised rear valances?) with some super thick bog...

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This will mean a replacement panel and rear valance, the rest i think i can fix...

Front left patch

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Rear left probs...

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Here's the plans with the flares... Trimmed the screw heads and started to fill in the holes. Plan is to paint these separately and then bolt on after...

Image

Image

Image

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 10:28 pm 
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1275cc
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Location: Yandina,Sunshine Coast,QLD
I reckon the those flairs will look heaps different from normal once finnished, good idea.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 10:32 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Adelaide... RADelaide!
Anyone out there got a spare clubby shell??? I need parts for this and well i'm really not impressed by spare panel prices :cry:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 9:00 am 
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1275cc
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Location: Burpengary, Queensland - Home of Tricky Performance Engineering
I cant see these pics!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 4:29 pm 
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1275cc
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I do like those wheels, any idea how much they weigh?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 6:41 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Fri Jun 17, 2005 10:31 am
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Location: Burpengary, Queensland - Home of Tricky Performance Engineering
Oh, there they are!!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 6:45 pm 
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848cc
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Location: Adelaide... RADelaide!
Unfortunately I don't know how much they weigh... after a lot of looking around they seem to be somewhat rare - which is good if you want an individual look, but not so good when you're trying to get hold of them! If they are still available in the coming weeks i'll probably convince myself to buy them. :)

I was thinking about buying some similar (with different stud pattern) second hand ones. Which you could easily strip, blast and powdercoat the centres - then machine new stud positions etc etc. Ultimately that would probably cost the same in the end anyway!!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 4:11 pm 
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1275cc
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Joined: Fri Oct 01, 2004 4:07 pm
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Location: sunbury victoria
that looks like a dream compared to my one and i spent about 500 bucks on panels all together.. that was a rear valance, two floor pans and a couple of other bits and pieces, the rest i made.. most shells around would have similar or worse rust

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