thanks guys, probs should have done it that way back when i took my engine out all those times...had access to a hoist and everything

neways back on topic... lol

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1968 Morris Mini Deluxe......sold
1992 Toyota Starlet GT EP82

I still think it is easier to just take out the engine/box through the top. Especially if you only have an engine crane!
Its only an advantage if you NEED the subframe out too IMHO

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-James.

Toyota 4EFTE Powered Minivan.
102 Kw @ The Front Wheels....Oh What a Feeling!

would hydrolastic suspension pose a problem?

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1968 Morris Mini Deluxe......sold
1992 Toyota Starlet GT EP82

With Mini engines, and dry suspension (never owned a hydro mini), I've found out the bottom is easiest. But mounting of the starlet engine is so easy. Two easy to get to upper bolts and a bottom bolt.

Have to go down to a fasterner shop to buy a few bits for mounting the engine, and that's about it. Might be in tommorow. Fingers crossed.

However, that is the say part, mounting of the radiator, intercooler, alternator and all that jazz comes next.

Carl, yes I will be wiring it, (with a lot of help form my dad). But I'm not worried. I labled most of it, just got to decide what to bin and what to keep. All the connector and sensors have one off connectors and can't be plugged into the wrong one - except the injectors, however I've labled these in order of 1-4.

Sleeka spares offered to wire it for me (at a cost of course ), as when I was buying some parts they mentioned a lot of people have problems with that aprt above all on engine conversions.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

Nope

OK.

Some push, some shove, some bend, some jack, some crane, some swearing, and even some help from mum!

And it finally got in!

I had to removed the equaliser shaft, and the rear mounting system completely to clear it and drop it in from above.

I've marked where it needs some massaging, particularly the passenger side inner guard and the fire wall infront of the clutch cylinder.

Just for proof, here's a pic.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

Can't really tell, but it looks like you didn't need to cut any of the drivers side inner guard to fit the subframe in. Or did you have to trim some?

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-Alan
I blame my dad for my love of minis. I think I was conceived in the back seat of one
I also blame my Dad for me being 6' 1" - not really the optimum height for driving a Mini.

With this frame the drivers side inner gaurd stays intact may have to cut to allow for alternator only. The engine sits in this postion determind by the eqalizer shaft so it has equal length drive shafts.
Tim how much clearance did the inlet manifold have? should have been about 5mm hence the massage

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4efte powered Clubman
supercharged 998 race car

Right where the clutch is there is about a 3mm gap. As you told explained to me it would need some modification. As you said, just cut it back a bit and weld a 45 degree flat plate. It won't be very visible in the end, and is required as the engine may move under load.

As for drivers side guard. No cutting was done at all. Although life would be easier if I cut it all off, but I won't. It was a bit squishy getting it all in there, but is not all that hard. Paint received some major pain though, but I'm going to repaint it all anyways, and protect it with rubber matting when the 2nd (and final) engine installation occurs. This is only to get everything to fit, then it all get taken appart and painted.

As Ben says a hole or similiar will need to but cut to fit an alternator. I think I might need to look at some pics of '77 Clubby Van's as from the few pics I've seen it appears he has done exactly what I am thinking of doing.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

You can see in the pic there is a gap where the clutch master goes, but not much.



You know, I was a little bit worried about this whole thing, as there was talk on Ausmini a while back about pre-fab frames with people argueing that a frmae built for another Mini won't fit your because they are all so different. With a subframe from Miniking modified to fit a shell that I've never seen and fitted into a body I purchased privately. All considered I think it fitted very well.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

yes i think im very worried about that sort of thing happenin to me !

ive found a shed to house my brick and stripped all the dash/wires and engine bay etc and found some nice bends in the wings..
at least i can cut and bend the inner wings without worrying about that sort of thing but i hope i dont end up having to cut into the fire wall / bulk head

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My engineer didn't have a problem with me cutting the inner guards, but if I was going to do it again I probably wouldn't cut as much as I did, but I wanted the cuts for the alt to look pretty standard, and I think I achieved it pretty well.
I've got a good 10mm gap between the intake mani and firewall, so I guess I got lucky there.
Slinky, PM me your email address and I'll send some pics through.

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-James.

Toyota 4EFTE Powered Minivan.
102 Kw @ The Front Wheels....Oh What a Feeling!

77 Clubby, PM sent.

dbr11k - You could avoid cutting the firewal completely if you mounted the engine a half inch forward again. However, I believe you would NEED a custom turbo manifold to fit as there is almost no clearance at the front either due to the waste gate actuator.

However I'll be cutting into the front panel (where the grille mounts) to open more space for a full width radiator.

Which reminds me. I've down to u pull it with a measuring tape and found a nice suitable radiator, I won't say too much more as there is only one there and I have to go back for it and don't want someone else buying it before me.

I'm going to compare the 'nice suitable radiator' to the Starlet one. I've found that the Starlet one will fit, and all electrical connectors and water hose connections are in the correct spot. However it's rather big leaving little room for a front mount intercooler and the piping for that and the air intake but we'll see.

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

Alright, a bit of an update here.

It's been 3 years since I bought the car - and 2 since I've updated - and it's finally starting to show some progress. Since the last update I have finished the alternator mounts, finished the body prep and welded and repaired alot of rust. I've mounted the radiator and intercooler, worked out the intercooler piping and had the engine in and out about 5 times and probably done much more than I can think of now.

Oh.... one more thing, I painted it yesterday.

Here's some proof:



The colour is shockwave mica, a Ford Falcon metallica blue pearl colour. I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out, my best painting yet (but I've still got a long way to go to get a 'show' finish). It's acrylic with a lot of clear coat and it dried pretty glossy (shinier than my last project Mini which I buffed the hell out of). I will have to cut it a fair bit to get the small blemishes out here and there, but this is expected for a home job.

As can be seen I painted the roof, but the finish is not so good due to the ridiculous amount of welding that has taken place to fix the holes that I could put my hand through. The roof was painted to rust protect and sort of see how it looks but with be covered in vinyl as per original style (just to be different) as the car is 1977 LS which was metallic blue with vinyl roof standard so I'm keeping that theme. I still need to paint some of the interior and inside surfaces of the doors, boot and bonnet, but ran out of paint . So I chose to paint all the outside surfaces with the same paint to ensure that it all looks the same.

I've got plenty more pics, but probably won't upload anymore until the beast is polished and looking good. Next job is the vinyl roof, roof and pillar wiring, headlining then windows in. Should be moving towards that over the coming weeks. At some stage I'll be deciding whether or not I mount the body kit as I'm still undecided.

So excited!

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1964 Morris 850, 1330 Supercharged - 81.8hp atws.
1975 Leyland Mini S 1100S powered - Nice and reliable.
1977 Leyland Mini LS - Project LS-T

Looking good! Getting paint on is a huge step forward especially for motovation!

_________________
-James.

Toyota 4EFTE Powered Minivan.
102 Kw @ The Front Wheels....Oh What a Feeling!