Hi Honk,

1. Go for it!!
2. I am of the opinion that widened floor is not required. The mini tunnel is 200mm wide, you could easliy run a 3" tailshft (75mm) down that as well as twin oval tubing exhaust pipes of 97mm x 42mm - I have done a mock up and this would fit nicely!!
3. It would be a fair bit of work to get the IRS to work - but the benefits would be enormous, and it would be fun!
4. I wouldnt bother putting a G13B head on the G16. It would increase compression (not good for turbocharging) and not give back too much in breathability of the engine (Being that the G16 is already 16 valve). It would however, make it more tunable to stop reversion and and enhance scavengeing if you went the Turbo route. My prefernce would be hi-flow the G16 head.
5. I think the AWD system for sale does have an LSD on the front gearbox, to give it Front-Rear split capabilites without locking up.
6. It would be fun.
7. It would be an absolute mauler!!

Regards,
Andrew

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"Not Speeding Officer..........Qualifying"

Gents, I sent the vendor a PM. $1200 as a start price.

I was under the impression that you needed some modifications to fit this to the G13B. I was searching around redline and there was mention about an adaptor plate. I'd just check that a)whether you need it and b)whether you get it.

What is this out of?
Is the gearing any different from the G13B in these boxes/diff?
Could you use suspension like this so the trumpets wouldn't be in the way?
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Mini-Rear-Suspen ... otohosting
How would you go getting this engineered?

And cant you just bid the $800 on ebay? There are no bids at the moment. So you might be able to just wait til the end and pick it up pretty cheap.

We were thinking of using it with the g16b it came from, so no adapter plates or modifications required. It is out of a suzuki swift 1.6litre AWD sedan version.
I think with the rear suspension, something like that would be suitable with custom made radius arms to allow for the driveshafts. Not sure about engineering though, you'd have to speak to an engineer about that one. But I think you'd want some extra structual support towards the rear end especially since you're putting a diff in the middle of it.



That's my plan . I have a feeling he may pull it down at the last minute if he doesn't get what he's asking though.. maybe.. i dunnow.

I would use as much of the suzuki stuff as possible. That way bracket for handbrake cables and what notmay be able to be used. You would really only know what would need to be done once get it under the car. I would use the coilovers also.

I believe Simon is using a method similar to that shown in the setup that you posted in the previous page Alex. It looks like it would will work well with minimal fuss.

Early Subaru (1800cc Leone) 4wd had a trailing arm rear end with diff etc. This could be easier to fit than a multi-link or strut rear end as found in most 4wd / AWD cars these days.
The Leone had torsion springs contained in the frame too so no need for coil-overs etc. Overall width and maybe distance between mount and wheel centre (wheelbase direction) would be the only problem I see. The wagon (only 4WD version we got here) had adjustable suspension height with a jack screw accessible from under the rear seat. Sedan had softer torsion springs that would be more suitable to the weight of a mini.
These things would have to be cheap as chips at the wreckers now.

Well I've just been on the phone to a couple of engineers.. One bloke in particular was very informative (but extremely strict!!) He said best bet would be as striped said use as much of the suzuki frame as possible, modifying it to fit the original mini subframe mounts. This would cause the least hassle.

To pass my ute conversion with the suzuki engine he wanted vented discs up front, rear discs (if the suzi 4wd sedan had them originally), a beam from the floor up through the pillar which the seat belt mounts are on through the roof and down to the floor through the other pillar, a full frame around the rear tray from the floors up, and he mentioned a rear strut bar maybe, as well as emmissions tests if I can't prove the engine is australian.. the list goes on He seems very thorough compared to the other engineers I spoke to, but most of what he said is fair enough! Looks like I better get off ausmini and get back to working on it.. I'll get some pics up soon if anyones interested.

We're ALL interested. Pics please!

There are more knowledgeable people on here in this area, but on instinct, I would be getting a second opinion.

This fella sounds over the top....examples, why vented rotors?? why disks on the rear when there is no weight to speak of?? Is he going to mandate wearing a helmet once you install the roll hoop/stiffener thingamey

It sounds like he has no idea about the inherent strength in a Mini body

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"Show me the Mini!"

See the cheeky bugger has upped the starting price to $1000.

Yeah he seemed a bit over the top to me! I would have thought the seat belt mounts would retain their strength by the panel at the rear of the cabin, the reinforcement running from floor to floor around the body seems a bit much.

He seemed very convinced that it required vented rotors up the front. I believe that the law is if the car the engine is coming out of has 4 discs, then I will require 4 discs. So rear discs are a maybe, depending on if the 4wd swift had them originally.

I don't think he knows a huge deal about mini's, so these were general guidelines for a panel van to ute conversion. I don't think I'll go with him to get the certificate, but he was helpful anyway.

The standard Gti came out with 4 wheel disc brakes.

Thats the problem Honk.

The RTA puts out s set of guidelines which are open to interpretation.

Unfortunately, you then run foul of engineers who go from the practical to the bloody ridiculous!!

I would get a second opinion. I went through 3 engineers till I found my current guy. With my engineer, I submitted a methodologie statement on how we were going to undertake the 4EFTE conversions that we have done (3 now) and he was so impressed he let us have a good deal of latitude with the design of it.

Now, we have built an element of trust with him, so he now looks favourably on our next 'evolutionary' conversion with a more open frame of mind, knowing we wont do anything to compromise safety etc.

You need to get an engineer that you feel conmfortable with and have a rapport with.

Regards,
Tricky

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"Not Speeding Officer..........Qualifying"

Bla bla bla EVO CONVERSION bla bla bla....

Is there something you're not telling us?

Yep I've still got a few engineers on my list to call. Haha an evo mini would be nice!

I've just been doing some reading about putting the 4wd g16b into the mini, apparently the 4wd gearbox isn't too easy to put in.. It requires some large bulk head modifications to get the gearbox to fit