Thanks for the info Ben.

It just may be the injectors since I heard it from that vicinity.

I havent progressed a lot with the drive shafts. What I plan to do is to cut each of the ends I need from the starlet & mini shafts and put a sleeve over both of them with a bunch of grub screws and then actually put it in the car. I will then move the suspension etc to max travel etc and determine the appropriate length that way. Then i'll get a new set made. I'll try'n do it my self and see how I go.. have to learn sometime .. but probably expect a call from me if I do stuff it up

Cheers!

ok boys and girls..

time for an update!... I DROVE IT TODAY!!! YAAY!!
holy moly.. I've never experienced so much power in my mini.. franky.. it scared the crap out of me!
to go from drivng nothing but a 998cc powered mini with no more mods than a set of extractors, this thing is unreal.
The engine is extremely composed when just driving softly.. much more than the mini engine but when you put the foot down ( and I didn't even dare floor it). the sheer G's..
The sound of the turbo spooling up is just freakin awesome!

The first drive was with my dad.. he was just as excited as me.. he was going on and on about whether this was all worth it.. but when it actually hit boost.. he just went quiet and went kind of pale.. and it was noticable even though he is brown skinned!! did say too much after that but there was a smile on his face though!

i'll start from the beginnig..

Got the drive shafts on Tuesday.. they looked sweet.. made brand new from billet 4340 steel. The guy ( Slider Engineering) did a very nice job indeed.
Did up all the boots etc that night itself but only managed to fit up the shafts and hubs and brakes etc.. only thing left to do was bleeding the system.

Today I bled the system, cleaned the inside of the car, slapped on the number plates ( rego ran out about 1 1/2 years ago but i had to have something! ) and off we went!.. just avoided the main roads and kept to the back streets
Just as we pulled into the house again.. the clutch shat itself.. couldn't change gears..
popped the hood and guess what.. I had forgotten to tighten the hose coming into the slave! DOH!
I'm so happy this is the only problem that popped up. will fix it tomorrow ( engine bay was too hot to put my hand in that tight spot)

One other thing happened.. when trying to one of the 3 nipples on the metro brakes, one actually sheared off! .. I guess it was seized... thankfully it was sealed... so I wasn;t able to bleed the system properly.. the brake pedal was not the best
I'll have to drill this thing and tap it out now and put a new one in. Does anyone know what kind of thread it is on these nipples???

Just thought I'd share my happy and momentous occasion with you guys.. after 1 year and 4 months, I drove my mini again..
here is a picture of the finished engine bay.. decided to go for the FMIC route.. seems to be working very well. Not extremely happy with the FMIC piping arrangement.. will have to look into that later on

Cheers
Pubs

Sounds awesome mate......get those little things sorted and whack some rego on it......i wanna go for a spin

_________________
1962 Morris 850.....with a 1310

1998 Toyota starlet.....161.1hp atw

Thats awesome news! Congratulations.
And excellent effort on getting it done in such a short time as well.

Cheers

Madmorrie

Yay another starleto mini complete! looks great too very clean and factory looking. good work!

anymore pics??

_________________

1968 Morris Mini Deluxe......sold
1992 Toyota Starlet GT EP82

Great to here Pubs. How much longer until you have it officially on the road?

Also what type of radiator are you using? It seems to fit really nice.

Cheers,
Isaac

Good to hear you have it up and running Pubs I will have to come and have a look next time I go into adelaide. Just have to sort the engineering out for the rego.

_________________
4efte powered Clubman
supercharged 998 race car

Thanks for the comments boys..

The whole idea was to keep it looking stock as possible..not like it was jammed in there

The radiator is a ebay one.. a honda civic aluminium one.. working well so far

Lots more pics to come.. couldnt take too many last night cuz the flash in my camera was not powerful enough.. I'll take some more when there is some day light. The front of the car looks pretty mean I must say...

Next major mod is a new set of minilites with yoko semi slicks!

Going to sort out the clutch today and bleed it again.

Will take off the brake caliper and remove the broken nipple tomorrow or during the weekend

My Engineer told me that for the brake bias to work properly, i must change the rear brake pistons to something with smaller bores.. otherwise there is too much bias to the rear which ends up spinning the car in the cornering brake situation any comments on this one? can I just get away with fitting a brake pressure limiting valve??

Cheers fellas

It all sounds damn fine but I cant see the pics in this thread... but can in other threads, what the f**k have I done wrong?? Help!!!
I wanna see them

_________________
Motivate me to get this done... back in Sydney again...

Well done

Record time too

You will need smaller rear wheel cylinders as fitted to cars with disc brakes 3/8 rear wheel cylinders they are. You'll need to drill a hole in the backing plate for them to fit as the locating dowel is on the other side.

Fitting them is a must - once you brake hard and the rear wheels lock up you will be passenger - not fun at the speeds you'll likely to be doing

_________________

Starlet Conversion:
http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15484

I agree with this statement, almost swapping ends on bitumen at 110KMH is not funny, as I found out.
Standard rear cylinders on Oz Minis are 3/4", you need to fit Cooper S ones. They are 5/8".
You will need to redrill the dowel pin holes in the backplate to suit, as S cylinders have these dowels in a different position.

_________________
DrMini- 1970 wasaMatic 1360, Mk1S crank, 86.6HP (ATW) =~125 @ crank, 45 Dellorto (38 chokes), RE282 sprint cam, 1.5 rockers, 11.0:1 C/R.

Thanks for the valuable information fellas.

yes.. it wuoldn't be nice to spin around at 110 km/h

I'll get these as soon as possible.. will give me a chance to clean up the inside of the drums anyhow!

will keep everyone updated on the progress

Cheers

Pubs

can i just ad to the above.
If you have put so much time and effort into the front.
You can atleast put a bit more money and time into the rear also
Change the cylinders to 5/8 is a must and I would also renew the drums and shoes so you know you will not have to touch then other than adjusting them and its a great piece of mind, I did for my wifes the other weekend

Maybe the springs , handbrake cable and adjusters $300-350 tops and 3 hours to change the lot and the rear is done

_________________
Stop Licking the Dog...I Don't Care Who Started It

thanks for the advice,

i rebuilt the back about 3 years ago including phasing the drums and fitting brand new shoes. I guess I'll see the general state of it all when I take it apart.. getting 5/8 pistons tomorrow so they can go in during the weekend

Sorted out the broken nipple too.. it was totally stuffed.. so much rust between the threads. I drilled the lot out. tapped a new thread and put a copper alloy bolt with a copper washer. Bleeding would be a little bit of a crap but i'll survive

here is another pic of the front.. the rest of it all looks like a normal mini
the 2" IC piping looks kinda puny.. I plan to put 2.5" on the exit side of the Intercooler and another 2.5" bend just before the IC to keep things symmetrical...
There are too many bends with the plumbing at the moment

I'm thinking of actually spray painting two white stripes on the IC as well to match bonnet so it looks continuous.. any comments on this??








Thanks guys

Show us your dash..., ah ha ha, sometimes when i'm drunk i think i'm funny

_________________
Daniel the concreter (for now)
1974 mini 1100, fully sick rims, disk brakes, new paint, air conditioning, cruise control,v-tech... wishful thinking