From my understanding, all ICV's must have there chassis' torsion tested for rigidity. I'm no expert, but the Z-cars chassis may be reasonably stiff but from the pics it doesn't seem like it would meet the requirements. Cars like lotus 7 clubman kits barely meet requirements and they have triangulation and tubes everywhere.

It would be worthwhile getting this info from Z-cars before buying the kit.

Another thing is that as the higher number of engine cylinders you have, the higher rigidity is required.

Steve

If you havent seen their videos which are on their websites and only sneak previews, about so many inchs from the cross member to the rear swab, bulk head and rear parcel shelf is removed and from there the zcar kit frame is then slided into the mini shell and then bolted in numerous areas.

If its going to be near impossible to engineer for road use I will only use it for racing and for racing purposes what do I need to be aware of for such moddification, as for racing it will only be for club super sprints etc.

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Roundies Rule !!!

I'm certainly not trying to discourage you but thats one hell of an expense to go to for a race only car. I'm sure you could have the same thing built here for MUCH less if it was only racing you wanted to do. Heck I would do a Matty Read is doing and mount two R1 motors in two mini subframes. Knock up a 'spaceframe' to hold it all together, get a seat, fuel tank and Bob's your mother's brother.

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But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.

ive been away for the last week but just logged on and seen this and thought id add my 2c... im currently trying to rear engine my mini with the 4EFTE and STILL waiting from qld transport for their thoughts but i talked to an engineer and he said that having the door bars on the rollcage, unless they have been on the car before a certain date, cant be considered road legal. (there was a post on this somewhere on here too i think). and since the zcars vtec design had the door bars in it they couldnt be removed without severly weakening the design..... so i ended up designing my own rear subrframe which doesnt need the front hoop or side bars which has the thumbs up from engineer but waiting for qld transport now . Cant rememebr where i was going with this but basically you cant get roadworthy for any of the zcars kits cause of the front hoop and the door bars. BUT if you;re not going for road legal then just completely ignore everything ive said and do it cause zcars make fantastic kits

cheers, goffy

Just spoke to an old friend, he says people have reported that with the zcars kit the shell ends up flexing and warping so that has turned me off now, hmmm, really would like rear wheel drive mini, back to brain storming what I like and perhaps might have to stick with FWD.

Just another question, from what I have read on these forums that the maximum size in CC for a N/A mini can go is 2L or 1.8L and 1.6L Forced induction? Please correct me as I have always thought that it was 1.3L forced and 1.6 N/A.

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Roundies Rule !!!

At the moment im currently putting a 4wd turbo charged 1.6l suzi swift engine with the dohc gti head, into a mini ute. Engine has been blueprinted and rebuilt.. I've got all the rear diff and everything. It needs the tailshaft shortened and driveshafts made.. front subframe is half done, rear subframe will be a front one modified to fit in the back.. diff should sit nicely in it. Engineers have told me it should be fine, I think as long as it's over about ~730kgs then it should be allowed. I'm aiming for easily over 200hp at the wheels..

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Looking for mini k liftup handle doors. pm me...

Didn't the suzi 4wd come with a rear subframe of sorts? Surely that would be easier to adapt? Will that subframe I sold you work with the bigger 4wd gearbox?

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But he's thriving and striving and hugging the turns.